Charging Issue.
Charging Issue.
First off this is my first post and I did search around before posting to make sure I wasn't repeating another thread with the same question/problem. If I over looked another thread with the answer let me know 
my Truck is a 2007 Ranger fx4 w/ 4.0L sohc v6 & 120,000kms, I bought it from a dealer and I am the second owner @102,000kms just over 6 months ago. *new battery installed by the dealer
The problem started the other morning on the way to work when all my lights, gauges started to dim and just made it to work before it died. I was 100% certain my alternator had just gone as I had the alternator in my first truck (96 ranger) go on me as well.
Jumpstarted and charged the battery to try and get it home. Made it about half-way before everything but the engine had shut off,after another 5 mins all of a sudden it came back to life, and stayed normal till I got home.
I figured the brushes were probably worn and had come out of contact. Took the old alternator out and sure enough the brushes were pretty worn but it was also quite dirty. I cleaned out the dirt with a dry cloth put it back in, charged the battery. Started up fine, everything was working. I took it for a drive around the neighborhood for 40mins. Everything was still normal. I took it out a second time about an hour later, and it lasted 15mins before dying again.
I went and got Refurbished alternator from Canadian Tire (last place open), put it in. Took it out for another drive and it died within 15mins again... this time only I noticed is when the truck was pretty much dead I start hearing a clicking noise that is coming from the fuse panel by the floor on the passenger side.
Only things I can think of now are a bad connection between the alternator and the battery (short,loose etc.). And Im not sure what the clicking noise coming from the fuse panel is.
Where should I look/trouble shoot now?
Thanks guys!

my Truck is a 2007 Ranger fx4 w/ 4.0L sohc v6 & 120,000kms, I bought it from a dealer and I am the second owner @102,000kms just over 6 months ago. *new battery installed by the dealer
The problem started the other morning on the way to work when all my lights, gauges started to dim and just made it to work before it died. I was 100% certain my alternator had just gone as I had the alternator in my first truck (96 ranger) go on me as well.
Jumpstarted and charged the battery to try and get it home. Made it about half-way before everything but the engine had shut off,after another 5 mins all of a sudden it came back to life, and stayed normal till I got home.
I figured the brushes were probably worn and had come out of contact. Took the old alternator out and sure enough the brushes were pretty worn but it was also quite dirty. I cleaned out the dirt with a dry cloth put it back in, charged the battery. Started up fine, everything was working. I took it for a drive around the neighborhood for 40mins. Everything was still normal. I took it out a second time about an hour later, and it lasted 15mins before dying again.
I went and got Refurbished alternator from Canadian Tire (last place open), put it in. Took it out for another drive and it died within 15mins again... this time only I noticed is when the truck was pretty much dead I start hearing a clicking noise that is coming from the fuse panel by the floor on the passenger side.
Only things I can think of now are a bad connection between the alternator and the battery (short,loose etc.). And Im not sure what the clicking noise coming from the fuse panel is.
Where should I look/trouble shoot now?
Thanks guys!
Welcome to FTE.
You've been busy on this one. I agree, the intermittent condition, with it suddenly coming back to life, sorta smacks of an electrical connection problem. Does the volt meter read low, or the battery warning light turn on???? If so, check the alternator field fuse connection in the underhood power distribution box, to make sure its plugged in good & no corrosion on its electrical connections.
If that checks out ok, seeing as how the battery dies, & the engine stalls, it would suggest to me that it may be in the battery cables somewhere, as the alternator, if putting out, should be able to run the engine & keep the battery charged, once the engine is started & running.
SO, have a close look at the alternator & battery cables condition & the connectors on both ends. The connections on both ends need to be Clean, Bright & Tight. The cable connections on both ends, where they bond/connect to the cable wire strands, need to be sound. No corrosion, looseness, broken insulation, or corrosion around the lug or clamp fittings. If there is a bulge under the cable insulation at the lug/clamp connections, suspect corrosion, or broken wire strands underneath.
Get it running & with an electrical load on, like lights, ect, feel the cable connections to see if they're warm/hot, then wiggle the battery cables & altenator connections to see if you get a response & make sure they're not loose, corroded, ect. Then using your multimeter, do a voltage drop test across the cable connections, or any suspects. If your not familar with doing voltage drop testing, there are instructions in the "Battery Tutorial" thread link atop this forum.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.
You've been busy on this one. I agree, the intermittent condition, with it suddenly coming back to life, sorta smacks of an electrical connection problem. Does the volt meter read low, or the battery warning light turn on???? If so, check the alternator field fuse connection in the underhood power distribution box, to make sure its plugged in good & no corrosion on its electrical connections.
If that checks out ok, seeing as how the battery dies, & the engine stalls, it would suggest to me that it may be in the battery cables somewhere, as the alternator, if putting out, should be able to run the engine & keep the battery charged, once the engine is started & running.
SO, have a close look at the alternator & battery cables condition & the connectors on both ends. The connections on both ends need to be Clean, Bright & Tight. The cable connections on both ends, where they bond/connect to the cable wire strands, need to be sound. No corrosion, looseness, broken insulation, or corrosion around the lug or clamp fittings. If there is a bulge under the cable insulation at the lug/clamp connections, suspect corrosion, or broken wire strands underneath.
Get it running & with an electrical load on, like lights, ect, feel the cable connections to see if they're warm/hot, then wiggle the battery cables & altenator connections to see if you get a response & make sure they're not loose, corroded, ect. Then using your multimeter, do a voltage drop test across the cable connections, or any suspects. If your not familar with doing voltage drop testing, there are instructions in the "Battery Tutorial" thread link atop this forum.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how your trouble shoot goes.
Thanks for the reply pawpaw.
So I went through and inspected the battery cables and connections, everything there was just fine. Same for the alternator fuse.
I did a voltage test on the battery, and a drop test on the connections and the "new" alternator. It turns out the rebuilt alternator was a dud! I returned it this morning and went to another autoshop to get a new one, installed it. Everything is working perfectly now.
Thanks again for the help!
So I went through and inspected the battery cables and connections, everything there was just fine. Same for the alternator fuse.
I did a voltage test on the battery, and a drop test on the connections and the "new" alternator. It turns out the rebuilt alternator was a dud! I returned it this morning and went to another autoshop to get a new one, installed it. Everything is working perfectly now.
Thanks again for the help!
Glad to hear it is fixed. FYI. Never leave a parts store with a new alternator or starter unless it has been tested in the store. Had a Western Auto store go through 6 Alts one time before they found a good one.
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harrisford
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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Dec 23, 2012 09:29 AM








