replacing the FPR
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 122
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From: VA
replacing the FPR
I plan on replacing the FPR this afternoon and was wondering if there were any tricks to it. Looks pretty simple but all I have done is look at the new one and the old one and it should be real simple.
Also, do I need to disconnect the battery to reset the computer after installing it (like with an 02 sensor)?
Thanks,
Also, do I need to disconnect the battery to reset the computer after installing it (like with an 02 sensor)?
Thanks,
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
Likes: 4
From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
replacing the FPR
What's an FPR?
INLINE SIX POWER!
'95 F150 XL
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."
INLINE SIX POWER!
'95 F150 XL300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
Likes: 4
From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
replacing the FPR
Sorry, I don't know, but someone just did it. See post in the inline six forum. https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID9/1863.html You could ask him how he did it. Maybe the same for your engine as the 302.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Greenwood In. USA
replacing the FPR
I changed mine about 2 months ago 92 F150 302.
Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity to get the allen screws back in.
It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
Regards
Gasman
Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity to get the allen screws back in.
It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
Regards
Gasman
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario Canada
replacing the FPR
>I changed mine about 2 months ago 92 F150 302.
>Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and
>have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust
>manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is
>a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity
>to get the allen screws back in.
>It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
>
>Gasman
Gasman, did you perform any pressure tests before changing the regulator? I did the tests and everything was within spec, however my regulator is original (from an '88 engine). Just wondering if your's tested within spec before the change.
Thanks.
>Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and
>have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust
>manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is
>a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity
>to get the allen screws back in.
>It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
>
>Gasman
Gasman, did you perform any pressure tests before changing the regulator? I did the tests and everything was within spec, however my regulator is original (from an '88 engine). Just wondering if your's tested within spec before the change.
Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 1
From: Lee's Summit MO
replacing the FPR
>I changed mine about 2 months ago 92 F150 302.
>Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and
>have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust
>manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is
>a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity
>to get the allen screws back in.
>It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
>
>Regards
>Gasman
How did you get it off there? Do you really have to remove the entire fuel injection railing?
'93 F-150 loaded and modified!
Check my Gallery
>Just bleed down the line pressure at the schrader valve and
>have at it. I did mine cold as to not have hot exhaust
>manifolds. But I did not disconnect the battery but that is
>a good idea. It takes some patience and a little dexterity
>to get the allen screws back in.
>It made a big differnce in my performance and idle.
>
>Regards
>Gasman
How did you get it off there? Do you really have to remove the entire fuel injection railing?
'93 F-150 loaded and modified!
Check my Gallery
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: VA
replacing the FPR
I can tell that the far back allen screw is gonna be a 
. What is the procedure for bleeding the valve at the shrader valve? I can get to the two closest allen screws but the back one is gonna take some patience. I started on the front two but the motor was still a little warm so I decided to wait and give it a try later on. It started to rain too so I figured it could wait. I did not begin to bleed the line at the shrader valve though. Is that where that little clip is to the right of the fuel pressure regulator?
I haven't checked the fuel pressure but I have a new fuel pump (only one tank) so I feel sure that is o.k. I figured this may help the intermittent rough idle, stumble, and hesitation. It comes and goes.
Thanks once again for the help thus far.
. What is the procedure for bleeding the valve at the shrader valve? I can get to the two closest allen screws but the back one is gonna take some patience. I started on the front two but the motor was still a little warm so I decided to wait and give it a try later on. It started to rain too so I figured it could wait. I did not begin to bleed the line at the shrader valve though. Is that where that little clip is to the right of the fuel pressure regulator?I haven't checked the fuel pressure but I have a new fuel pump (only one tank) so I feel sure that is o.k. I figured this may help the intermittent rough idle, stumble, and hesitation. It comes and goes.
Thanks once again for the help thus far.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 122
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From: VA
replacing the FPR
>>>
>How did you get it off there? Do you really have to remove
>the entire fuel injection railing?
I don't plan on taking off the entire fuel rail. It is just 3 allen screws, 1/8" I believe, but the back one is hard to get to.
>How did you get it off there? Do you really have to remove
>the entire fuel injection railing?
I don't plan on taking off the entire fuel rail. It is just 3 allen screws, 1/8" I believe, but the back one is hard to get to.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa Ontario Canada
replacing the FPR
>I can tell that the far back allen screw is gonna be a
>. What is the procedure for bleeding the valve at the
>shrader valve? I can get to the two closest allen screws
>but the back one is gonna take some patience. I started on
D Ray, do you have a Haynes manual? It covers all the steps. The suggested way (so as not to spill any gas) is to start the engine, pop the initia switch (located just above the and to the left of the brake pedal) with a screw driver (insert in the openning and lift up). Fuel pump will then be cut off, engine will stall. Then crank it a few more times to get rid of any pressure.
Alternatively you can just press the scharder valve, but then you may have gas spraying around.
Remember to reset the initia switch (press down on it).
>
. What is the procedure for bleeding the valve at the >shrader valve? I can get to the two closest allen screws
>but the back one is gonna take some patience. I started on
D Ray, do you have a Haynes manual? It covers all the steps. The suggested way (so as not to spill any gas) is to start the engine, pop the initia switch (located just above the and to the left of the brake pedal) with a screw driver (insert in the openning and lift up). Fuel pump will then be cut off, engine will stall. Then crank it a few more times to get rid of any pressure.
Alternatively you can just press the scharder valve, but then you may have gas spraying around.
Remember to reset the initia switch (press down on it).
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 3
From: Greenwood In. USA
replacing the FPR
No I didnt check the pressure. But with 130,000 mi Thought it was a good maintainence item. I have a switch wired in between the inertia switch and the pumps. I shut it off and run it dry then tried starting it a couple times. I then put a rag around the schrader a push down on the ball. There was still a lot of pressure though.
I used a regular hex key and one I cut the bend off of. Yes the back one is a XXXXX but just be patient.
Regards
Gasman
I used a regular hex key and one I cut the bend off of. Yes the back one is a XXXXX but just be patient.
Regards
Gasman
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
replacing the FPR
What is the cost of a new regulator? Is it a dealer-only part? My '92 302/Auto runs like it is not getting enough fuel when pulling a long grade. It runs OK around town, but the idle is rough. I've changed O2 sensor, plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor and the fuel filter a few times without any improvement. A mechanic found a code for a bad EGR solenoid so I changed the solenoid without any better running. The truck only has 37,000 miles so I'm surprised to have things going bad now, but maybe age, not miles is a factor. I just bought it and it looked like the fuel filter had never been changed (I've changed it twice since I bought it).
Thanks in advance for the help.
'92 F-150 4WD
'94 Explorer 4WD
'92 Ranger 4WD
'95 Ford-based Motorhome
Thanks in advance for the help.
'92 F-150 4WD
'94 Explorer 4WD
'92 Ranger 4WD
'95 Ford-based Motorhome
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: VA
replacing the FPR
The cost was around $20 but I got it from Trak Auto here in central VA and since they are going out of business, everything was 30-50% off. It was a great time to pick up parts and supplies.
I wouldn't have gotten the back one if it werent for gasman6674's advice on cutting the allen wrench. THANKS!! Also, have a magnet ready to pick up the allen screws when you drop them 25 times.
It didn't solve my problem but it didn't hurt anything replacing it either. Next is the TPS and then a new computer if that doesn't work. Any idea of the cost of a computer?
I wouldn't have gotten the back one if it werent for gasman6674's advice on cutting the allen wrench. THANKS!! Also, have a magnet ready to pick up the allen screws when you drop them 25 times.
It didn't solve my problem but it didn't hurt anything replacing it either. Next is the TPS and then a new computer if that doesn't work. Any idea of the cost of a computer?