Front drum to disc conversion
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Sam,
Don't get discouraged up there. We've been young highschool guys - it's just been a while for most of us. If you don't have much money to spend then you may just want to get the old drum system you have up to speed. Unfortunately new after market brake systems are a bit pricey.
Save your money up for the Speedway disc conversion that Dmack
put the link to above - that may be your best bet for front disc brakes.
You will also have to replace the mastercylinder to support having disc brakes.
Can you explain what sort of problem you are having with your current drum set up?
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Don't get discouraged up there. We've been young highschool guys - it's just been a while for most of us. If you don't have much money to spend then you may just want to get the old drum system you have up to speed. Unfortunately new after market brake systems are a bit pricey.
Save your money up for the Speedway disc conversion that Dmack
put the link to above - that may be your best bet for front disc brakes.
You will also have to replace the mastercylinder to support having disc brakes.
Can you explain what sort of problem you are having with your current drum set up?
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
For a 65 F-250 to get disc brakes, you just have to change over to 73-79 I beams but it also requires the matching steering linkage as well. If you go to the 1961-66 forum there will be lots of information there.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
That's an urban legend, drums work better in cold weather. The only time disks are better is in deep water.
New User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-8583
Does this work I need an 8 lug kit I was wondering what you guys think about this
Does this work I need an 8 lug kit I was wondering what you guys think about this
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 4
From: Southern SC.
You may want to check out TSRMFG - The Street Rod Mfg Co -- Not sure if they have an 8 lug for an F1 but I know they have them for F2, F3 as they used my spindles as the test parts. I think the fronts set is around $350. Someone will tell you if the F1 would be the same setup but I don't know that for sure. Trust what Ax and others are saying they really are here to help.
New User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 3
From: Hendersonville, TN
It's not cheap, but not super expensive ($500-$600 if you take your time). There really is no need for a "kit" though on your truck. You should go search in the '61-'66 forum...tons of posts on it...and hopefully more info specific to an F250.
Good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
From: Saskatoon SK Canada
It stems from the fact that typically rear drums tend to not self adjust up properly. On dry pavement it functions fine but on snow and ice with a carbureted engine it will tend to push the locked up front wheels. This is why they used to teach young drivers to shift into neutral when stopping on slippery roads. Not such a problem anymore with fuel injection as they cut fuel on deceleration. If drums are properly adjusted and maintained then they work just fine.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,287
Likes: 1,052
From: NM
That's the key. Even on dry pavement, any difference in adjustment of the front drums results in a brief jerk to one side or the other on quick application of the brakes. Normally not anything to get in trouble over, but if the front end is also a little sloppy, it becomes much more noticeable. I suspect this is a situation a lot of folks with old trucks find when they first start driving their trucks, and it drives them to discs.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Gibsonia, PA
IMHO - there are two reasons to convert to disks in the front.
One is parts availability....
The second, if you live in a hilly part of the country, is "brake fade". The front drums on the late 40's and early 50's don't seem to grab as well after being heated up by going down 30 degree 1/4 mile hills. This is really noticeable on cars, but my 50 f1 experienced it as well (and about 15 other old ford guys I've talked to.) Most of them were "purests" but all converted to front discs because of this problem. They all loved their grills more than their front factory drums. Probably a result of better roads, higher speeds, more stop lights and signs and more traffic.
I did the Speedway kit on my 50, and never had to worry about the vehicle stopped in front of me again!
P.S. I had already put in Wilwood Dual Master Cylinders, new wheel cylinders, new lines and Napa brakes, and still had "fade".
One is parts availability....
The second, if you live in a hilly part of the country, is "brake fade". The front drums on the late 40's and early 50's don't seem to grab as well after being heated up by going down 30 degree 1/4 mile hills. This is really noticeable on cars, but my 50 f1 experienced it as well (and about 15 other old ford guys I've talked to.) Most of them were "purests" but all converted to front discs because of this problem. They all loved their grills more than their front factory drums. Probably a result of better roads, higher speeds, more stop lights and signs and more traffic.
I did the Speedway kit on my 50, and never had to worry about the vehicle stopped in front of me again!
P.S. I had already put in Wilwood Dual Master Cylinders, new wheel cylinders, new lines and Napa brakes, and still had "fade".
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Costa Mesa, Ca
IMHO - there are two reasons to convert to disks in the front.
One is parts availability....
The second, if you live in a hilly part of the country, is "brake fade". The front drums on the late 40's and early 50's don't seem to grab as well after being heated up by going down 30 degree 1/4 mile hills. This is really noticeable on cars, but my 50 f1 experienced it as well (and about 15 other old ford guys I've talked to.) Most of them were "purests" but all converted to front discs because of this problem. They all loved their grills more than their front factory drums. Probably a result of better roads, higher speeds, more stop lights and signs and more traffic.
I did the Speedway kit on my 50, and never had to worry about the vehicle stopped in front of me again!
P.S. I had already put in Wilwood Dual Master Cylinders, new wheel cylinders, new lines and Napa brakes, and still had "fade".
One is parts availability....
The second, if you live in a hilly part of the country, is "brake fade". The front drums on the late 40's and early 50's don't seem to grab as well after being heated up by going down 30 degree 1/4 mile hills. This is really noticeable on cars, but my 50 f1 experienced it as well (and about 15 other old ford guys I've talked to.) Most of them were "purests" but all converted to front discs because of this problem. They all loved their grills more than their front factory drums. Probably a result of better roads, higher speeds, more stop lights and signs and more traffic.
I did the Speedway kit on my 50, and never had to worry about the vehicle stopped in front of me again!
P.S. I had already put in Wilwood Dual Master Cylinders, new wheel cylinders, new lines and Napa brakes, and still had "fade".
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Gibsonia, PA
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf
They are not power assisted, but work great. Here are some picts in the '50 (I bought the pedals with clutch setup, cause the '50 is going manual when I have a chance.
Here are all three on the '47
'47 was 1st truck, '50 second (daily driver), + '51 panel (almost ready) and '53 f100 just picked up to build for my wife. Son just got '47 panel, so it wasn't first truck (and yes, I may be crazy !
)
PS: You can get Wilwood Racing stuff through Summit, Speedway and a lot of other places. If you go that way, call them to match wheel cylinders (diameter) and calipers to correct diameter master cylinders. You will need to reinforce firewall a bit, like a bar from pedals to steering column mount under dash.
You don't need proportioning valve as the pedal adjusts between the two independent masters, one front, one rear. You will never, ever lose brakes, as you have two independent masters and the pedal will compensate for losing one of them. That's why they are designed for racing.
They are not power assisted, but work great. Here are some picts in the '50 (I bought the pedals with clutch setup, cause the '50 is going manual when I have a chance.
Here are all three on the '47
'47 was 1st truck, '50 second (daily driver), + '51 panel (almost ready) and '53 f100 just picked up to build for my wife. Son just got '47 panel, so it wasn't first truck (and yes, I may be crazy !
)PS: You can get Wilwood Racing stuff through Summit, Speedway and a lot of other places. If you go that way, call them to match wheel cylinders (diameter) and calipers to correct diameter master cylinders. You will need to reinforce firewall a bit, like a bar from pedals to steering column mount under dash.
You don't need proportioning valve as the pedal adjusts between the two independent masters, one front, one rear. You will never, ever lose brakes, as you have two independent masters and the pedal will compensate for losing one of them. That's why they are designed for racing.