It was a very hot topic many years ago.

Do a quick search and when you find ernesteugene, you'll know you're in the right thread.

Stewart

EDIT: These will get you started:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5363863
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post5959149
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6206183

 

I think this was discussed last fall??

 

No doubt. It seems to get discussed every-so-often on a regular basis.

But to get to the original conclusion on this topic, you have to go back a few years to see where ernesteugene proved routing the CCV to the exhaust pressurises the crankcase.

Stewart

 

BUT there are people that have it ran to their exhaust for many thousands of miles with no obvious ill effects...

Our friend Andy is one of them

 

ErnieGene kept claiming "seals could blow" and "corrosive gasses" will be forced back to the valve cover. Neither have occurred in the 150,000 miles mine has been run to the exhaust. That guy sure suffered from paralysis by analysis!

 

Yep, I know. And if you wanna take that chance, be my guest!

There are those who have run ELC in their non-upgraded E99 rigs for years too.

I can't remember what problem you were having with your truck a while back when we were talking (mighta been when you were doing your fan clutch) but I suggested it might possibly be related to your routing of the CCV to your exhaust.

You might be a lucky one, or the tick, tick, tick of the clock might be getting louder!

I hope not, but I won't chance it on my rig.

Stewart

 

I like the way that you and BDK(Ed) have made you catch cans, can you give some info, on your changes that you made, such as can size, mounting hardware, fittings, etc.. Thanks

 

Big props go to Ed, for all the info of this build came from him. Thanks Ed.

The parts I acquired came from Home Depot and True Value hardware store.

(6") of 3" ABS pipe
(2) 3" Tom-Kap ABS cleanout adapters
3/4" hose to hose straight connector
3/4" hose to hose 90* connector
(2) 3/4" male adapters
1/8" ball valve
1/8" threaded nipple
Scotchbrite SS pads (3 pack)
1/8"x 1 1/2" galvinized nipple
screen repair
JB Weld (Marine)
Red RTV silicone
(1') 3/4" heater hose
(2') 3/4" clear braided vinyl tubing
4' 3/8" vinyl tubing
(8) 3/8"x 7/8" hose clamps
(2) 5/8" hose clamps
#4-1/0 heat shrink
SS Strap
(2) nylon cable clips

Cost me about $70 for all the parts.





There's pics of the build in my picture album.

I didn't change much from Ed's info posts, but, I shrunk the heatshrink over the strap. I ended up not using the L brackets, but instead mounted the strap to the firewall with self tapping screws. Catchcan would slide down through strap, so, I slid strap down as far as I could, then tapped a screw through the strap and into the catchcan (short screw to just pierce the can).

There you go T.Banning. Have fun with it.

 

Thank you sir, this will be a big help. So you actually just shot the plumber strap to the firewall, and then shot screws thru the strap into the can to hold it?

 

I'm sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner on this subject. But I'll try to give some insight into what I used and what I would change when I get around to building a 2.0 version.

I made it out of 2 1/2" pvc, copper scrub pads for media inside, pcv epoxy (Not pvc glue), plastic hose barb fittings and I used a metal pipe plug to tap the treads in the pcv tube (epoxied the fittings too) and a ball valve with 1/4" compression fitting on the bottom for a drain. The hose going to the doghouse is a heater hose that was premolded. I have no idea what the app was for. I have a box with molded hoses I keep for the what if's. Got lucky there since it looks like it belongs there. Also I made it a point to make sure the lower hose on the catch can was higher then the doghouse incase the can ever got to full it would drain back into the doghouse. IF the lower hose is lower than the doghouse the can could get full and act as a blockage for the ccv and that is when bad things can happen. The mount I made out of some scrap metal and a exhaust wrap wire tie. Mind you what I have works but it could work better.

The 2.0 version will be made out of 3" pvc, stainless steel scrub pads and I will make a plate that goes inside the catch can that will be mounted just below the upper hose to act as a deflector/ baffle for the oil vapors before leaving the can. The plate/ baffle design is a little more to it than one might think. You can google CCV catch cans with baffle designs and see there are many different ways to make and mount the plate baffles. Which works best "At this point in time we just don't know?"

I think running a ccv to exhaust is a great idea on a drag race gasser but on a diesel that has a 4" or 5" exhaust pipe and the engine only is turning 3100 rpms at best and operates around 2000rpms it will NOT work the way a ccv to exhaust is designed to work. The facts support this statement. Now if you are running a sled puller that makes 60psi of boost and are running 3500rpm's all the time and the exhaust fitting is placed within 20" ( not sure of the exact measuement, but close to the outlet of the turbo) then a ccv to exhaust is suited for that app.

Rich /r**r Thank you for putting together the list and a great photos of the parts.
You did a great job on your's!!!

 

Updated link for the Hypro catch can Justin purchased. Not very expensive at all, and I believe I would personally go with the version which has the 80 mesh screen and stuff a stainless pot scrubber inside it to make sure to capture as much oil as possible without restricting flow through it.

50 mesh version
Hypro® 1 in. Polypropylene Line Strainer with 50 Mesh Stainless Steel Screen - Tractor Supply Co.

80 mesh version
Hypro® 1 in. Polypropylene Line Strainer with 80 Mesh Stainless Steel Screen - Tractor Supply Co.

 

Now you've got me wondering if that strainer would work as a fuel pre-filter. Hmmm.

 

I was wondering the same thing, but it is designed for use in a water-borne chemical feeder/sprayer, and I sort of doubt that it would have long-term reliability in diesel fuel. It really depends on which grades of plastics and elastomers are being used.

There is a Tractor Supply Company store right across the road from where I'll be staying in Selma the next couple of nights, so I might just try to get over there before they close to see if I can lay my hands on one and identify which plastic grades are used.

 

Of all the home built CCV catch cans I've seen write ups for in online forums so far, I like the location of Ed's (BadDogKuzz) CCV setup, that Rich (r**r) inventoried above. As they say in real estate: Location, Location, Location.

Ed's catch can is located under the hood, within the warm engine compartment, as opposed to outside of the engine compartment, underneath the truck on the frame rail. While I don't live in freezing cold climates, I often travel to them for work, and I marvel at how icicles form under vehicles in severe cold weather!

What blows out of the CCV breather is more than just oil aerosol particles that come from the mechanical shearing of oil by the rotating and reciprocating assemblies in the engine and the boiling of oil off of the surfaces of hot pistons and cylinders. The blowby is also the combustion gases themselves that leak by the piston rings.

Therefore, CCV blow-by is a cocktail mixture of several distinct gaseous, liquid, and particulate substances that are not necessarily compatible at all temperatures. Some of the gasses are carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dioxide, aldehydes, gaseous hydro-carbons, and WATER VAPOR. The water vapor is shouted out as it is a big deal here when it comes to temperature changes.

When a catch can is located under the truck, it is exposed to the direct brutal attack of freezing cold air, that is exacerbated by the wind chill effect of driving in severely cold weather. This freezing air can make the frame mounted CCV catch can absorb the heat out of the crankcase gas cocktail flowing through it. As the catch can is cooled to ambient temperatures in still air, and perhaps slightly below ambient in wind chill effect, the oil mist and water vapor particles traveling through the CCV system may coalesce against the cold interior surfaces of the CCV canister.

This coalescence introduces microscopic particles of oil and water to each other. When they mix, an emulsification of the two liquids occurs. This emulsification turns the two particles into a creamy gelatinous sludge. The emulsion slowly builds up as cold air continually cools the canister and the process repeats itself and collects to a point where a restriction might occur causing crankcase pressures to rise. Even a very slight increase in crankcase pressure, at only 1 PSI, can cause big problems in seals throughout the engine.

So while the under the truck crankcase catch cans can work well forever for some folks, they may not work well for everyone, depending on the climate where the truck is operated. I think it is best to design a CCV system that is capable of withstanding ALL climates, to reduce the number of things to have to think about when traveling away from home.

The above reasoning is only one of several reasons why I like Ed's firewall mounting location better than many of the frame mounted locations I have seen. There are other reasons as well, but this post is already too long as it is.

Here is a pic of the professionally designed CCV filtration system on my truck, where the engine itself is the "catch can."

 

Mine just survived winter in northern Colorado, -20ish, 0 issues. Mounted under the truck. Just sayin.
Built mine similar to Guzzle's, closed system.