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Use the driver side battery. The - is direct to ground, the + is through charge cable to alternator. You measure voltage in parallel. The driver side battery is preferred.
All better now! New alternator and batteries are in. I got the batteries replaced under warranty as my father-in-law was concerned about the one battery that had run down to being completely flat, so we replaced them both. Serial numbers on new batts are within a few digits of each other meaning they are from the same production date/run. Getting ~14.6v on the battery posts now when it's running!
I don't know about ford, but the wife's dodge measures anywhere from 14.2 to 15.9 depending on how low the batteries are. The service manual states you can see as much as 16.4 vdc. I have never seen it go that high, but for dodge, it's within the norm, so I assume it is similar for ford as well.
If by a gauge on the instrument panel, I wouldn't think it hugely accurate.
If, however, it is in a procedure in their maintenance manual, measured by an accurate meter, I find it unusual.
Lead/acid batteries shouldn't see that high voltage for any period of time, as it causes excessive gassing, with the resultant loss of electrolyte.
OTOH, they may have a variably-excited field, which COULD do that.
Our trucks (we ARE talking about our trucks, aren't we?) have a fixed set point of 14.4 volts. They are identified by a gray-on-gray (gray cover on gray body) regulator.
If by a gauge on the instrument panel, I wouldn't think it hugely accurate.
If, however, it is in a procedure in their maintenance manual, measured by an accurate meter, I find it unusual.
Lead/acid batteries shouldn't see that high voltage for any period of time, as it causes excessive gassing, with the resultant loss of electrolyte.
OTOH, they may have a variably-excited field, which COULD do that.
Our trucks (we ARE talking about our trucks, aren't we?) have a fixed set point of 14.4 volts. They are identified by a gray-on-gray (gray cover on gray body) regulator.
Pop
You're exactly right on all points. The voltage set on the regulators is actually 14.6 but usually 14.4 is the highest seen in vehicle unless you're running a beefed up alternator that is capable of pushing higher amperage than the stock 110 amp unit.
Also to comment on the reman vs new thing. I might be a little biased here since I run a shop that does alternator and starter remanufacturing, but I would take the reman over new any day of the week. I could show you guys some of the utter garbage coming from china that is put in these new units, and it's just depressing. The failure rate on the new ones is actually pretty high, so at the end of the day, a quality reman is the better option, even if it sometimes costs a few extra bucks. It's worth the peace of mind.
With that said, some of the reman stuff can be crap as well. NAPA units, USA industries and the like come to mind, I've seen some laughable things in their units.
The highest "set point" I have ever seen for an alternator is 14.7 volts. More typically they are 14.4.
If you are seeing 16 volts anywhere (measured with your cal'd Fluke), something's just wrong!
Maybe time to check the ground point integrity for your regulator inside that alternator, 'cause it seems to be floating up.
Pop
Only time I've seen more than 14.6V on a Ford was a faulty regulator, and it was spiking to 16.5V. This was with a non-cal'd meter. I agree that 14.4 is the correct voltage, but up to 16V is (technically) acceptable.
14.6V on the posts will lose some power before it gets to the usage point due to the resistance of the connections in between.
Also to comment on the reman vs new thing. I might be a little biased here since I run a shop that does alternator and starter remanufacturing, but I would take the reman over new any day of the week. I could show you guys some of the utter garbage coming from china that is put in these new units, and it's just depressing. The failure rate on the new ones is actually pretty high, so at the end of the day, a quality reman is the better option, even if it sometimes costs a few extra bucks. It's worth the peace of mind.
With that said, some of the reman stuff can be crap as well. NAPA units, USA industries and the like come to mind, I've seen some laughable things in their units.
AMEN!! You couldn't have given better advice to these guys!
Find a quality local rebuilder, and use HIM to make your OEM units like new again!
Now, Chris, want to comment on the Mitsu PLGR versus Nippondenso OSGR starter debate, and NOT those Chinese units, but the OEMs, and the quality rebuilds thereof?
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