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Need help getting engine turned over.

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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #16  
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I left ours to soak two years ago when I went on holidays for two weeks . When I got back it was fairly easy to get apart . My point is patience and penetrating oil should be your tools of choice on this job not brute force . IMHO
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #17  
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Spot on Allan!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 05:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by maestro1024
Thanks guys, I tried just a little more today but had the same response.

I did put some more ATF in the plugs. I think I need to get some more atf and completely fill until the fluid comes and stays all the way to the top (right?).

Also, how does the bolt on the pulley work. I would not have expect to be able to turn the bolt without turn the crankshaft. Have I broke it? Or does it turn and torque and eventually tighten up enough to turn the crankshaft (assuming I don't snap the head off)?

X2 on 50/50 acetone/ATF. it's better than any I have found and the military has used it for years.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #19  
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Still haven't got this crank to turn. I pulled the head off the last weekend. And the thing was pretty dry (even though I put ATF down the plug holes). I didn't have any more atf but I put some pb blaster and oil up on the pistons and cylinders.

My problem now is I have stripped that bolt some. Can I just screw the old bolt out and screw a new one in?

Also, I was wonder about putting a battery in there and seeing if that would turn the engine (or is that not going to work)?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #20  
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It is time to pull that engine and rebuild it or replace it.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 12:47 AM
  #21  
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I second that, time to yank the engine.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #22  
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My flathead was stuck so I pulled the intake and heads to get a better feel for things. It was quite clean and not rusted looking so I filled each cylinder with PB blaster soaked each valve spring and guide assy, next I filled the lower end with PB blaster through the valley...let it sit for a week or so, but would re-spray each component every other day, then wait. It took about a month for it to finally free up, turns out that a couple of the valve guides were frozen/stuck that finally let go and freed up. Be patient my friend it will eventually come free.
Good luck,
w
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:03 AM
  #23  
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When I got the head off I put more oil down on the pistons and it went down in like a minute. My buddy was saying that means the rings are bad (does that sound right)?

I am going to put a new crankshaft bolt and give it one more try and if that doesn't work. My buddy is going to help me pull it. And then I will attempt to rebuild it. I have never done an engine rebuild but seems like a good chance to learn.

Can anyone help me find the service manual for the 48 straight 6?
I see one for the v8 but not the 6.

If I have to pull and rebuild this I am going to need as much info as possible.

Any other good info on a rebuild, if I go down that path.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:31 AM
  #24  
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I hope that the crankshaft hole is not stripped out. Best get a tap and gently chase the threads.
I assume that it was in neutral. If not, it would be darn hard to turn over.
Pull oil drain plug briefly and see if the crankcase is full of water. If it is, pull it.
Try to turn engine over by the flywheel if possible. The crank's bolt should never be over torqued. It's not something that you want to re-thread on a whim.
Good luck. Let us know how it comes along.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by cruisetopdown
My flathead was stuck ... turns out that a couple of the valve guides were frozen/stuck that finally let go and freed up.
Maestro, Based on your description of oil draining past the rings quickly, I'd bet it's the valves that are the problem as it was for Wade. Forcing it will break or bend something. Pull the valve side cover off and at least look it over, shoot more penetrant right on the guides and lifters. As was already siad, no real good can come of forcing things, you could turn a good engine (or one needing a little work) into scrap metal.

If it's that stuck from corrosion or goo, do you really want to run it with no real oil filter? All the debris will go right thru the bearings. You'll get to hear it run for a few minutes and spend the next year and $$$$ repairing the damage. Bite the bullet, pull it out, IMHO.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #26  
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I need to get a manual I guess. I see "early Ford" parts has a shop manual for the fseries 49-52 for $35. I have a 48, is this the same shop manual?

Is there a better or cheaper version some place?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 08:33 AM
  #27  
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1948 ford truck shop manual | eBay
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #28  
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I'm still a little confused with this truck. I think it is a 48 but a lot of the documentation (like this manual) starts at 49.

Did they make fewer of the 48s? Is it like a 64 and a half mustang?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by maestro1024
I'm still a little confused with this truck. I think it is a 48 but a lot of the documentation (like this manual) starts at 49.

Did they make fewer of the 48s? Is it like a 64 and a half mustang?
You really won't find much difference between '48 and '49.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 09:13 PM
  #30  
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I agree with The Horvaths and Ross, don't try to force it anymore and tap your crank to clean the threads but DON'T try turning it over with the bolt (or a new bolt) anymore. It sounds like it time to just go ahead and get it rebuilt before you do damage to it. If you must try to turn it again, try what 1952henry said in post #12. Ross has a good point, if whatever has it stuck gets into the bearings or elsewhere it may cause more damage.
 
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