I've been having a problem randomly for about the past year. Every so often, my truck will just stall. It starts right back up, but still kind of a PITA. Usually it would only do it if I was stopped like at a light or idling, but lately, it's been doing it while driving and accelerating. It will try to stall 2 or 3 times, but since the RPMs are up, it continues to run. Then last week, when I was warming it up, it was idling fine for a few minutes, then started misfiring and romping and smoking like there was air in the fuel system. I pulled the valve covers, and sure enough the drivers side UVC plug was working it's way out. I did the .50 mod, put the cover back on and it fired up fine. I still did the other side, where one of the retaining clips was actually broken off. I still did the mod, and even without the second clip holding it, it still seemed to hold tight. I put it all back together and took it for a test ride and all was good. UNTIL the next day, there was a sputter while accelerating and later in the day, it stalled at a red light. Today, twice so far it's tried to die while under power. Bumps in the road are not a factor, and for some reason my AE won't read my codes anymore. Any ideas?

 

Have you tried removing your chip and driving around for a couple of days to see if the symptoms remain?

 

Mine was recently an ICP issue and water. Doubt that is yours but was was my problem from washing my engine bay.

 

No, I haven't tried pulling the chip. Though I have tried in different settings and still happens. I did wash the engine compartment also that day (also replaced power steering pump that was leaking at the shaft) but all has to be dry since then.
Is it possible after 4 -5 years for a glitch to show up in the tuner?

 

I was thinking about a possible loose connection at the PCM or switcher cable which could be something that develops over time.

 

Have you tried a new cps?

 

No I haven't. It has the International CPS in it that's only about a year and a half old. So, should be allright???

 

I'm kind of voting on the CPS as well. For $35 it's a quick and easy thing to rule out. If it does fix it then at least you'll have a spare like they say you should always have.

 

This is true.

 

Any way to check for codes and see if there is a hint there?

A loose UVCH won't give you the symptoms you're describing, but getting them shimmed is a good idea. It might be worth double checking the side that had a broken retainer. If the clip is broken, what is going to hold the quarter in place?

 

Is the tin nut on your IPR tight? This is free to check. Make tripple sure your chip is tight, tight, tight. I think the torque spec on the IPR nut is 52 INCH lbs.

 

Only one side of the clip was broken, so, the quarter is actually holding it in place. I have an AE to read the codes, but for some reason, my Ford enhancement package has disappeared, and they want me to pay for it again. Hopefully I can get them to just give me a new code tomorrow, or else this thing is a $250 paper weight so far as my truck goes. It won't even pull codes let alone anything else. I emailed them again today, and I missed the phone call from the rep, so hopefully tomorrow I can get some codes.

 

I did the IPR rebuild a couple of years ago, but I haven't checked it yet. I'm just getting into the whole thing.

 

Start with the basics first. Don't think complicated out of the box. Last fuel filter change? Fuel color good in there? Check the fuel pump by doin' the open the fuel bowl drain into a container gig to see the fuel flow? HPOP reservoir level check?...yada, yada.

 

All fluids and filters 5000 ago at 300k. fuel pump is fine as is the hpop. Definitely looking at all of the simple stuff first. Jumping the gun=$$$!!!