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im looking to replace the stock intake manifold or "Y-pipe" with a PUSHER Intake Manifold Kit but it says in the description that the "factory heater coil is deleted" does anybody know what this does? and if this is an important part?
what is the intake spider? i do have some cracks developing around the fittings for all of the wires and sensors that go to the Y pipe, when i got it it was like that so i have no clue what caused these cracks but they have gotten a lot worse and that was the main reasoni want to replace it.
Most of us refer to your "y-pipe" as "the spider".
There is an air heater element in the discharge side of the turbo (between the turbo and intake manifolds), which is mounted from the front side of the spider immediately to the left of the turbo's air entrance flange. It is only meant for use in really cold weather conditions and rarely ever would come on. Therefore, the presence of the heating element in your air inlet pipe creates some flow restriction.
Most of us delete it anyway, and some use a drilled/tapped plug as the location for a boost gauge connection. Below is a link to one source for a filler plug to use when eliminating the heater element, and another link to more discussion and instructions for performing the delete. All this just gives you a fuller understanding of what your source was referring to.
is your intake spider broken? if not i would spend the money elsewhere....
Unless huge... really HUGE horsepower gains are pursued, like to the degree of the truck almost not being capable of being used as a daily driver... this is sound advice.
what is the intake spider? i do have some cracks developing around the fittings for all of the wires and sensors that go to the Y pipe, when i got it it was like that so i have no clue what caused these cracks but they have gotten a lot worse and that was the main reasoni want to replace it.
We are talking 7.3 diesel correct? How many miles do you have?
Most of us refer to your "y-pipe" as "the spider".
There is an air heater element in the discharge side of the turbo (between the turbo and intake manifolds), which is mounted from the front side of the spider immediately to the left of the turbo's air entrance flange. It is only meant for use in really cold weather conditions and rarely ever would come on. Therefore, the presence of the heating element in your air inlet pipe creates some flow restriction.
Most of us delete it anyway, and some use a drilled/tapped plug as the location for a boost gauge connection. Below is a link to one source for a filler plug to use when eliminating the heater element, and another link to more discussion and instructions for performing the delete. All this just gives you a fuller understanding of what your source was referring to.
I would have to agree on putting your money elsewhere. Not that it couldn't happen, but the intake cracking would be really unusual. Do a search for making a boost leak tool, using pressurized air to charge the intake system, squirting soapy water to find leaks.
Rarely does a spider need to be replaced. That being said, if you're set on replacing it, why not go with a proven brand. AFE makes the Bladerunner intake and it's great quality and looks good on top of it. You're not going to come up with something that out flows the factory design but if you want to make a change: Riffraff Diesel: AFE Bladerunner Intake Manifold
For the same price you are getting way better quality.
so the claims that the AFE bladerunner outflows the factory intake manifold by 18% and the turbo outlet flow by 15% are wrong?
Not to say yes or no, but remember we are dealing with a 3500 max rpm motor, and there is this intercooler thing. I am just saying these motors have a lot of plumbing involved, and how much difference could the intake really effect? Unless we are talking 6-800 hp.
The factory Intercooler is the real restriction in the intake stream. The AFE flows a whole 24cfm more than the factory spider. It doesn't matter worth a darn. I can tell you that I read about 28-30psi max boost with my intercooler hooked up. If I bypass it with a van spider, my 35psi boost gauge is maxed out. Granted, so are my EGTs but that's another issue all together.