Slick 50....
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Slick 50....
Have a 1986 carb. 300 I6, 88,000 miles. I always use good high mileage oil when I change it. (Stuff for over 75,000) The rear main seal leaks a little and was thinking of adding a additive to try to get it to maybe help out a little with the drip. Looked at "bar's leak" real main seal additive but the stuff looks like it will clog up my oil filter. I then look at slick 50 high mileage engine oil additive. It says it can slow or stop oil leaks. Anyone have any experience with either product. Also on a side note the new slick 50 products claim to have no "PTFE aka Teflon"
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Likes: 4
The older products for this purpose, like the CD-2 brand definitely work, but it's only temporary. They work by chemically attacking the material of the seal, making it softer and more pliable. The downside is that it will work for a while, then deteriorate rapidly. Hopefully by that time you'd be in a position to change out the seal. I've never heard of anyone using Slick 50 for the purpose of slowing down leaks.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Where does everyone's oil pressure gauge read? Mine is not center, reads a little more to the low side the. Then center between the two. On start up it reads about
1/4 between center and low till warms up.
1/4 between center and low till warms up.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
I have never used the Slick50 stuff, and never plan to. I have used the Lucas brand stuff with so-so results (the engine was getting pulled and scrapped anyways, so I didn't care about it). If you were looking to just "get by" for now until you can replace the seal, may give it a try.
Question is, if the product softens seals to make them seal again, is it going to do that to all the seals so they all have to be replaced? Just something to think about.
For the oil pressure gauge, I don't think any two read the same. If you want an accurate reading, install a quality aftermarket gauge.
Question is, if the product softens seals to make them seal again, is it going to do that to all the seals so they all have to be replaced? Just something to think about.
For the oil pressure gauge, I don't think any two read the same. If you want an accurate reading, install a quality aftermarket gauge.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
88,000 is barely broke in on the 300-6.
Are you sure it's not 188,000 or 288,000...???
Oil Gauge...
Mine reads between the "m" and "a" of normal on startup, and between "n" and "o" at warm idle. At warm crusing speed, between "r" and "m".
What does this mean...? It means it's got normal oil pressure...
As long as it reads in the Normal band, then it's "supposedly" safe.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 978
Likes: 1
From: Covington VA
I personally wont use any slick 50.
My dad thought it was good stuff back in the early 90s. Put it in 3 of our vehicles. All 3 blew motors within 3 months.
Only real fix is to fix.
My dad thought it was good stuff back in the early 90s. Put it in 3 of our vehicles. All 3 blew motors within 3 months.
Only real fix is to fix.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
-Explorer, yes I am sure of the 88,000 miles. Got the truck from the original owner with the original title. The truck runs great and is in my opinion excellent to almost perfect condition. I dropped a lot of money into the truck to sleep better at night. This baby is my daily driver. The rear main seal drips about one-two drops of oil every day after about 100 miles of driving to work. Doesn't bother me expect for the oil stained garage. The truck was drove about 8,000 miles a year till about 1997 when it was parked till 2012 when I picked it up. I have replaced every single thing possible expect the rear main seal. I have over $3,500 just in the maintenance parts. Nothing was broke but I wanted to know for sure the truck would be is excellent mechanical condition. New shocks, ball joints, bearing, tires, fuel pump, fuel selector switch, rebuilt carb, new brake lines, new wipers, new cap and wires, plugs, and more...
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Anyway, I guess I will just wait till I don't need the truck and fix the rear main seal. My next question is why is my oil pressure gauge not reading very high. I would say at start up it is at R and normal driving is never moves past the O. I have never seen it go past the R "half way".
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
My guess, sending unit is half plugged with old oil, or the sending unit is off a little bit.
I hope you kept the good working parts. The truth of things is that a lot of the older factory parts are made better than new aftermarket junk made in china.
I hope you kept the good working parts. The truth of things is that a lot of the older factory parts are made better than new aftermarket junk made in china.
New User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Anyway, I guess I will just wait till I don't need the truck and fix the rear main seal. My next question is why is my oil pressure gauge not reading very high. I would say at start up it is at R and normal driving is never moves past the O. I have never seen it go past the R "half way".
Adding a quart of 50 weight would do the same thing. IMO.....LOL
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
You might just slip a piece of cardboard under the truck when parked and smile at the money you have saved... also, check the PCV valve. If stopped up or sticking, crankcase pressure build-up will cause the rear main to leak.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, KS
My sentiments exactly.
1-2 drops of oil after driving 100 miles is not enough to bother with, in my opinion. I would just check the oil frequently.
