Notices
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Think I blew my rear???

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 19, 2013 | 03:06 PM
  #31  
granny_rocket's Avatar
granny_rocket
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
20 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Oh, I guess I missed the first post about the 3.08 axle......
That can happen when you get knocked offline for a couple days, like I did recently. Water main broke down the road, and they cut the fiber optic line by accident......
Ha! Or you could just be a moron like me and not pay attention LOL. Or forget to reply. The worst is when I can check it while I'm out then forget to hit send. DOH!

Where can I find u-bolts? Im sure they don't cost THAT much.
Once again I'm a moron...I'm thinking I have to remove my springs. Duh. Ok it's an easy swap then. I've done rears before but on GM where they use trailing arms and coil springs. Thank god ford uses a leaf I knew there was a reason I liked ford better!
 
Reply
Old Jan 19, 2013 | 09:41 PM
  #32  
f100beatertruck's Avatar
f100beatertruck
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
Club FTE Silver Member

Wow! $1,400 to r&r the rear?

Gears and bearings: $300 (minus the axle bearings)
Labor to install: $350
Axle bearings, seals and install can't be more than $200, call it $250.

That's around $900... $1,400 is too high. I'd call around if you decide to go that route.

But if you find a 3.55 rear to swap in that's probably your cheapest.
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:28 AM
  #33  
oliver28472's Avatar
oliver28472
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I wouldn't swap the whole rear end, just the differential. That is a whole lot easier. Put it on jack stands, remove the rear wheels and brake drums. On the end of the axles there is a hole. Rotate the axle until you can access a nut. Take that nut off and you can pull the axle out about a foot, just enough to get them out of the differential. You might have to use a slide hammer. Then you can take the u-bolts loose on the driveshaft/differential, take the nuts off and pull the differential.
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:49 AM
  #34  
granny_rocket's Avatar
granny_rocket
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
20 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Originally Posted by oliver28472
I wouldn't swap the whole rear end, just the differential. That is a whole lot easier. Put it on jack stands, remove the rear wheels and brake drums. On the end of the axles there is a hole. Rotate the axle until you can access a nut. Take that nut off and you can pull the axle out about a foot, just enough to get them out of the differential. You might have to use a slide hammer. Then you can take the u-bolts loose on the driveshaft/differential, take the nuts off and pull the differential.
Are you referring to a 9" rear??? The pumpkin is welded to the axl tubes and there's a cover on the back. Swapping just the diff is not possible LOL I wish it was!
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #35  
f100beatertruck's Avatar
f100beatertruck
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
Club FTE Silver Member

Did you ever find a rear?
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:32 AM
  #36  
granny_rocket's Avatar
granny_rocket
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
20 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Actually i did. Searched high and low for a matching set with no luck. The Craigslist guy never called back and anything else was out of my budget. Ended up going with a 3.08 rear out of an 85 f150 for an affordable price and the gent even threw in the door panels! I know this isn't ideal but I'll hang onto my original rear and front driveshaft in case I ever want to put 4x back together, or find a matching front diff! For now I just need my truck back I'm loosing enough without it. Sucks cramming stuff into a car. LOL
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #37  
oliver28472's Avatar
oliver28472
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Yes I was referring to the 9", thought that was what you had.
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #38  
cannonfodder777's Avatar
cannonfodder777
New User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
If you need to drive the truck, disconnect the driveshaft going to the back axle, stick it in 4WD mode and you've got a semi-working front wheel drive truck. I wouldn't recommend driving on it for long, but it'll get the truck moving at least.
 
Reply
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #39  
granny_rocket's Avatar
granny_rocket
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
20 Year Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
Originally Posted by oliver28472
Yes I was referring to the 9", thought that was what you had.
No, I wish it was that easy lol

As for the front wheel drive idea that's good to know for the future if I ever get stuck again haha
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
extol1256
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Dec 23, 2008 10:50 AM
cadriver
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
7
Mar 29, 2007 12:49 AM
rachwalj
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
14
Dec 27, 2005 05:56 PM
richardvestal
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jun 13, 2004 10:03 PM
killerklown
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
8
Jun 1, 2004 03:00 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:06 AM.