OK guys, finally got the AE in and had time this afternoon to mess with the truck. Here are the codes I got.

P1280 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low.

P0380 Glow plugs/heater circuit A

P0603 Internal control module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) error.

P1316 Injector Driver Module codes detected.

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor)

Where do I start with this? Thanks again guys.

PS: there was 3 more codes for the GEM module but I don't believe they pertain to the problem at hand.

 

0603 is from removing batteries at some point and the PCM powered down fully.
0380 Glow plugs bad for that side or your Glow Plug Control Module is faulty and needs replaced
1280 is saying that Injection Control Pressure was requested to be much higher than it actually is when it got that code on edit so it could be IPR dumping HP oil or bad ICP.
1316 Let's hope that code never comes back after you clear them again. IDM's are pricey.
0340 I am not sure if it is because you have a bad CPS or it is missing once in a while.
Go to live data and use a chart to look at ICP, IPR duty cycle%, RPM, Battery Voltage, Exhaust Back Pressure if it is there. I have my AE loaned out right now and I can not look at it.Trend it on a chart to see which one drops off first when it starts to cut out while running.

 

Ok, makes sense now.

0603 is from disconnecting batteries a couple weeks ago to replace the starter solenoid on the passenger fender.

0380 is probably from the glow plugs quit working a couple weeks ago and I had to put on a new gp relay.

So that narrows it down to the ICP, IPR or the IDM. I will do the live data test like you said tomorrow and let you know how that turns out. My buddy has a spare 7.3 stashed in his shop and I may run over there and rob those parts off of it and take em with me just for grins. Who knows, I may get lucky. Thanks again 1fixitman.

 

Ok, went down to the truck and ran the AE again. First I cleared the codes then ran the truck till it died. About 3 minutes. Only code showing then was the P1316 Injector Control Module codes detected.

I set up a graph to read the following while it was running.

Injector control pressure 720.59 This was bouncing up and down +/- 15
Injector control pressure volts. 1.12 also bouncing up and down +/- .10
Injector control pressure duty cycle 11.33 pretty steady
Exhaust back pressure 15.31

When it died again the Injector control pressure was the first thing to drop off by a split second. Did that twice, same results.

I did a diagnostic self test KOEO and got a code P1668 PCM/IDM communications error. I tried a KOER test and got no communications.

After it died a couple times I checked the codes again and got the P1316 again.

Does this tell you anything? Whats next?

 

I would buzz test it right after it dies to see if any more codes show up. Also, start it and while it's stitting there at idle, wiggle all the wires under the hood, especially the stuff between the IDM and injectors. See if you can find a harness that makes the engine sound or act different. Might also be a good time to break out the multi-meter and ohm everything to see if you pick up anything that way. GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

 

Key on engine off go to on board tests and do the buzz test. Some wire/s are not communicating between the Injector Driver Module and the PCM. The idm is located under the fender on driver's side behind splash guard. Verify the connection by unplugging and plugging it back in. I have been doing hutch mod on my truck until I ran out of light.

 

My truck just did the same thing this morning. It ran fine on the way home from work Friday and when I started my 2001 F250 SD this morning it idled fine for ten minutes or so. Then I got in it and started backing up and it died 20 ft from where it was sitting. It has been sputtering few and far between and I would change my fuel filter and it seemed to work fine for a few weeks. I assumed the fuel pump was going out slowly. I am by no means a mechanic but know enough to tinker with. Anyway, I held down the key and gave it some pedal and it would run until I let the key off and the pedal. I only did this once for about ten seconds thinking I might jack it up more. This sounds somewhat like what you are talking about. I will put a reader to it and post back what is going on. I read this thread and will look around. If anyone has anymore suggestions I would be grateful to read them. Hope your repairs work out.

 

I didn't see a way to do a buzz test. I'm just learning the AE. Any tips on how to do it?

 

There are several tabs in AE. Live data and ON BOARD TESTS are tabs in the software just like tabs in excel or other programs. The tabs are about 1/4-1/3 down from the top of the screen. Put your key in the run/on position. This is a Key On Engine Off test or KOEO. Enure your security dongle is in place and you have selected ENHANCED POWERTRAIN towards the bottom. A lot of these test will not be available without entering Enhanced Powertrain at the very beginning when you log on to the program and connect with the truck. While in enhanced powertrain and you are in the ON BOARD TESTS tab you can select the buzz test. Some of the on board test are for when the engine is running but this buzz test is for when the key is on and the engine is NOT running.

 

I got rained out today so I had some time to work on the truck. I learned a lot about how things work and even made a discovery or two along the way. First let me give a hugh THANK YOU to 1fixitman for talking me thru this and helping me understand what I needed to be doing.

First thing I did was run the AE again and clear the codes. Start the truck, ran a few seconds and died and I rechecked the codes. Same thing. Ran a buzz test on it, Same results. IDM codes detected and IDM/PCM communication error. So I start thinking one of two is not working. I spent about an hour tracing wires, pulling and wiggling connections, checking fuses and swapping relays around. I try again. It starts, it dies. Same results, same codes. Sigh...

So I gave Dwayne a call and he walks me thru getting to the IDM and what I needed to be looking for. I pull the plastic fender liner out. Pull the plug loose from the IDM certain I would find it corroded. No such luck. It was clean as a pin and packed with grease. I hooked it back up and started the truck, same ole same ole. I next checked all the wires from below looking for broken chaffed wires. No such luck. At this point I decided to pull the plug off the PCM since it was easy to get to from the wheel well. It too was clean as a whistle. I next pulled the PCM out and took it apart and removed the tuner from it to check the connection on it. The contacts were squeaky clean and the connection was tight. So I decided to leave the tuner out and put it back together and installed the PCM back in the truck. I cleared all the codes with the AE and started the truck. It ran 10 seconds and died. I checked the codes and made a discovery. The IDM codes detected was still there but the IDM/PCM communication error code was gone. The tuner was what's keeping the PCM from retrieving the IDM codes. I ran a buzz test next and made another discovery. Now I'm hearing loud buzzing noises under the hood that I've never heard with the other buzz tests I did, (keep in mind, I've never done this before so I really didn't know what to expect from a buzz test). Apparently the tuner was also keeping the AE from actually buzzing the injectors. Plus I now have 3 new codes that it retrieved from the IDM.

Here are those codes:
P1277 clyinder #7 low to high open
P1293 Injector high side open bank 1
P1294 Injector high side open bank 2

I then stood beside the engine so I could hear better and ran a couple more buzz test so I could compare the buzzes.

One long strong buzz.
cyl 1 strong buzz
cyl 2 slightly weaker but not much
cyl 3 slightly weaker than 2
cyl 4 strong as 1
cyl 5 strong as 4 but more clicking noise than buzz
cyl 6 kinda weak, about like 3
cyl 7 very weak, barely buzz at all
cly 8 bout like 6 and 3

So, with my new found info what do you guys think now? I almost hate to say it but I'm beginning to think UVCH?

Sorry for the long winded post but I figure the more detail yall have the better to help me with this.

 

There are a few things to check with this info.
UVCH. Very specifically after you get the covers off you need to VERY CAREFULLY unplug the UVCH and look at the center pin and all other pins to see if they are burnt/charred. If they are burnt or charred you are going to need a new valve cover gasket and possibly a new harness. Your IDM is firing so the connections that can be the problem are the 9 pin plug outside the valve cover, the UVCH 9 pin connector and the 42 pin connection right on top of your DRIVER'S side valve cover.
1. 42 PIN CONNECTOR. This is something outside of the valve cover that you can verify that does not take much time. I believe it is a 8 or 10 mm bolt(You need a socket to get it loose, that holds the connector together. Like I said before, it is located on top of the Driver's side valve cover. Take the connector apart and have some of that electrical grease on hand for putting it back together. First thing to inspect after it is disconnected is the wires on the bottom of the bundle of wires that are in direct contact with the valve cover. Most of these wires on the bottom go to the injectors. Look for any chaffing or worn thru wires. Have some electrical tape to tape up the wires on both side of the connection even if you don't find any chaffing to prevent any future event. Put some grease inside the connectors for when you reconnect it later.
2. Your buzz test indicates weak or clicking on 3, 5, 7. The 9 pin pinout is as follows:
G-G-I-I-C-I-I-G-G where G=Glow plug C=Common for injector for that side(High side) I=low side for injector.
Unplug the ;lug on the OUTSIDE of the valve cover on the passenger side. There are lots of hoses and wires in the way so it is not the best place to work so be dilligent. You need a meter that reads resistance. Having at least one alligator clip to connect to the center pin really, really helps for this check. Using a meter on resistance/ohms set to the lowest setting place one lead(the one with the alligator clip) on the C pin and one at the time place the other lead on each of the I pins. What is the reading for each. You should be below 5 ohms for each check on the injector pins. Most people get 2.5-3.5 ohms
Now for the Glow plug pin check. Place one lead with alligator clip on a ground on the engine or on the battery negative terminal and place the other lead one at a time on each of the G pins. These readings should be below 2 ohms each. Most people get 0.5-1.0 ohms.
If any of your readings are any higher then you need to remove the cac pipe and get into that valve cover. I will copy and paste the UVCH check and how to get into the valve covers in the next post. I hope others will see this and chime in to verify what I am having you check.
Dwayne

 

Really pay attention for burnt pins on the Harness when you get under the valve covers. If burnt then you will need a new valve cover gasket and new harness. They can be had here in the next two links. If they are only slightly charred then you might get away with reconnecting them.You will get them much quicker than ordering from Riffraff as he is still swamped from the black friday orders. I am in training today but will be available by cell if you need me until 3pm EST or the work number after 3pm EST.
Under Valve Cover Wiring Harness Genuine Ford Motorcraft UVC harness
VALVE COVER GASKET 1999 - 2003 Ford 7.3L Diesel

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.<V</V
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work.<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shape style="WIDTH: 19.5pt; HEIGHT: 21pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_2 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0031.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1027"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0031" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image002.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage<v:shape style="WIDTH: 45pt; HEIGHT: 30pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_3 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/party0005.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1026"> <v:imagedata o:title="party0005" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image003.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership <v:shape style="WIDTH: 48.75pt; HEIGHT: 37.5pt; VISIBILITY: visible; mso-wrap-style: square" id=Picture_x0020_4 type="#_x0000_t75" alt="http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/sick0021.gif" o:spid="_x0000_i1025"><v:imagedata o:title="sick0021" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\DOTSON~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01 \clip_image004.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne

 

Post 20 thru 23 could have saved alot of time. Word of note, if you have a chip installed, remove it before troubleshooting. Chips can cause alot of weird things.

 

I suggested it several posts back but it is what it is now. Time for one side if you don't mess around is 45 min to 1.5 hours with no interrupts.

 

OH well. One thing about it, I know what's not wrong with it. LOL. It's no big deal really. I had much rather find out this way than I would by blowing the biggest part of a day taking the valve covers off then finding out that wasn't the problem. Besides, I'm used to learning the hard way.

Thanks again 1fixitman. It will probably be this weekend before I have time to get back to it. I'll let you know how it goes.