I may have found my problem. I've been doing some research on the IPR. I finally ran across a picture of it and I see the tin nut in the pic that everyone talks about. When I looked at mine I don't remember seeing that. When I was looking at it I really had no idea what I was looking for so I could of easily overlooked it. I'm gonna try to swing by there after work tomorrow and check it again now that I know what I'm looking for.

 

If it is not there then look in the valley below it. Also there is a spacer that the nut tightens against that should also be there. Both of the items look like this. If the spacer is off and you find it then the large end goes on toward the coil or towards the HPOP. Good Day.
#14-007 IPR Re-Seal kit 94-03 7.3L Diesel - Sensors and Backpressure Tubes/Parts - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L

 

Yes, that's what I was talking about on 11/24 (Post #10). As 1fixitman stated, look in the valley...actually valleys. If it doesn't have the spacer, then you'll have to buy the kit from either Diesel-Orings or Riff Raff...or if in a hurry, you can get it at your local Ford Parts department. Nut goes on at 53 INCH pounds, and you can use some BLUE loctite to keep it on.

 

Well, looks like I was wrong again. The tin nut is there and it is tight. Anyone have any sugguestions what to check next?

Review of what's been done so far.
Engine oil is full and 1500 miles on the change.
Tried 2 new cps's with the one in it now being brand new from Ford.
Checked the IPC plug, no oil in it, clean as a pin.
Checked the fuel flow, getting a steady stream out the filter drain.
Blew the fuel line out from the pump to the tank. Plenty of fuel in the tank.
Checked the tin nut on the IPR. It's in place and tight.
Batteries are good and hot, alternator about a month old replaced with a brand new one not rebuilt.
Called everyone I know and the only one that can read the codes is the dealer.

 

Sounds like your UVCH connector might be loose and in need of the .50 cent mod.

 

A buzz test with AE would verify the UVCH or you can do the 50 cent mod. Both Under Valve Cover Harness' would have to be mostly unplugged to cause this. If you had AE and you were looking at IPR duty cycle, Injection Control Pressure(ICP) and RPM......If you had about 500-600 Psi on ICP, 15-20% duty cycle and between 125-200 RPM then I would possibly look under your valve covers. But no way to get live data unless the guy a hundred miles away gets paid at least fuel, a meal and a few beverages of choice to drive out and scan for you. If one of your injector O-rings on the oil side is bad or the IPR is stuck/leaking by either the orings on the IPR or the control pin is clogged.
Looking under your valve covers is free. The two quarters will cost you 50 cent. You need some way to cut the flat edge on the quarters. I used a cutoff tool with an air compressor.
You can do the 50 cent mod and I am not saying it is not an issue but I don't think it will cause you to have a no start condition. I am not calling Rob out because the 50 cent mod will save you much heartache in the future but if less injectors are firing and all of your orings are good then your duty cycle on the IPR will be very low and ICP should be at steady levels for a high RPM due to less demand for oil from the HPOP with less injectors firing. I hope this makes sense. I think it is PCM not giving signal to IDM, IDM not firing the injectors, HPOP not putting out high enough pressure, IPR allowing all pressure to drain back to the sump/oil pan or really bad orings on the HPO side of one or multiple injectors. We need data to keep from having you spend money on the wrong sensor/s. If both of your UVCH connectors are mostly unclipped/unplugged then at least a few of the injectors would still fire and turn over the engine real rough. The only way it would keep the truck from starting is if it was a UVCH issue is if it is VERY COLD like it is now AND a majority of the Glow Plugs were not able to heat up due to being unplugged at the UVCH.
Do you drive on bumpy roads and offroad a lot? That can cause your UVCH to come loose much quicker than the average truck. The truck would have had the SES light coming on and off multiple times each drive and a very reduced power level and rough running. Did you have any of these conditions prior to the no start?
We need live data so we can send you to the source of the problem.
I hope the above explanation of HPO and less injectors creating more than enough pressure to push fuel into the engine makes sense. I am not here to start any argument. I am only here to help the OP to repair his vehicle and get back on the road again. I apologize if I have stepped on any body's toes. I will post up the 50 cent mod write up that I wrote up just in case you still want to do this mod. The video in the write up will show you how you need to cut the quarters and how to place them into the clips.
And my write up that I will copy and paste below for the 50 cent mod. Sorry about the large print. I guess that is how large it is in microsoft word on my computer. This mod mostly cost you time.....not so much money.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> In short. The 50 cent mod is done to keep the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) plugged in properly, clipped into place and a quarter(25 cent piece) placed under the plastic clip to keep it clipped. This is one of the classic 7.3L problems. Now the details below. It KEEPS ALL INJECTORS and GLOW PLUGS plugged in and FIRING or turning on when necessary. You can be running on 2-7 cylinders based on wether the plugs under the valve covers are plugged in all the way or NOT. You can also have very hard starts from the glow plugs not being plugged in and only a few heating up.

You know I have to pop in here and ask if the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) connector has been looked at and the 50 cent mod done? 50 cent mod video here

How to do it written down from my post in another thread. The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 quart pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up while the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership
It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne
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Does it have a chip? If so remove and try it. Sounds like a problem I had.

 

Nice detailed post Dwayne. If you were referring to me about stepping on toes, dont worry about it. I just through that out there about the UVCH because I didn't see it mentioned and its a cheap mod. Now if the center pin is burnt on the 9 pin connector can that cause a no start? But like you said we need data to help this guy along.

 

1fixitman. Wow, that's a lot of good info. Thank you very much. Unfortunately I don't have time to go thru all that right now unless I knew it would fix the truck. The way I read your post you don't really think that is the problem. So, the way I see it is I have two options. One, tow it to the dealer and have them fix it or two, order the AE and find out what is wrong. For what the tow and dealer diagnosis is gonna cost I could just buy the AE. So AE it is. I'm going to call Clay in a few and get it on the way. I will let you know what it says when it gets here in a few days.

 

Novice. The truck has a dptuner with e60 and t60. Think that could be it?

 

.

Rob the truck is starting just fine for the most part. It will run 15 to 30 seconds or so then just die like the key was turned off but all lights, radio, heater keeps on working. Hit the starter and it fires right back up then repeats.

 

I had a superchip and I found it was interfering with the signal from the cps to the computer. I removed it and the truck ran fine, replaced it with a downloader tuner. I have had no trouble since. Might be worth a try, if it isn't your problem you can easily reinstall.

 

Galute, also know that you need a pc based laptop to load AE on. If you already have one then good. I purchased a 50$ dell inspiron that was built in 2007 with a good battery from crags list. The guy had a few computers for 200-300$ and I just called him and asked if he had something cheap without wireless. Out comes a old dell with corners chipped and one working usb port. I purchased a usb hub for a few dollars from best buy and I was ready to go. You need two usb ports. One for the security dongle and the other to plug in the scanner module that reads the truck. Keep that in mind. Write down all of the codes when it first reads then clear them out. Go to on board tests and do buzz test. Do all 8 BUZZ? BUZZ? THEN LIVE DATA.

 

Oh yeah. Make sure you charge the batteries fully in the truck.

 

Ok I got it now. I guess I should have went back and re-read your post again. Thanks for setting me straight.