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Key ON. That's the whole point. How much is the voltage dropping between the two big terminals while it's energized? That's the thing we're trying to find out.
checked it out, with the switch on and my voltmeter on VAC i think it was, only setting i could get to read anything that sounded right, i had .08 and .07. sound right?
Wasn't really positive on which setting to have it..
One thing i forgot to mention is Before i would jujmper it from the hot wire on the STARTER relay mounted on the fender wall, i tried that this time and it wouldn't do it, i got it to do it once but then it wouldn't anymore, it would click on from the batery hot post but not from the starter relay anymore, that couldn't cause the gp relay to not click on could it? i mean it gets power direct from the battery?
The one with the big red wire running to it. the big post on the bottom of the relay. it used to work every time to jump power to the gp relay but now it dont work except for once.
the GP relay should have constant batt voltage to one of the large posts... the other large post is the wires going to the GPs.. the small posts are from the controler..one is ground, and one is only hot when the controler wants the glows on...the relay can be replaced if bad, part#GPR109...the other wires have to do with power to controler,and wait to start light.ect
well. then i got no clue. i'll do another volt test the RIGHT way on the gp relay but it still clicks over when getting power from the battery hot post, i always thought that meant the relay was good. but maybe not.
Well i have one more question guys, if this gp relay is shot, to wire up a push button i would need a new relay, yes?
If i get a new relay, and something further up the line was shot like the controller, and i wanted to wire up a push button, i would tap into a fuse and run a wire from there to the push button, then from the other post, run a wire out to the purple wire's post on the relay. yes? If i did that, which fuse would yall recommend i tap into, and i have a wire that was previously used for this application on another truck that wasn't mine, it is shorter and would work for the fuse to button purpose, BUT it has an inline fuse, would that be okay even though i'm drawing power from a fuse already? not an electrician guys if you couldn't tell x:
IF the relay is bad it may close (click) when it is saposed too, but not energize the glows..if so replace it... to test it use test light touch the post that go's to glows and have some one turn the key...the test light will come on just like the wait to start light...if relay is good...if no click...and no wait to start light..or it go's out right away with out energizing the glows, the controler maybe bad...check all conections b for u spend mony...to in stall push buttion...find Accessery post in fuse box or suitatble power hot with key on...install 5amp fuse inline... run to push button.. then to the small post, that is not grounded on gp relay this will operate relay, when pushed..DANGER WILL MELT TIPS OFF GLOWS IF HELD ON TO LONG!!!!!!!