I'm looking at doing the full flush and seeing if I can get it all clear. Still reading up on it, so I'm not sure if its doable for me. The pulling of the starter is of most concern to me, unless that's a lot easier than it sounds like.

 

I've never pulled it, but I have spent a little time looking at it while trying to get my heater block cord plugged in... Doesn't look like it would be too bad.

 

If you guys do have Green coolant in there you should use some stuff called Restore and restore Plus IIRC

Ford recomends stuff Called VC-9 it works Great for Cleaning out any rust and stuff

IIRC the Restore Plus is used to clean out Silicate Slim type stuff what is probably more what you want if the green has slimed the system

Iv done mine 3 times now and only used the Ford VC-9 but i didnt have any slim

The best way I found to really clean the system good is to Pull the thermostat and Run the Cleaner for 1 1/2 Hours parked in the driveway with a Brick on the accelerater pedal at 1100 rpm it got upto 150-160*f and then only took a couple flushes after that to Flush CLEAR Worked Great

I also tried it without Pulling the thermostat and Could NOT Ever get it to flush Clear even 12 water flushes later still wasnt clear

Dave I will throw alittle Caution your Way but some folks have Clogged the Oil Cooler with flushing especialy when the Oil Cooler is like yours that being its been run in the truck for awhile and the Deltas are Borderline

But with Dieselvol his oil cooler being so new if it did clog the oil cooler a reverse flush would clear it up

 

It's not too bad. Top bolt is a booger unless you have the exact length extension to get a ratchet just past the end of the starter where you can get some swing on it. Don't forget to disconnect the batteries first, I won't ever again.

 

Ahhh another welded wrench. Those batts do put out some amps don't they!! Ehh Rusty

 

Thanks, Benny... I've still got that oil cooler I bought for my red truck, so I've got one ready to go if I do plug it. I've always used the vc-9 in my flushes. I'll check out the restore for the slime too. And I'll be pulling the tstat for sure. I'm replacing the tstat on my personal truck cause I've never seen coolant go over 180 unless pulling a 7000# trailer up an 8% grade.

 

Yes replace that thermostst you will get Better MPG at 190* ECT

Once I was running 175*ECT average and was down approx 30-40 miles per tank

 

If I've taken in all I've read and all you've said here correctly (highly doubtful), it appears my first step is to do a reverse flush of the oil cooler. Does the tech file show that a Fumoto valve can be put in without removing the starter, or does it say to remove the starter, put the valve in, then never have to remove the starter again? Lots more questions to follow, I'm sure...

 

My understanding is that once the valve is in, you never have to remove the starter again...

 

Something is telling me your Oil Cooler is OK and the problem is something eles


How many miles on the New Oil Cooler?????


Was the ECT & EOT Spread good Right after the work?????????

 

It has around 2.5 to 3k at most. It would run around 11-12 and some brief 13 the day I got it back. I was pretty disappointed. It did pretty much the same prior to the change. We changed it just because it was already apart, not because it was getting progressively worse.

 

Makes Me wonder if the mechanic even changed it at All the oil cooler that is


what Coolant was in it

 

It was the Ford Gold before. If he didn't change it, that would be a MAJOR fraud, as he definitely did the studs. I can't imagine not changing out the cooler with the part sitting there (I bought it and had it delivered to him) and the engine already apart. He also described the way the other one was put in wrong. I'd have to have really misjudged him.

 

well he probably did change that Oil Cooler


What color coolant is in Now????

Iv seen guys put 3 & 4 Oil Cooolers in Bad Mouthing Ford the whole 9 Yards come to find out they never flushed the cooling system out

For now Maybe we should look at irt like the Oil Cooler is New it got Flushed cooling system (How well????)

SO that leaves a Coolant flow issue (Water Pump or Cavitated Front Cover)
A sensor Issue (However they sound OK)
a wireing to sensor isue


the water Pump has plastic fins so they can break
If coolant wasnt kept at 50/50 mix the front cover can cavitate and wont Flow right

 

I think the coolant is now green, but I'll have to check that out (been pouring here for 2 days and I can't get it in the garage). If it comes to it, is the water pump and/or oil cooler a "do it yourself" job?