I'm getting ready to order these 1975-1979 Ford F250 Body Mount Set - Body Mechanical & Trim - Energy Suspension 75-79 F250 Body Mount Set - 5322-03139998 - PartsGeek

Is it worth the $65 or would it be just as good to get some used ones from the junk yard? Mine looked like cracked pancakes and I'm redoing the interior so might as well.

 

Although polyurethane parts last longer, they are harder and this in turn will

make the ride comfort not as comfortable.

Were you going to get used rubber body mounts? or used polyurethanes

from the JY?

What are you plans for the truck after restoration? DD or weekend use?

 

This will be a weekend use truck for fishing and camping / trails. I was going to get used rubber ones off a newer F350 or something.

 

I replace with poly all the time.

What is your time worth as far as pulling parts off of a wreck/donor? (unless

you own the donor).

Generally Iʻll get used parts from the JY if they are obsolete OEM.

If I can get new parts Iʻll buy new, I donʻt like wasting time pulling

off parts from a donor when I can buy new, (almost like doing the

same job twice) and getting off old parts takes a bigger hammer sometimes.

Like many projects there is a "tipping" point for you.

Money vs. time vs. value.

Keep us posted.

 

good point. They would probably charge me $20 for them anyways, so $40 isn't worth my time. I guess my next question would be does it make that much of a difference in ride and body line height?

 

I bought the poly set and installed them last October - washers are moulded in not loose - they really tighten up the cab (not much wiggeling) and road noise greatly reduced since they are insulators.

Installation was by someone else since I had a cab swap done because of rust.

Old ones were rusted together so an angle grinder was used to cut them apart where necessary.

Much better to buy them new since used ones (were) can be rotted.

Consider buying the set with new bolts - just grind off the old nuts.

You will be very pleased.

I noticed a slightly higher position when driving than before...

 

Why in the world would you even attempt to remove them from a junk yard truck, They do make rubber replacements you will be wasting your time most or them are rusted together and nearly impossible to even get apart without a sawzall and air hammer, And the kit your looking at has no bolts alignment pins etc


Theres alot more to it then just the rubber

 

I've been thinking of poly mounts myself, if you don't mind me throwing in another question.. If they are that stiff, will it put too much strain on the cab if the frame cannot give as much while trail running? I've popped windshields just by lifting the plow on a truck in the past because of cab flex.

 

anyone have a link to a decently priced kit with the bolts and all?

 

Not listed on ebay just now - only one I saw was a couple of years ago...

Suggest grade 8 bolts from NAPA the correct lengths and diameter - save any old washers that go under the bolt heads or nuts if needed and reusable.

I think 3 pairs of different bolt lengths would be needed - front cab, rear cab and front clip.

I am sure the mounts move enough to not put a high strain on the cab - a bigger worry was the mount holes on the frame were partly rotted out and could break out in rough trail rides - the mechanic washered this spot to avoid breakage. The pounding on the bolt with a large hammer shattered the mount hole area - which is why I suggest cutting the nuts off... (washers were badly corroded too)

It is possible to get new front mountings if rusted out.

1979 F150 cab Mounts | eBay


It is worth the effort!

 

so I take it I just need the kit with the metal sleeves and washers and get the bolts at napa or ACE?

 

While everybody says they are "so" stiff, I found that the difference was not perceivable. I would install them in another truck in a second.

 

The bolts did not rust onto anything except the nuts - but the nuts came off with lots of WD40 and two guys twisting 1/2" drive tools. I just think it would be a lot easier and less time to grind the nuts off (if there is room) then using wrenches.

The kit I installed only had the poly 'pucks' which had washers and the sleeves embedded into them. There were some (12) washers provided, used under the bolt head and the nut as I recall, since the pucks squash down under the bolt head on top and the nut at the bottom.

The original ones on the truck had sleeves that rusted together so when the nut and bolt were removed the top and bottom sleeves (the top one slid over the other) rusted together and were first pounded on with a heavy hammer - which worked to separate 5/6 of them - but also knocked out a part of the frame mount the rear right cab.

I used an angle grinder to cut the last pair of sleeves off by cutting the top off as seen from on top of the frame then it just fell apart.

The mechanic tightened all quite tight when installing - squeezed to almost no play.

All but 1 of the bolts were used again - however it took a 1/2" power bar with a piece of pipe to remove the nuts after all were soaked in 'Deep Creep'

Order the kit and take the clip off, and the cab loosened, and old mounts off the frame then you will know what to get from NAPA or ACE.

I would anti seize when putting the nuts back on again.

 

I have the entire Poly bushing set through out the truck. Best thing to do is to change all the mounts at the same time no matter if your going OEM or poly. Helps to keep body lines straight. I used grade 8 bolts from the local tractor supply that fit the inner diameter of the poly bushings. I added a few washers and for under $10, I have new hardware for the new bushings.

 

Poly bushings and parts are not WAY more stiff, they just have an "edge"

Or "crisp" feel.

This is an opportunity to ask the wifey for better shocks all around.

It worked for me.