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The secondary metering block on some Holleys can be changed but if one is going to go to that trouble, one might as well get metering blocks with changeable jets or a model carb that has secondary metering blocks with changeable secondary jets.
I'm running a 600cfm edelbrock now..ill see how it does..but if it does run poorly..I have a stock autolite 2100. Would going to a lower cfm possibly help too?
CFM is a measure of volumetric flow and is not what matters here. What matters is the ratio of air vs. fuel. You are just as likely to have, or not have, the issue with the 2100 as you would with what you're running now.
This is my opinion, but a 600 CFM carburetor is way too big for a straight six. Not only is this carburetor too big for 300 cubic inches, but a straight six does not rev high enough to warrant that much airflow. I am running a 500 CFM Edelbrock on mine. This is about the highest I would go, and I'm still not done tuning it to keep from running too rich.
A 600 CFM carburetor is pretty common on 400's. They have over 30% more displacement, and typically rev higher. A 300 is a low-spinning stump puller by design, and a good one at that.
That 600 Edelbrock may be spot on right out of the box. I've been tuning and mapping the 500 on my truck now and contrary to what I thought going in looks like it needs to run a little richer.
Drive it before you even think about changing anything. If there are no stumbles or flat spots just leave it. If there are it's probably too lean. The manual has good instructions on how to tune the carb if it needs it.
Any pinging might be cleared up by adjusting or changing the vacuum advance can. It should only show up at cruise or slight acceleration from cruise. The replacement can I on my dizzy only advances timing ~10 degrees at full vacuum, less than I've seen from some others.
Well..I bought my eddy used..I was trying and hoping for a 500 but could never find the numbers..it I can..ill try to fine an autolite 4100 with the 1.08 size or and eddy 500 cfm..btw..what is the carb model for the 500?
4100's can be pricey. They often go for $100--$170 on ebay, and still need to be rebuilt.
If you do get a 4100, the 1.08 venturi size, which is 480 cfm, there is some information you need. Ford put the 1.08 on big and small blocks alike--on big blocks for smog reasons. The two models were calibrated differently. What you want originally came on a 289.
I'll keep my eyes and ears peeled for a 4100. If not, i'll look at other carbs, been tinkering with some spreadbores. Anyways, about the spark-knock and pinging. I know I can get the distributor recurved at a local speed shop, but wouldn't all I have to do (If I have any problems) is set the timing, advance where I want it using the static timing method, if it knocks, turn the cap the other way?
In most cases the manifold vacuum will be very low when the secondaries are open. The EGR valve operates on vacuum and is meant to be closed at WOT.
Regards
rikard
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