300 I-6 Ticking Noise
#31
Alright, a friend of my dad's said that we should use a jack to lift off of the harmonic balancer and I'm asking y'all, if you were planning to pull an oil pan, what would you use; a jack below the engine or an engine hoist above? Also, where would you position your jack or how would you hook up your hoist to your engine? And what items would you remove for clearance/to make sure you do not break anything to ensure the easiest and safest job?
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
#32
Ford Racing M-6880-A50 Ford Racing Oil Filter Adapter
That thing is pricey, but can be found at junk yards too, came on some engines, just don't remember which.
After I had rebuilt my engine with the stock horizontal filter, most of the time it would clatter a bit on startup until the oil filled again and also on long sweeping interstate "on ramps", it would also clatter for some reason. Different brands of oil filters didn't help.
I finally installed a remote oil filter setup that I got on, ebay shipped for about 30 bucks and never heard the clatter again. It puts the oil filter in a vertical position so it doesn't matter if the anti drainback valve in the filter works or not, the filter always stays full.
Just something else for you to think about and save you some head scratching if it does happen.
#34
I've built "a few" 300s. Before pulling the pan I would be sure the noise is not:
rocker arm hash
excessive valve guide wear
stuck lifter
imminent cam gear failure
If I were going to pull the pan I would pull the head too. And the pistons, which I'm guessing have cracks and maybe a broken ring or worn ring land. That way you can knurl the guides, do a valve job, pocket port the heads (you're 17 son, its time you learned to do this), replace the rockers and pushrods that have worn tips or fulcrums. Any and all of these things are more likely to need replacing than the oil pump.
Jump in. I wish I had tackled projects like this at your age that were seemingly too extensive at the time to undertake. Nothing beats hands-on experience as a learning tool. Everything I've mentioned could be accomplished for a couple/three hunderd bucks if you manage your pennies carefully and develop your "puppy dog eyes" expression when talking to the pros. And at completion you will have an engine good for another ten years of service, maybe forever with loving care.
Do you have a tech program at your local high school / trade school. That's a good place to seek help and even free labor.
Good luck.
rocker arm hash
excessive valve guide wear
stuck lifter
imminent cam gear failure
If I were going to pull the pan I would pull the head too. And the pistons, which I'm guessing have cracks and maybe a broken ring or worn ring land. That way you can knurl the guides, do a valve job, pocket port the heads (you're 17 son, its time you learned to do this), replace the rockers and pushrods that have worn tips or fulcrums. Any and all of these things are more likely to need replacing than the oil pump.
Jump in. I wish I had tackled projects like this at your age that were seemingly too extensive at the time to undertake. Nothing beats hands-on experience as a learning tool. Everything I've mentioned could be accomplished for a couple/three hunderd bucks if you manage your pennies carefully and develop your "puppy dog eyes" expression when talking to the pros. And at completion you will have an engine good for another ten years of service, maybe forever with loving care.
Do you have a tech program at your local high school / trade school. That's a good place to seek help and even free labor.
Good luck.
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