Well I'm home from school for winter break and my older brother asked if I could work on his ranger while I was home. He has all sorts of problems, first he has a leak, I'm guessing its an oil leak. It's coming from, it seems like the middle of the engine. He also said there was a code for the o2 sensors but has gone away. He also has the door ajar light on and won't shut off. He also said the engine idles rough and doesn't know why.

Any help would be great!!!!

Thanks

 

What year Ranger is it? Which engine does it have?

Also, I would re-scan for codes, even pending ones - those could help a lot...

 

I totally forgot about that, sorry! It's a 1997 ford ranger 4.0L 2wd.

I also forgot to add that he said some mornings it won't start and that it takes a few tries.


I will rescan when he gets home from work.

 

Assuming the dome light is staying on ( or burned out) for the door ajar light issue one of the switches (inside each door near latch) that controls dome light is likely the culprit. They can be sprayed with a shot of WD40 which sometimes fixes it. For oil leak could be many things some possibilities are valve cover gasket,oil sending unit, oil drain plug or loose oil filter to name a few. Clean the engine and see if you can trace the exact source. For rough running is check engine light lit? Take it to advance/autozone and have them scan it for free to retrieve codes and go from there to narrow it down.For starting issues a possibility is gas filter and/or a weak fuel pump and /or in need of a tuneup (air filter/spark plugs).

 

The check engine light isn't lit. Although it was lit about two months ago, I got the code but I have since forgotten it. I know it was something about the bank #2 O2 sensor.

 

My brother just got back from work. The code he got awhile back was P0133. I know it's something to do with the o2 sensors. Bank 1 sensor 1? I don't know what that's means. The CES light hasn't been on in awhile.

Thanks for the response

 

Here's a link on your code. In addition to causes listed I also read that a vac leak can cause it to throw that code so look/listen for a vac leak before replacing sensor.. Bank 1 is same side as cylinder number 1 and it's the sensor ahead of the cat converter.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0133 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)

 

Slow O2 sensor response suggests lots of miles on them, so if they have 75K miles or more, its likely time to replace Both cyl banks upstream/before cat converter O2 sensors, so the computer gets balanced feedbck for both cyl banks & thus can keep both cyl bank fuel trim in tighter control & that can yield better preformance & mpg, which at todays fuel prices can over time pay back the cost of scheduled maintenance parts cost.

How many miles on this puppy & do you know if the vehicle is up to date on All past & present due scheduled maintenance replacement items, like fluids, filters, spark plugs, ignition cables, PCV valve, O2 sensors ect????

 

It has roughly 67,000 miles. This truck has gone thru 3 generations since it was bought new, I don't have the maintenance records from my great-grandfather or my grandfather. But ever since my brother got the truck, I have done the maintenance when he tells me he wants it. I have replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires, normal oil changes and little things here or there. No new O2 sensors, haven't done transmission fluids or engine coolant. I was going to do fuel filter and air filter this weekend.

Thanks for the responses, I appreciate all the help!

 

OK, 67K miles on it, so its in the range to have the O2 sensors replaced. I have a littile over 70K on my 99 4.0L, so mine are close to time for replacement also.

Probably a good idea to change the fuel & air filter, especially if they haven't been replaced since 97. Fuel & air filter are scheduled for change every 30K miles.

Sounds like its about time for older brother to learn how to do some of these wrench turning things for himself, so teach him how to get his hands dirty too!!!! lol

 

I'll get on that! Thanks for all the help. I have another question, what kind of gas mileage should this ranger be expecting? Is there anything that I could do to improve the mileage of the ranger??

 

We don't know which tranny or differential ratio this 4.0L has, nor what viscosity engine lube is in it, which cab style & if its still in its stock form, or has had some mods over the years & all those things can affect mpg.
The all stock 4.0L in my signature still gets 17-19 city & 23-24.8 highway, driving the speed limit. The lower numbers are winter, higher numbers summer.

So, the maintenance things so far discussed in this thread can affect mpg, especially the slow switching/response O2 sensors, a clogged air or fuel filter, the wrong viscosity crankcase oil, wrong size tires, or tires not aired up to spec, are some of the things that come to mind. Just get the scheduled maintenence items up to date with the specified parts that say they meet or exceed Fords specifications & drive in a reasonable rpm range & it'll yield its best mpg under the driving conditions its operated in.

The specified crank case lube is 5W-30, but if you live where you often see sub zero temps in winter, maybe consider a 0W30 crankcase lube.

We have a "waste spark" ignition in our 4.0L, so it needs at least double platinum plugs, better is the newer specified finewire iridium enhanced center electrode with platinum pad ground/sidewire design plug, as its spark gap will remain in spec much longer. The waste spark system works its plugs & wires Twice as hard as the old distributor ignition system, as it fires its plugs on Every rotation of the crankshaft, so we need plugs & wires designed to take the double work load.

Use a "Top Tier" fuel & it'll likely keep the fuel injectors, intake valves, piston crown & head free of deposits & that'll make it start & run better.

Some mpg thoughts for consideration, let us know how the maintenance trouble shoot goes.

 

I was working on the Ranger today, I replaced the air filter then I started working on the fuel filter. I couldn't get the dang thing off. I got one side off but I couldn't get the side facing the front of the truck off. I have the little plastic removal tool.

 

Make sure the plastic release tool is Fully inserted, then try slipping a small blade screwdriver in the plastic tool slit, to cause it to spread open more & this will cause it to spread open the garter spring more, then keep pushing in on the release tool while pulling on the fuel line to seperate it from the filter.

 

I tried that again to no luck. I'll try again later, but another problem just appeared. He went to start the truck and all the power shut off and didn't turn on. And wouldn't start

Thanks for all the help