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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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GP(R) Testing

Been hard-starting and romping this winter with some black smoke.

An ohm test from the GPR to Ground measured 7.11. I think a healthy system should measure between 8-9, right?

What's my next step? Ohm test at the valve cover harness?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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I believe the black smoke is pointing away from GP's or GPR. Can't offer much more than that.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
Been hard-starting and romping this winter with some black smoke.

An ohm test from the GPR to Ground measured 7.11. I think a healthy system should measure between 8-9, right?

What's my next step? Ohm test at the valve cover harness?
I would check for 12v going to the GPs rather than ringing the GPR out. Bad GPs and/or GPR usually results in white smoke. I replaced all my GPs, UVCH, and GPR with the Stancor from Mouser. I still get the romp romp if I don't plug in and it's in the teens.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by F250_
I believe the black smoke is pointing away from GP's or GPR. Can't offer much more than that.
I'm pretty sure the GPR works, I can see the voltage drop when it's energized.

If I'm plugged in, everything's smooth - no issues.
If I'm not, and it's below 25-30, I get the Romp Romp, white smoke - white smoke - white smoke - grey smoke - grey smoke - black smoke - black smoke - black smoke - smooth idle, no smoke.

140k on the clock, maybe a few GP's are toast and some injector o-rings are worn?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 01PS
I would check for 12v going to the GPs rather than ringing the GPR out. Bad GPs and/or GPR usually results in white smoke. I replaced all my GPs, UVCH, and GPR with the Stancor from Mouser. I still get the romp romp if I don't plug in and it's in the teens.
How do I check for 12v to the GPs? I assume at the VCH?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
I'm pretty sure the GPR works, I can see the voltage drop when it's energized.

If I'm plugged in, everything's smooth - no issues.
If I'm not, and it's below 25-30, I get the Romp Romp, white smoke - white smoke - white smoke - grey smoke - grey smoke - black smoke - black smoke - black smoke - smooth idle, no smoke.

140k on the clock, maybe a few GP's are toast and some injector o-rings are worn?
Just because the GPR is energized doesn't mean the contacts are passing the proper voltage to the GPs. You need to check the GPR output terminal for voltage.

How long are you letting the GPs heat up before you try to start?

Once it gets down to freezing temps I wait between 20 and 40 seconds before starting. The caolder it is the longer I wait, but never have waited longer than 60 seconds even in the single digit temps.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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I'm certainly waiting long enough - maybe 30-40 seconds. If it's really cold, I'll wait 30-40 then cycle the key and wait another 10-20. Usually on those days, it'll try to romp, but I can stop it with a (very) little pedal manipulation.

How do I check for proper voltage transmission?
(I'm very electrically and mechanically inclined)
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
How do I check for proper voltage transmission?
(I'm very electrically and mechanically inclined)
While GPR is operated check terminal 4 for voltage.



My GPR would operate but not pass voltage because the contacts looked like this.

 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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Sounds good. I'll report back with the results.

So, while the GPR can draw voltage from the battery, it still may not be passing current to the GPs? I guess I thought that if the voltage dropped while the GPR is energized, it was passing current.


Thanks
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
Sounds good. I'll report back with the results.

So, while the GPR can draw voltage from the battery, it still may not be passing current to the GPs? I guess I thought that if the voltage dropped while the GPR is energized, it was passing current.


Thanks
You are right but check to be sure.

Assumptions could have you chasing your tail.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD

Assumptions could have you chasing your tail.
Story of my life...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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best way to check GP function is with an AMP guage. If you have access to an inductive AMP meter simply clamp around the wires coming off the output terminal. On a cold engine you will see 192 Amps if all the GP are working correctly. The Amp draw will taper off the longer you leave the key on. you can then check individual sides by clamping around only one output wire. this can help decide which side the bad ones are on.
12v may be passing through the relay but if it won't handle the amps, its not going to work correctly.


Barney
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Thanks Barney. Glad you're back!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
I'm certainly waiting long enough - maybe 30-40 seconds. If it's really cold, I'll wait 30-40 then cycle the key and wait another 10-20. Usually on those days, it'll try to romp, but I can stop it with a (very) little pedal manipulation.

How do I check for proper voltage transmission?
(I'm very electrically and mechanically inclined)
You shouldn't have to key cycle, the GPs stay on well after the WTS light goes out. Up to something like 3 minutes I think? Do the GPR LED mod. It is a very useful indicator of whether or not you are sending voltage to the GPs. I did this after I thought my 3rd NAPA GPR died. It did. I bought the Stancor and have not had problems with the GPR since.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:38 PM
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One other option you may want to consider, if you're not already doing it, is to change from 15w40 to a full synthetic 5w40 for winter driving. That has resolved cold start romps for many others in the past.
 
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