Go to a site such as imgur.com . You can upload the picture, and they will give you a link to put in the forums.

I'm really curious about this diagnostic connector you found inside.

 

Here's what typically happens.
Click this link:A9x ECM's (and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age

Bob

 

*****s and giggle i checked negative from battery that i assume goes to block or frame. There is a crimp spot on what i would call the cradle. The cable is pulling out of the crimp. And the copper is all green. If i knew how to put a pic in here i would add it to see what y'all think. Buddy of mine says it don't look bad from the pic.

 

I put a new folder up in pictures. Its called 302 stumper. Has the inside obd port and a few other pix.

Leadhead.. i do all this from my cell.. so some things are kinda hard to pull off. But i got them uploaded to fte to my user photo albums including the inside obd port... or what i think is one... it was shoved inside the trim under left side cig lighter andbehind next to that cubby hole below steering wheel. Damn near where an obd2 port would be.

 

Good pix, thanks Bob. I will look for that when i pull the puter out. I can braze... but soldering is not a strong point. Besides... autozone sells the puters for $90 and i get a warranty and all new caps. But mainly... i trust my brazing but not my soldering. Lol

 

Dumb question here... but... if i put my tps in and pretensioned the throttle plates. Coild that be causing my issues as well? I'm not getting tps code... but just wondering as i watched a video on uoutu e of a guy installing a tps and he did not do that with his.

 

U can check to see if readings are right with a voltmeter. You want .80-1.0 in idle

 

And the test port isn't a test port, it's the chime plug, you know for the doors and ign. Least that's where it's location is on mine

 

Guess that is why i don't have a binging sound if i leave my headlights on. LOL
U explained that one puddy

 

Only wire that showed voltage was orange. Koeo was from .01 to 3.25 other two were dead.
Engine running green and black still dead. Orange peaked at .010
This was probing through the silicone so i must not have a good connection. As otherwise i cannot imagine the truck would even run.

Play it safe... tomorrow i'm going to pull throttle body and reinstall tps the way they showed on youtube

 

You're probably not getting to the wire when probing like you said. One of the wires (black most likely) will be signal return (ground), another (orange) will be +5 V (reference voltage) and the green should be the output of the position sensor. Appx .8 to 1.0V at idle with a steady rate change on up to appx 4.8V when operated. It should be a smooth flow as you operate the throttle blades up and down with no breaks or gaps indicating a faulty sensor. For quick check you can just probe the green wire and put the other test lead on a good ground on the engine somewhere. It will be close to what you get using the sig return for probing. You can also verify the 5V ref like this as well.

Not sure what you mean by pretensioned the throttle plates but when you look at the TPS sensor and how it sits over a tab that sticks up on the blade shaft, you'll see that the tab engages the TPS "knubs" to rotate it when screwed on. When you install the TPS, it should go on slightly rotated counter clockwise relative to where it sits on the throttle body and then once seated rotate it slightly clockwise to install the screws. You will then need to adjust the voltage so its in proper idle range. Hopefully the youtube video shows this as well.

This site has a ton of good info. http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/EFI_harness3.gif

 

I would replace the cable.

 

Planning to replace cable.
As far as adjusting the tps.... there are no slots to adjust it... can only tighten it down.
When i installed before i rotated it so the to tabs would catch on the flat blade screwdriver tip that sticks through the bottom into the tps.

 

These trucks are bad for battery acid creeping down the cables and getting into the o2 sensor harness and screwing with the signal. I have fixed a couple by separating the o2 wires from the battery cables and putting them into their own bundle.

 

Insane, that "crimp" you mentioned, been there, done that....! I completely removed that ground wire, and ran a new one. I had similar problem with that SAME ground, and I just simply ran it from the negative terminal, directly to the block. You can break the clamp free, I believe it is just bolted down, like a conduit clamp, and trim the insulation back some and clean the corrosion out. Once done, I would use a liquid tape on the exposed area of wire, then run some black vinyl tape over that from several inches before the trim and then after.

Also you need to pierce the wire of the TPS sensor with a rather sharp needle. Do this so you can get a better reading and not physically damage the TPS wiring or weathertight connector. A new one from Ford is around $60+. I would only use a Ford part for this, unless you are really strapped for cash. Run the black lead from your DVOM directly to the neg. terminal, and the red lead to the needle that has pierce the Orange wire. Once you have completely finished all of you testing, be sure to put a DAB, only a dab of silicone on the exposed area of the wire that you pierced to prevent corrosion or other interefence. You can also use another needle to pierce the black wire of the TPS sensor to obtain your ground there as well. That would also be a good idea as you have stated you are having electrical problems, hence a poor ground, thus a bad reading from the TPS. It is worth a shot to get a reading from the negative terminal and the black wire on the TPS sensor to compare the 2 voltages.