Should be about eight big ol' holes in the block.

BTW: if the rest was "trashed," the crank would still be worth keeping if it was salvageable. You can bore out a smaller block.

 

The reason I ask if it is "hole ", my brother borrowed my truck once! I had to go pick him up and what was left of my motor on the side of a toll road !!! His girlfriend ( who was a drunk !and a dumb b with a itch) wanted to know what the short lever on the floor did? He told her it is to engage the four wheel drive ! So she wanted to see what would happen if she moved it ! She kicked in to gear at 80 mph !!!! she was not there by the time I got there! I had to beat in the oil pan in so I could remove it from the frame ( it looked like a jiffy pop !!) there was a biggg hole it the side of the block where the piston rod came through !!

 

I called around to see about parts for a 332 motor I was thinking of troughing in my truck the guys I talked to thought that it would not be a good fit will the emount of wight I plan on pulling ! It could by doen put at a hefty price. I think I m going back to a diesel swop
This is they amount of space from the fire wall to the cross support

This is the space from the back of the back of the radiator to the fire wall. I can add about 5" to that to the back of the tunnel . Do these numbers make sense ? What size diesel motor can fit in my engine bay( how long of a motor can I get in there.

 

This from the front of the fan to the fire wall

 

4-71T detroit diesel with a 13 speed trans!!

 

Nice looking truck. A couple things I see though. It does not have air brakes on it. That is a vacuum control, and the rears are activated by the lever on the column. They are controlled only by vacuum, just like air, but opposite. I have the same thing on my '55 F-750. It's a tandem conversion, not uncommon to have an aftermarket tag set-up installed. My '55 F-750 is the exact same way. It looks really nice, and I can see tons of potential for future use. That kind of stuff is what I like about the big trucks from back then. You can run hydraulic brakes on that truck, and don't need anything on the tag. You could keep it just the way it is, and the little Y-block would turn it just fine. Start adding a second drive axle, and changing tire diameter, and the engine may not be up to the task of moving all that very well.

 

Thanks for the input ! I m hoping in the next week or to to have some money to put in to her,I m going to drive it the way it is for now! Put a bigger carb on it and intake , door seals( trying to keep the doors from opening when I go around corners ) tail lights, got some brake gremlins . Needs a new master cylinder . Thinking of getting some tires and rims for the back tag it has 10x22's on it now

 

Doesn't really need a bigger carb. These aren't high rpm power houses. They make torque, which is what they need. Door seals are always a plus. They'll keep the pressure on the latch, right where it needs to be. 20's would be ideal for the thing. Running some 7.50 20's would be the best combo. Too bad you're so far away, I just killed an older Ford chassis motorhome that had 6-hole budd wheels, and 4 nearly new tires on its rear axle.

 

I finally got to work on my truck!
The weather today was amazing
I removed what was left of the old lift gate be cutting the back of the frame.
I removed my master cylinder . Man there is a lot of brake lines going to it!
I also removed the driveshaft , the med shaft bearing was bad! Man that bearing did not want to come off for anything !!

 

Thanks for sharing the pictures. Looks like someone forgot that center bearing grease fitting a long time ago.

 

I removed the big gas tank and the side box too


I removed the med mud flap between the rear tires
Pulled all the old wire from the back all the way to the wire harness
Remove the power led to the old lift too
Took out the crap out of the cab and took the old firewall pad

 

I had two pistons with low compression and the carb is not the smoothest runner so I flooded the carb with sea foam and I m going to let it seat for a why ell to see if that cleans it out . If not i ll get the carb rebuilt

 

I thought I had a booster lined up for my truck. Just before truck fest I found one but I through a fan blade trough my radiator on my 31 so I put what I had $ into fixing the 31.
Now I have been busting my a$$ at work so now I can get my 56 rolling . Problem is the place that could get my booster now says they can t find it !!
My question is will a booster for a f100 work in my f600?
I called mid fifty today and the girls had no idea! Can some one please help?
I found the mid shift bearing

 

Just a note; if you do find by adding another axle the brakes are not really up to it, you can go to a F900 also a two bolt but has a 1 3/4 bore, I just did one with Napa guts.

 

No sir, not aftermarket these Bendix units were used on the early systems. Look carefully at the pic. This is the style you want. Notice the little 'filler dipstick plug', these have their own oil supply. Most others you going to have to plump
an oil pressure line (THAT MUST BE RESTRICTED) to around 10-15 lbs oil press, then you have to drill a hole in a valve cover for the return oil. I have seen a few guys that have used a typical York A/C compressor that worked well but you have to use a electric pressure switch to cycle it. A/C have their own oil and no water lines to plumb.

I have the same exact truck and its even yellow too.........same compressor too but mines got "Master Guide" power steering