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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Crank Pulley removal

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Old May 27, 2003 | 08:20 AM
  #1  
gttim's Avatar
gttim
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Crank Pulley removal

Hey,

I am replacing the timing belt in my '94 Ford Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyclinder, 5 speed truck. Everything went smooth until I needed to break the 22mm bolt on the crank pulley. Is there an easy way to keep the pulley from turning while get the required torque? I had the truck in gear with the emergency brake on, and the truck was just moving. I guess I can get some good chocks for the wheels, but I didn't know if there was another way.

Thanks

Tim
 
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Old May 27, 2003 | 09:10 AM
  #2  
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PSKSAM2
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From: Randolph, NJ
Crank Pulley removal

I had luck getting it impacted loose when I had to change a harmonic balancer on an '89 3.0L Mercury Sable.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 12:19 AM
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DASinOR
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From: Coast of Oregon, mid state
Crank Pulley removal

If you are trying to get the pulley off and the bolt is on so tight that you move the vechicle there is a trick to getting it off. It involves two people, a cheater pipe and the ignition key. The idea here is to get the socket on the bolt and then get a good long breaker bar or cheater pipe on the end of it. Place the end of the bar or pipe on the ground and make sure the socket is set on the bolt as firmly as it can be. Have an assistant crank the engine over one or two times. The sudden snap of the rotation should loosen the bolt. I have done this trick on every car I owned. Several engine rebuilds per it seems. At any rate that should get it off. If not I have no idea, DAS
 
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 06:59 AM
  #4  
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PSKSAM2
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From: Randolph, NJ
Crank Pulley removal

Originally posted by DASinOR
If you are trying to get the pulley off and the bolt is on so tight that you move the vechicle there is a trick to getting it off. It involves two people, a cheater pipe and the ignition key. The idea here is to get the socket on the bolt and then get a good long breaker bar or cheater pipe on the end of it. Place the end of the bar or pipe on the ground and make sure the socket is set on the bolt as firmly as it can be. Have an assistant crank the engine over one or two times. The sudden snap of the rotation should loosen the bolt. I have done this trick on every car I owned. Several engine rebuilds per it seems. At any rate that should get it off. If not I have no idea, DAS
I you are going to try it, and I personally wouldn't suggest it (I managed to crack sockets doing it), at least make sure of two things.

1) Pull the ignition coil wire so it is only the starter motor, and the engine doesn't crank over and start.
2) This is basically an impact application, only the crank bolt will provide the impact. Regular sockets will crack, if you manage to hold them on there.

My reccomendation stands, to get some airtools
 
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