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did you have this problem before the intake manifold gasket was replaced? that would be my guess. the IM gasket or the upper plenum gasket. if thet are breached, it will be a vacuum leak and cause high idle. a way you can test for this(not always accurate) is to get some wd40 for carbcleaner and spray around the base of the the manifolds and see if this affects the idle. the fluid will temporarily 'plug' the whole in the gasket if there is one. you can also get a cheap hand pump vacuum gauge from autozone or oreillys and hook it up to where the pcv valve line goes into to upper intake. see if it will hold vacuum. that can eliminate the thought of a vacuum leak if it holds a small about of vacuum for 5 minutes or so. dont pump it up to high.
It has always had a high idle but has only gotten worse even though those gaskets have been replaced twice in the 3 years I've had the truck. I thought it was the idle air control valve but a full functioning used one did not solve the problem. I will scan the truck for codes and post them
did you have this problem before the intake manifold gasket was replaced? that would be my guess. the IM gasket or the upper plenum gasket. if thet are breached, it will be a vacuum leak and cause high idle. a way you can test for this(not always accurate) is to get some wd40 for carbcleaner and spray around the base of the the manifolds and see if this affects the idle. the fluid will temporarily 'plug' the whole in the gasket if there is one. you can also get a cheap hand pump vacuum gauge from autozone or oreillys and hook it up to where the pcv valve line goes into to upper intake. see if it will hold vacuum. that can eliminate the thought of a vacuum leak if it holds a small about of vacuum for 5 minutes or so. dont pump it up to high.
rla2005 told me that since the truck dropped significantly to about 500 rom when I unplugged the iac, it is probably sensor or electrical. I have a brand new map and tps sensor on it now. I am thinking more and more it may be the ecu but the truck has no other electrical problems besides the power locks not working so I am not confident its the ecu
The only code I was able to pull with the Key off Engine off test was 67. Park/ Neutral circuit fault (weird since I have a manual trans) The stored code was 111- everything ok
Code 67: Neutral safety circuit failure or A/C circuit was on during Self-Test.
Even though Ryan's site shows Code 67 as A/C circuit was on during KOER Self-Test, my Ford manual shows it is a KOEO code. Therefore if you had the A/C or Defrost on when running the KOEO tests you would have generated that error.
As I have pointed out before if the engine RPM drops down below normal idle RPM or stalls when the IAC is disconnected you more than likely do not have a vacuum leak.
I am pretty sure I have tossed out the idea you have a sensor causing the problem. I also think I stated the sensor could pass the KOEO/KOER tests but still not output the proper signal at normal operating temperatures. There are a few ways to troubleshoot this, one is disconnect each one then see if the idle RPM comes down or measure the sensor with a meter with the engine cold then once again when it is warmed up. That way you know for sure what you are working with.
If that is inconclusive it may be time to pull out the PCM and inspect it for signs of leaking capacitors and/or burn marks.
Code 67: Neutral safety circuit failure or A/C circuit was on during Self-Test.
Even though Ryan's site shows Code 67 as A/C circuit was on during KOER Self-Test, my Ford manual shows it is a KOEO code. Therefore if you had the A/C or Defrost on when running the KOEO tests you would have generated that error.
As I have pointed out before if the engine RPM drops down below normal idle RPM or stalls when the IAC is disconnected you more than likely do not have a vacuum leak.
I am pretty sure I have tossed out the idea you have a sensor causing the problem. I also think I stated the sensor could pass the KOEO/KOER tests but still not output the proper signal at normal operating temperatures. There are a few ways to troubleshoot this, one is disconnect each one then see if the idle RPM comes down or measure the sensor with a meter with the engine cold then once again when it is warmed up. That way you know for sure what you are working with.
If that is inconclusive it may be time to pull out the PCM and inspect it for signs of leaking capacitors and/or burn marks.
I had all climate options off when running the test. I will try disconnecting the sensors one at a time at operating temperature. However, the IAC sensor is the only sensor that affects the idle that is not out of the box new. I could try replacing it with a new but the blades turn fine in it. Since a new one s around 100 dollars, I will try inspecting the pcm first. If I unplug it, will I have any problems when I reconnect it and go to start the truck. I would assume not
Just because the other parts you threw at this problem are new does not mean they are good.
You will not have any starting issues related unplugging/plugging in the PCM. Just be careful when you push the connector back on to not bend any pins.
I had an emergency gas leak the other day bad out of the rear filler neck tube so gas was squirting everywhere. Being busy with summer classes and work, I let my mechanic fix it and I asked him to look at the idle. He soaked the IAC valve in his parts washer and cleaned it better than I had. After surging to 2000 rpm briefly after the first start, it seems to idle as it should now for the first time in my ownership. I'm calling it done!
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