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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

brake woes...

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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #1  
351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4
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brake woes...

ive got a problem. the brake pedal travels about 2 inches before any firmness is reached then it still doesnt stop the truck well at all.

this is after ive taken all four corners apart and cleaned up the drums shoes, and took the wheel cylinders apart and made sure they were clean and good.

i bled the brakes(a couple times), master, adjusted the rears, all that. still doesnt do much.

so,,, am i missing something here? its not blowing fluid out anywhere.

could the master cylinder be bad?

its getting frustrating after playing with it for days and not getting any better.....
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 12:39 PM
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MIKES 68 F100's Avatar
MIKES 68 F100
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From: Antelope Valley ,CA
drum or disks ?
soft pedal normally means air in the lines , i use a power bleeder (hand pump type )
start at passengers rear then drivers rear moving closer to master cylinder .
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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Might be a master cylinder issue if it won't build any pressure after pushing it 2".

Might want to visually inspect for fluid at all for corners, have someone push the pedal and you watch to see that fluid is coming out as soon as the pedal starts down.

Could just be a touch of air still in the line somewhere.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:08 PM
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OP's "About Me" profile sez 1971 F100 which would not have come with disc brakes originally, as 1973 was the first year F100's (2WD) came with discs.

But, the OP's truck does have a brake pressure differential proportioning valve, as all 1967 and later FoMoCo vehicles w/dual master cylinders came with one.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4
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oops, yes they are drums and it is a 71.
i might try the power bleeder.
the fronts bleed out pretty good, but the rears take a second to push fluid out. but i can hear them actuating right away..... maybe i just need to keep going.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Open a rear bleeder and give it a few minutes to try gravity bleeding. Should start to seep out. Do one side then the other.

This is what I use to bleed brakes. Works really well for one person.


Loosen bleeder, slip on hose, then pump brakes a few times(til the cup is near full). Close bleeder and refill master cylinder. Go to next wheel.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #7  
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i talked to the brakes instructor at the tech school and he suspected a bad master cylinder. (ive been suspecting it too)
so i bought a reman for $16 and ill be putting that on this afternoon. hopefully that will resolve the issue.
worst case it doesnt and i have a new master with a better lid. (mine is close to rusted out)
 
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