puzzler
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
the hole in the screen of the ipr was caused by poor cleaning habits while removing the oil cooler. not the trucks fault.
the coolant leak is not comming out from the cyclinder heads either
the coolant leak is not comming out from the cyclinder heads either
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
I was absolutly meticulous about cleaning the area around and then fully cleaning the inside of the oil cooler bowl. I sucked out ALL of the oil from the bowl as well. I'm not saying these problems were the trucks fault at all. But caused by lack of maintenance!
This is a "work construction truck" with over 208k HARD miles of work. The maintenece records are unknown and when i asked my freind if he had ever changed the oil since he bought it from the company he said NO.
good news is that i got it running last night. I can now pull a turbo off the truck in about 20 minutes....way to much practice on this. I pulled the turbo and took the IPR out. Then I put a ton of paper towels around the hole and then cranked the truck for about 10 seconds to "flush" out the pump and hopefully anything else that was inbetwwen the cooler and pump area. put it all back together and it fired right up. it is also holding the coolant level in the degas tank now as well.
I will take it for a test drive tonight to see if it does any more bucking or stalling so i'm keeping my fingers crossed that we got all the nasty stuff that was stuck inside out!
This is a "work construction truck" with over 208k HARD miles of work. The maintenece records are unknown and when i asked my freind if he had ever changed the oil since he bought it from the company he said NO.
good news is that i got it running last night. I can now pull a turbo off the truck in about 20 minutes....way to much practice on this. I pulled the turbo and took the IPR out. Then I put a ton of paper towels around the hole and then cranked the truck for about 10 seconds to "flush" out the pump and hopefully anything else that was inbetwwen the cooler and pump area. put it all back together and it fired right up. it is also holding the coolant level in the degas tank now as well.
I will take it for a test drive tonight to see if it does any more bucking or stalling so i'm keeping my fingers crossed that we got all the nasty stuff that was stuck inside out!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
Congrats on getting it running. If it was neglected as bad as you say it was its gonna need a bunch of TLC. Make sure when you change the fluids and filters that you only use OEM/racor oil, fuel and OEM air filters, going cheap on the filters and oil change intervals will cost you big money down the road.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 79
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i've learned a ton about the 6.0 engine and how it runs and i have several other freinds with the same engine that i will definatly be STRESSING to them the importance of the oil changes intervals and oem filters.
I've done 2 oil changes with 2 OEM filters that alone was almost $200 not including the IPR and all of the labor that i had to put in to get it even to fire up again.
thanks all for your input. I hope this is the last posting for this topic!
I've done 2 oil changes with 2 OEM filters that alone was almost $200 not including the IPR and all of the labor that i had to put in to get it even to fire up again.
thanks all for your input. I hope this is the last posting for this topic!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
One more item of possible future concern with the HPO system and it being an 06 model is the stand pipes and dummy plugs are known to leak, there are updated parts that address this issue and are about 100 bucks through tousley ford Tousley Ford Parts Depot
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Brett Foote
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
yepper. to get the passenger side stand pipe out you will need to take the torx head bolts out of the oil rail and lift it up a bit to get the stand pipe to clear the A/C box and you will need to do this to get the new one in. Just make sure when you pull the oil rail that you pull it up even and reinstall it with the same care so you dont damage the O'rings in the top of the injectors.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 79
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can this be done without taking all the stuff in the valley out...turbo, intake, oil cooler etc?
i would have to take the tube from the air cleaner and the ficm and the electronics on the passenger side cover also. anything else?
i would have to take the tube from the air cleaner and the ficm and the electronics on the passenger side cover also. anything else?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
All the stuff in the center stays, all that needs to be removed is the air filter and tube up to the turbo, degas bottle, FICM, glow plug module and the valve covers. There may be a couple of other things but those are the main ones. Just make sure you remember where the long valve cover bolts go and make sure you dont have any harnesses laying across one of the long valve cover bolts. On a side note to get to 2 of the torx head bolts on the oil rail next to the A/C box you will need a short torx head with a 1/4" breaker bar to be able to get those 2 out and the torque value on the small torx head bolts is 10 ft/lbs and 60 ft/lbs on the stand pipes and dummy plugs. Sorry for the novel.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
