The lights burning...
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 96
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I got the new switch and pigtail on today. Everything worked fine, at first.. Now it keeps blowin fuses and the wires getting hot. So pretty much exactly the same stuff. I found a chunk of ice that had a power wire in it an might have shorted the system but its still blowin and burnin.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I wish I had better ideas, but I don't have a diagram or an EVTM for an '83 F-250.
Seems to me that it would be best to put a relay on the output and run a heavier wire to the rear.
What amperage is the fuse supposed to be?
Seems to me that it would be best to put a relay on the output and run a heavier wire to the rear.
What amperage is the fuse supposed to be?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Orlando area
I have a wiring diagram for a 1982 F250. It is already scanned and can be e-mailed if you want a copy.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
No wonder the wire is melting.
The fuse is supposed to protect the wiring and switchgear.
I don't care how many stop/turn/marker lights you have back there, you have a short to ground somewhere in that harness.
If I were you I would be looking for it before it causes the new switch & plug to melt down just like the last one.
(and please, use the proper fuse)
The fuse is supposed to protect the wiring and switchgear.
I don't care how many stop/turn/marker lights you have back there, you have a short to ground somewhere in that harness.
If I were you I would be looking for it before it causes the new switch & plug to melt down just like the last one.
(and please, use the proper fuse)
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Can you post it to the forum?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
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From: Virginia
The brown wire leaves the switch and then spreads all over the whole truck, front to rear with splices everywhere, powering all the running lights. If you could somehow have a bag of fuses, and could separate the truck into pieces, you could narrow down where the problem is.
I also had a thought. If you could get several people to stand around the truck when it's not very light outside, put a fuse in, and then pull the lights on and get everyone to check their end of the truck. If some of the lights are dimmer than others, or completely out, then you can pretty much figure that's the area the problem is in. For instance, if the rear taillights did not come on, or were very dim, then you can probably assume the problem is at the rear of the truck. There is a factory plug back there you could unplug to verify if the fuse quit blowing.
I also had a thought. If you could get several people to stand around the truck when it's not very light outside, put a fuse in, and then pull the lights on and get everyone to check their end of the truck. If some of the lights are dimmer than others, or completely out, then you can pretty much figure that's the area the problem is in. For instance, if the rear taillights did not come on, or were very dim, then you can probably assume the problem is at the rear of the truck. There is a factory plug back there you could unplug to verify if the fuse quit blowing.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
A user-added trailer harness is often the cause of these kinds of things.
That brown wire also feeds the rear license plate illumination.
I would visually inspect the harnesses and all the sockets.
Jim is correct, the fuses are to protect the wiring. Using an over-amperage fuse WILL melt your wiring... you're shooting yourself in the foot doing that....
That brown wire also feeds the rear license plate illumination.
I would visually inspect the harnesses and all the sockets.
Jim is correct, the fuses are to protect the wiring. Using an over-amperage fuse WILL melt your wiring... you're shooting yourself in the foot doing that....