Need help with old wiring. please help !

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Feb 9, 2013 | 07:51 PM

#16

Country-Strong

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From: Walton

Thank you sir

Feb 9, 2013 | 08:37 PM

#17

ctubutis

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From: Denver Metro Area, CO

Please shrink your pictures next time, would ya please? 1600 x 1200 is just WAY too huge, especially for something that doesn't need excruciating detail like this.

I see you're using tinypic, they have the ability shrink images for you as you upload. *hint* *hint* *hint*

Feb 9, 2013 | 09:01 PM

#18

81-F-150-Explorer

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From: Northern California

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Starter cable to one of the studs.
All four others (alternator, battery+, and the two fuse links with the rubber blocks @ eylets) on the other stud.

Unless the truck has Hot Fuel Handling or one of the EFI systems. Then one of the fuse links could be for the in-tank fuel pumps when the truck is being cranked or started. Need more information, If the truck has idiot lights as opposed to gauges, what color wires the fuse links are hooked to etc... before any determination can be met.

Quote:

If it won't crank move the red boot to the other side. (it looks like your solenoid is 90* away from the Motorcraft Chris pictured)

There were a few types of that motorcraft solenoid with different angles depending on model.

Feb 9, 2013 | 09:07 PM

#19

ctubutis

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From: Denver Metro Area, CO

Shouldn't the red-boot wire go to the terminal labelled as S? No hunting & pecking & swapping required, just look at it.

Feb 9, 2013 | 09:13 PM

#20

81-F-150-Explorer

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From: Northern California

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctubutis

Shouldn't the red-boot wire go to the terminal labelled as S? No hunting & pecking & swapping required, just look at it.

I would think so yes... Some solenoids only had the one small terminal anyway.

Feb 10, 2013 | 04:09 AM

#21

ArdWrknTrk

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

I was not aware that Motorcraft had different variants with different 'clocking'.
Good to know, Thank you 81-F-150.

Yes, the red/blue wire should always go to the 'S' terminal, and the 'i' terminal is energized while cranking.
My tiny screen and old eyes combined, do not allow me to see that kind of detail regardless of the image size of C-S's post.

Older DSII ignitions use the 'I' terminal to trigger the timing retard function, I know.
But that wire would have the correct angled rubber boot and not an oversized fusible link eyelet IME.

Feb 18, 2013 | 03:32 PM

#22

Country-Strong

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From: Walton

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ctureid=123076
I couldnt find how to make this picture smaller sorry ha. I got some sparks off it at this hook up but thats not correct, the green looking wire is for my lights and the one next to it goes to my wiring harness. I think the red boot goes where it is. I need this truck to start or its out of here. I need money for a new car i been saving up. I cant wait no longer or i cant get to school. And i cant get a job to walk to im on a waiting list i dont have time tho. I stop one job for a better one and they keep toying with me i f up on that. And if any one knows of any good deals on cars let me know please, im in Kentucky

Feb 18, 2013 | 04:03 PM

#23

ArdWrknTrk

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

First off, take off all the wires.
Touch only the battery cable to the solenoid post.
Sparks? Solenoid is shorted to ground.
No sparks?
Slip the battery wire on the stud and touch the starter wire to the other side.
Sparks? the solenoid is welded closed.
No sparks?
Touch the alternator wire to the same stud as the battery wire.
Sparks? The alternator is bad. Replace it.
No sparks? Slip that wire onto the stud with the battery cable.
Make sure the light switch is off and the doors are closed.
Touch the green wire to the same stud.
Sparks? You have a short. connect a test light between the green wire and the + lug of the solenoid and see how bright it is.
Pull fuses one at a time until it goes out.
You have now found the circuit that is faulty.
No sparks?
Touch the black looking wire to the same stud.
Sparks?
Connect the test light and go through the same procedure with the fuses to isolate which circuit is shorted and draining your battery.
Some electricity is expected to flow. It is for things like radio memory, clock etc.. but the light should not glow brightly.

Hope this helps.

(EDIT, I post your picture here)