I love this F truck at the moment, NOT. Now a leaking HPOP. I have been doing research for the last few hrs and have come accross some handy tips. I am not that confident about removing it and doing the seals and non servicable plug but it is just to expensive to get a mechanic to touch it. They all want around 3K to do the job. That is supplying a new HPOP. They don't believe me that there is a reseal kit available. I have a month off over chrissy that I planned to do the bellow up pipes, plenums, air intake manifold, CCV etc. Looks like I will be spending alot more time under the hood than I anticipated. Who is not busy and keen to help. Don't all reply at once, Hahaha.

 

Are you sure it is a leaking HPOP? Chunder found a wet valley in my truck. I thought it was the HPOP but it ended up being that the Aussie ULSD had dissolved the Ford O-rings in the fuel bowl.

A fuel bowl reseal kit with the military spec blue O-rings, from Riff Roff, and follow the Guzzle instructions and it was a fairly easy job to do over a w/e. No more leaks.

The get at the HPOP you have to take the fuel bowl out anyway. If you unscrew the 4 bolts holding on the drain valve and carefully dismantle that. You will be able to quickly tell if the seals are shot. Once you're there you'll be able to make a better call about the HPOP.

Even if you have to by a new T500 HPOP and ship it over you will have change out of your $3k after buying the HPOP, billet plenums & bellowed up-pipes. You may as well do the EBPV delete while you're so close so add a 'delete pedestal' and a 'high flow turbo outlet'.

 

Simon,
I have been shopping every month since april this year, when I decided to order the Bellow up pipes. So Far I have sitting at home in the garage is, AIH, CCV, Banks Ram Air(fitted), High Flow turbo outlet, Banks Big Head Accuator, Pedestol Delete, AFE Blade Runner Intake Manifold, 4 inch DP, New IC Boots, a CCV 4500 System, FRX(Fitted) and Billet Plenums. I had a W/W but Later realised from you blokes that it would be no good due to the truck already having a 38R. I remember when I had my injectors removed and new seal kits put on them that they fixed the drain valve in the fuel bowl as it was leaking badly, to the point you could smell it from time to time whilst driving. I have checked the puddle in the maifold and it seems to be jet black oil. I wish it was a fuel bowl, but I am just not that lucky with this thing.

Interesting thing today, whether it is true or not, but one of the guys reckons my gearbox is shifting soft and hard at times is due to the engine not being able to gain full boost through the leaking bellow up pipes. (both are leaking badly now). Guess I will test his theory out soon enough.

I ordered all the seals I need to reseal the HPOP from Clay today, plus additional seals. I will check the fuel bowl tomorrow but the leak will be hard to find. There isn't a heap of fluid in the manifold, and it doesn't leave spots anywhere you park it.

 

Wallsy, I reckon you're right. Jet black oil, no smell when hot, it's not diesel. If it is not dripping on the floor it can't be a very big leak, but it must be fixed none the less.

You're going to have some fun putting all that stuff on. At least you'll only have to pull it to bits once to fit all that stuff!

I re-fitted my stock up-pipes after re-fitting my turbo after doing the EBPV delete & high flow outlet. They leaked like sieves coating inside the engine bay with black soot that I still find bits of today, a year and many pressure washes later when I reach in the back of the bay. It even blew a hole in the firewall liner.

I never noticed the trans shifting differently with the leaky up-pipes. When I fitted the bellowed up-pipes and got the exhaust all sealed up, the only differences I noticed was more boost and less tackity-tack-tack noises from just in front of the dash. No change in shift 'feel'.

I hope it is just the valve body and the JWVB will fit it up. Unfortunately that is another $300 (16Ltrs) of trans fluid, an $80 pan gasket and a $70 trans filter required just to do the job of fitting that little thing!

 

Simon,
Yeh, not looking foward to the HPOP job. But as you say, I will have pretty much the top rear section of the engine off, why not take the front off as well, hey. I tell you, this truck, if it keeps up with the breakages, it will find itself on ebay!! The wife would love that day I reckon.

I ordered a fuel bowl seal kit from Clay as well today so I will do that at the same time. Nothing worse than having to go back there in a months time and fix something else.

Gearbox will have to wait till next year to be sorted, along with a bigger trans cooler.

 

Myself and another member just addressed this issue on a truck here in Texas. The IPR valve was leaking through worn out o-rings, and that was the source of the oil in his Valley of Death. You will need a REALLY deep socket to get that thing off (1 1/8" here in USA). Rebuilt that in about 15 minutes, and then we did the full reseal on the fuel bowl. That took a couple of hours due to all the cleaning that had to be done. While we had the fuel bowl off, we rebuilt the two outlet ports on the HPOP, which was kind of tricky. Guzzle's instruction were spot on. Replaced the O-ring on the plug on the back as well, but we left the non-serviceable plug alone for the time being. Also replaced the HPO oil lines going to the heads as they were 12 years old, and there are upgraded lines available now that are much stronger and more durable. They are known to blow after 10 years or so of aging whilst making one heck of a mess!

All total with re-assembly, it took us 6 hours (with a break for dinner). Not hard at all. Just pace yourself and take your time. Engine will run rough for a day until all the air is pushed out.

 

Mike,
Thanks for the advice mate. I am going to have a go at replacing all the seals on the HPOP including the non servicable plug as I don't want to go back there again. I might look into new high pressure lines. Never gave them a thought. Mine are original and would be 12 yrs old now. I will also do the fuel bowl reseal at the same time. I reckon all of this along with the other repairs will probably take me 3 days, taking my time and not getting to frustrated with it hopefully.

 

Gonna be doing my own truck in the next week or so. Fuel bowl o-rings, HPOP o-rings, new HPO lines, rebuild all four fittings for the HPO lines, install Riff Raff FRx, replace Turbo pedestal with non-EBPV, install non-EBPV exhaust outlet, check torque on all the hold down bolts on my injectors, and install an IH water pump with the spin-on coolant filter. Will be doing a write up with photos in the 99-03 forum when the water pump is done. This is all preventative maintenance mostly to ensure my Excursion makes it another 10 years and 215k miles.

Looks my 16 year old daughter is gonna be doing a student exchange program to Australia/New Zealand next summer (your winter). I may visit the forum later and pick your brains on that matter later!

 

Just ordered new HPO lines from Clay.I took your advice and decided that I don't want them blowing after repairing the HPOP. I look foward to the write up and photos for your reseal etc. I just have to make sure I don't forget anything before starting mine, as parts down here are not readly available. Any advice I can give you guys, I am happy to do.

 

If necessary Clay will express parts over for you. Express still takes a week though.

Nicmike, start a new thread if your daughter is coming to Aus or NZud on exchange. Funnily enough my 16y.o. daughter wants to go to the States on exchange!

 

Ironic how young adults always want to be someplace else...they usually perceive it to be better everywhere but where they currently are! I will definitely start a new thread in a couple of months.

 

Hi Wallsy
I have just dunn all of those jobs
if your near Newcastle i can help
you will need beer
a good set tools
and take your time

cheers
Rod

 

Rod,
You are only roughly 8hrs away, especially since most of the PHW is now dual carriageway, with the exception of Northern NSW. I have a good tool kit, (that is a must owning one of these trucks). It is me just haveing the patients I guess.

 

If you are going to do all that other stuff pulling the hpop aint that hard. I havent done the plug me self but I have had my hpop off several times. You are going to have to stop the motor from spinning when you go to torque (150lbs) the front gear bolt. I got a piece of 40/3 square hollow and wedged it between the ground and the flywheel teeth. It did the job. Plenty of rags in the valley to get the mess and all is good.

 

Stopping the engine form turning will be a challenge I imagine. Something I will have to think about. When the job is done, it will be good to see a dry valley as it has always had a pool of oil in it since I have owned the truck.