fixing cracked frame?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,182
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fixing cracked frame?
so...now that the bed is off, i can finally get a good look at it...
ouch.
a couple of questions:
is that big hole supposed to be there?
and the big question...how would you go about fixing/patching/strengthening this?
ouch.
a couple of questions:
is that big hole supposed to be there?
and the big question...how would you go about fixing/patching/strengthening this?
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 707
Likes: 2
From: Sauk City, WI
I think the hole is supposed to be there.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
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Posting Guru
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now that we've got Carras' photo for comparison- here's what i *think* the crazy PO may have done...
i think he may have drilled the hole in the frame and used it as a retainer for the top end of the coil spring.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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thanks for that-
question: if you look back at my pic- notice how the bottom of the frame (to the left of the crack) has a lip that is sort of bent downward?
is yours like that, or perfectly straight c-channel? i don't have anything to compare it to.
question: if you look back at my pic- notice how the bottom of the frame (to the left of the crack) has a lip that is sort of bent downward?
is yours like that, or perfectly straight c-channel? i don't have anything to compare it to.
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Brett Foote
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
I think the hole is supposed to be there.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
Weld it up...if you can't weld it, take it to someone who can.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
. They may have added the hole to keep the crack from spreading to the main section. I wouldn't weld the crack, I would put in a plate.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 413
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Here's a closer look. The bend makes room for the rear shock (not shown)
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,144
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From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
I think the hole is supposed to be there.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
I would sandblast to start with. Then bevel the crack as much as possible. At that point actually straighten the frame. Id cut a pattern off the good side to see how much you need to move it. Once you have the frame where it needs to be, weld it solid from both sides. I would then clean up the outside to make it look decent, and clean up the inside. I would plate the inside area with another piece of steel, probably 3/16" thick, about a foot long, that fits the rail tight, top to bottom.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
1965/78 LTD's have coil spring rear suspension w/a track bar. It's possible PO got a 9" from one, then tried to install the 9 and the coil spring suspension.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
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No, the pic shows the remains of a coil spring welded directly to the housing. OEM had a "cup" if you will to hold the spring.