Hello all,
This is my first post so bear with me. I have a 2005 E350 and it is going on 90,000 miles. I want to change the spark plugs and want some answers to some questions.

1. Are my plugs a TWO pice design?
2. What kind of Plugs should I use? I want the best for my $$$$
3. How much time would it take to do them? I'm an good wrench. I do all maintence myself.
4. should I got new COP while i'm in there.

BTW the STEALERSHIP wants 800.00 pluse parts to do the job. they tell me the Van has TWO piece plugs....

 

i believe 05 does have the infamous 2 piece plugs. champion makes a 1 piece plug for your application, so they're what i would get.
the odds are somewhat high that you'll break off at least one plug in the process of getting them out. to reduce the odds of this, spray some carb cleaner into the holes after you pull off the COPs, and let it soak in for a minute.
note that ford used a 9/16 wrench size on their spark plugs on these. yes, 9/16 is totally weird for spark plugs, but they used it. gave me hell the first time i got into one of these, i tried every metric socket in my set and couldn't get a bite on it. google finally told me it was a 9/16, and that worked.
depending on where you read, some people say you have to pull off the fuel rail and a bunch of stuff to remove the COPs, but thats simply not true. i've done it with all that stuff in place, i think i had to remove the intake hose and one little bracket on the left side of the intake manifold, but that was all on that side of things.

ok, enough rambling, i'll try to give you a step-by-step

1) remove both front seats. your chiropractor will thank you for taking this advice
2) remove the doghouse
3) disconnect the battery, remove intake hose, and anything else that interferes with your access to the engine from both front and rear
4) assemble a 1/4 drive ratchet, preferably an air ratchet if you have one, with an assortment of extensions, universal joint, preferably ball joint style, and a 7mm socket. using this, remove the COPs. you may need to unplug the fuel injector wires to get room to pull some of the COPs.
5) with the COPs removed, blow compressed air into the spark plug holes to remove any loose dirt
6) spray carb cleaner into the spark plug holes, intending for it to stand about 1/2" deep in every hole.
7) assemble a 9/16 deep socket with assorted extensions on a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar, and loosen all plugs 1/4 turn or so. spray more carb cleaner in the holes to help dissolve any carbon that may be trying to hold onto the bottom half of the plugs
8) spin the plugs the rest of the way out, preferably with an air ratchet, and see how your luck went.
9) go to your local parts store and order the special extractor tool for removing the broken plug from the hardest hole to reach. this sucker http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...xtractor+lisle
10) apply anti-seize to the new spark plugs and install them. install the COPs.
11) when one of the COP mounting screws cross-threads and wants to stick up 1/4", remove it, cut off the bottom 1/4" of threads, and reinstall it.
12) finish assembling whatever is left: air intake, battery cable, doghouse, seats, etc.

as for getting new COPs, may as well if your budget allows. those are something you want to buy only top quality, preferably motorcraft. don't even consider a parts store's house-brand

as for time, if you don't have any broken plugs and do have air tools, you're looking at 3-5 hours. if you break a plug, plan to add an hour per broken plug to that total, after you pick up the extractor tool. if you don't have air tools, add another hour or two.

i would advise ordering the extractor tool at your local parts store so they have it waiting for you. if you need it, you're only out the time driving your other car to the store, and if you don't need it, just let them know and they'll send it back to the warehouse, at no cost to you.

 

thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention the engine type. I have a 5.4L and every publication i have tried is about a 40/60 % single piece design. i guess what i will do is just get in there and pull one plug and go with what I have. Maybe have both types to cover my self.

 

If you'd like to clarify your actual plugs without first removing them contact your local dealers parts department. They'll ask for your VIN from which they can tell which plugs you should be using.

Don't know I'd buy both sets though---sticker shock might finish you off!!

 

If it was me I would install these....E3 Spark Plugs
They have been proven to increase combustion efficiency and thus improve fuel economy....

 

Blageurt might wanna check in the Modular Motor Forum to see if there's any info about the E3's there. Most likely someone has first hand experience with their real-world performance.

Just an idea...............

 

Why ? Just like the people who said the earth was flat 600 years ago ?

 

the earth was flat 600 years ago, but when it saw how much we were studying it, it curled itself up into a ball to hide its sensitive underside

 

Sorry---was only trying to be helpful, suggest another avenue where someone might have practical experience with those plugs.

I'll not make the same mistake again!

 

No need to be sorry ....It's just that too many people are reluctant to embrace new technology...Fuel as you know is not getting any cheaper....so every little bit helps...

 

ATTENTION---THEY ARE NOT 2 PIECE PLUGS. THE 2 PIECE PLUGS WERE UNIQUE TO THE 3 VALVE ENGINES WHICH WERE NEVER USED IN ANY FORD VANS. I REPEAT, NEVER!!! Sorry for yelling, but dang, you guys gotta get it right. The vans have always used 2 valve engines, which have occasionally been known to spit plugs out, but I believe the newer 2 valve head design from 2005 forward had more spark plug threads. As for plugs, use the OEM Motorcraft type and read about changing plugs in the 2 valve engines before you do the job. Do not over or under torque the plugs. The carb cleaner and other magic tricks are tricks for the 2 piece plugs, so you won't have to bother with that song and dance. You will not need plug extractor tools or any of the other stuff peculiar to the 2 piece plugs. The 2 valve engine dates back to 1991 as a 4.6, grew to a 5.4 in 1997 for the trucks, and the big vans are the last Ford application for them. The pickups went to the 3 valve engine and the problematic plugs with the 2004 redesign. (Expeditions also, I forget what year.)

Good luck, and as for magic BS spark plugs, these have existed since before the "fire injectors" in the JC Whitney catalogs I read in the 1950's. If there was a magical plug that worked that well, manufacturers would use them as OEM--ESPECIALLY if they increased economy. Car companies spend a LOT of money for a 1/100th mpg increase in their fleet averages. Hype about some kind of "new" spark plugs dates back to before I was born. They all increase horsepower, gas mileage, yada yada.... Just use Motorcraft, and you will NOT have to fret about 2 piece plugs.

George

 

YoGeorge I think many of us have hoped for something magical that will increase MPG's far, far beyond the price of the whatever. The huge benefit of these forums is hands on experience from like minded Ford owners who might have already tired those instant cure alls. Myself I find those who've tried something and report back are most helpful. After all they're spent their money and time chasing the same improvements we are!

Sure there are those who automatically reject new technology---let 'em deal with that all on their own. However time and time again in the engine- or transmission-specific forums of FTE we see almost no real gains in performance or MPG's with hyped-to-death parts, that OEM tends to be better. In the case of spark plugs and O2 sensors there are too many instances of losses due incompatibility of such parts. In my own case had I read and heeded much of the info about COP's I would have saved myself $200 plus aggravation from slowly failing Granatelli parts. Oddly enough the OEM COP's with over 250K miles are still running strong!

Perhaps most learn by doing---if they have the money, time and nothing better to do with either I say go for it, change out things just because advertising hype says its a good idea. When enough anecdotal info is shared between owners of very similar vehicles and it points in one direction I give that first priority when my time to change/replace/repair something on my Ford vehicle.

Also YoGeorge your advice about determining the correct plug for our years engines is vital---enough can not be said or repeated about that--thanks for mentioning it!!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veqxUwmk1I8

This is a link for Gearz from speed network. Stacey David actually endorsed the E3 plugs, I use them in our snow blower. They make a HUGE difference in starting it in cold weather. It's pull start.

 

Endorsements can be bought. I was embarrassed when Carroll Shelby stooped to endorsing that zMax magic additive that "impregnates metal", which is physically impossible. How much ad revenue do you think Speed Channel shows get from advertisers whose products end up in shows that are virtually "infomercials"? How's your Thighmaster working? Again, if these plugs made a substantial difference, they would be used OEM on cars and snowblowers. Ford will spend hundreds of dollars on aluminum parts per vehicle to improve fuel mileage. You don't think they'd pony up $10 in license fees for a magic spark plug if they actually worked?

That said, I bought in 1994 and still own a 1991 BMW 318is (high output twincam four) which came stock with NGK plugs that had a perforated screen electrode that looked a lot like the E3 plugs, with 3 side electrodes suspending a perforated screen over the center electrode. (I'll see if I can find a pic on the Internet, but no time right now.) The current NGK high end replacement for my car is a dual side-electrode plug which works just great. I have also used Bosch 4-electrode plugs, etc. I am not a luddite when it comes to new technology, but when you consider how much money manufacturers put into research and calibration of their engines (including injection, ignition, and emissions equipment), if there was a tangible benefit in the long term to some new kind of magic spark plug technology, they would be onto it immediately.

My 2-stroke snowblower starts on the first pull every time after it has been run the first time for the year...I use the electric start once per year, when pulling it out of storage. The regular design plug in it is probably 6 years old. My Honda lawnmower starts on the first or second pull as well; it's on its 2nd year and I should probably change the plug.

Happy New Year,
George

 

Yo George ........I just put Z max in the oil in my Truck ...7.3 PSD's take anywhere from 14-15 litres of oil sooo I should have bought 2 ..but I only bought 1 , which was 25% off at Crappy Tire so it was like 20 bucks with tX.....You know what .... on my 515000 kms injectors , they actually did improve performance , as does Seafoam.......As far as How Much ? I have No Idea...... and I always use the same oil ( Rotella 15w40 )Maybe because the injectors run off the oil system I noticed a difference ?