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Viagra, the wife wanted me to inquire about getting some Viagra. I told her I would be too embarrassed to go ask about it. So, she went to the local pharmacy to see about it.
She asked the Pharmacist if it worked as she had seen on the TV ads. He told her he used it and went into great detail about its merits. She had heard enough of that and told him so. She said she had one more question about it and asked, "Can you get it over the counter?" He answered , "Maybe I could if I took 2 or 3 ."
Gary, you'd be so stylin' and have all the kids jealous.
Seriously though, I've been following this thread and have the same problems in my truck, dim gauges. It was mentioned earlier to pull the blue lenses and use colored bulbs.
In the turn signals of my car, it has the amber colored bulbs and the coating is baking off and falling off the bulb. They look more clear now and have amber flakes all over inside the housing.
Do the 194 and 168 bulbs have the same problems?
I would like to keep the blue tint, but don't want to be replacing bulbs all the time because the coating comes off.
Gary, you'd be so stylin' and have all the kids jealous.
Seriously though, I've been following this thread and have the same problems in my truck, dim gauges. It was mentioned earlier to pull the blue lenses and use colored bulbs.
In the turn signals of my car, it has the amber colored bulbs and the coating is baking off and falling off the bulb. They look more clear now and have amber flakes all over inside the housing.
Do the 194 and 168 bulbs have the same problems?
I would like to keep the blue tint, but don't want to be replacing bulbs all the time because the coating comes off.
Great job on all the info guys!!
Good question about the colored bulbs. I'd like to know that as well. And, I'd like to know where to get the bulbs at a reasonable cost. I've found them for $2.45/ea and then lots of shipping costs. Amazon doesn't seem to have them, so???
Originally Posted by truckertrav
I think the LED's around the exhaust pipes are too much,Gary.
On the other hand though,,,,I'm thinking you ought to try an old set of the spring type CURB FEELERS......
Ah shucks! I had my heart set on red LED's on the exhausts. But, I hadn't thought about curb feelers. Seems a good trade-off.
Btw, when are you headed this way? We are headed out of town for a while and didn't want to miss you. Send me a PM if it is near.
The other day while trolling the junkyards, I came across this no optioned 1980 F100 Custom that had this pretty awesome flash light mount bolted to the roof.
If you mill up a custom angled mount, you could attach the custom aluminum mount and the flash light mount to the roof, and then you could turn the flash light on and set it up in the flashlight mount. If you place everything just right, it will shine right on your gauge cluster, and you won't have to hold the flash light!
With your experience in 8-page Micro-Analysis, this shouldn't even take long at all!
Just let me know when you want me to send the flashlight mount!
I don't think you'll have any trouble with the coating coming off..
There is a lot less heat on the cluster bulbs than the amber turn signal bulbs....
I used some of the blue tinted bulbs(can't remember the #'s) in my cluster in another truck and they lasted several years...
Most of the time the bulbs just turn darker after SEVERAL years use...
Generally, just replacing the bulbs will literally make the difference between night and day.....Trav..
But, we already have the switch that puts the full "headlight switch voltage" to the instrument panel lights. It is just that the voltage at the headlight switch is down significantly from battery voltage. And, I forgot to say that the tests I ran which found the voltage down by 1.5 volts was with just the parking lights on, not the headlights. So, as I think about it, the voltage would probably be quite a bit lower with the headlights on, and don't we usually put them on to drive around at night? Duh! Why didn't I run the test that way?
Do you have the headlight relay kit installed that takes battery voltage from the battery to the headlights instead of running through the headlight switch? Would having that kit installed affect the dropped voltage to the bulbs in the cluster, especially when the headlights are on?
Besides new bulbs, which do dim over time (as you know), have you thought about using real aluminum plenum tape on the back of the bezel? It's easy to trim and wouldn't brown over time like paint. Also, it could be polished if need be.
Do you have the headlight relay kit installed that takes battery voltage from the battery to the headlights instead of running through the headlight switch? Would having that kit installed affect the dropped voltage to the bulbs in the cluster, especially when the headlights are on?
Besides new bulbs, which do dim over time (as you know), have you thought about using real aluminum plenum tape on the back of the bezel? It's easy to trim and wouldn't brown over time like paint. Also, it could be polished if need be.
If anything that would take some load off the headlight switch, therefore it would up the power available to the instrument lights.
Do you have the headlight relay kit installed that takes battery voltage from the battery to the headlights instead of running through the headlight switch? Would having that kit installed affect the dropped voltage to the bulbs in the cluster, especially when the headlights are on?
Besides new bulbs, which do dim over time (as you know), have you thought about using real aluminum plenum tape on the back of the bezel? It's easy to trim and wouldn't brown over time like paint. Also, it could be polished if need be.
No, I don't have that relay in, although I do need to do that. But, the aluminum tape idea is brilliant! (Pun intended. ) I love that stuff and have plenty of it. I think that's a winner, and will try it - maybe tomorrow even.
Originally Posted by White 97 xlt
If anything that would take some load off the headlight switch, therefore it would up the power available to the instrument lights.
Yes, that would take some load off the switch. But, before you go to the bank with those extra volts, remember I took the readings with the running/parking lights on but w/o the headlights. So, I inadvertently simulated the situation with the headlight relay in place, and that means I would still have had a 1.5 volt drop from the battery to the bulbs.
Yes, that would take some load off the switch. But, before you go to the bank with those extra volts, remember I took the readings with the running/parking lights on but w/o the headlights. So, I inadvertently simulated the situation with the headlight relay in place, and that means I would still have had a 1.5 volt drop from the battery to the bulbs.
I was replying to Yaga1973 about the use of relays NOT causing your issue, I realize you took the measurement with marker lights and instrument lights only... There almost has to be a weak/corroded connection or too small of a wire to cause that much voltage drop..
I drove my truck to work today and it was dark when I drove home. I looked at my cluster and it was pretty much the same brightness as the temperature control cluster is. So pretty much like 81-F150-Explorer said, that is the native brightness. I bet you can make yours brighter with aluminum tape covering the insides, as you seem to be planning to do. Let us know if it works!
I was replying to Yaga1973 about the use of relays NOT causing your issue, I realize you took the measurement with marker lights and instrument lights only... There almost has to be a weak/corroded connection or too small of a wire to cause that much voltage drop..
Sorry I butted in where I was not needed.....
You didn't butt in, and all input is needed. Not sure what I said, but I wasn't finding fault. But, I think you are right about there being an issue. I'm guessing that these trucks never had really bright gauges, and that over time they have gotten worse due to the bulbs getting old, the connections going bad, and the plastic turning brown. Couple that with our standards going higher and my eyes getting weaker and we have a situation where lack of satisfaction dwells.
Originally Posted by Galendor
I drove my truck to work today and it was dark when I drove home. I looked at my cluster and it was pretty much the same brightness as the temperature control cluster is. So pretty much like 81-F150-Explorer said, that is the native brightness. I bet you can make yours brighter with aluminum tape covering the insides, as you seem to be planning to do. Let us know if it works!
I wish I had temp control lights to compare to, but mine are out so there's another thing to fix.
I did drive the truck in the dark this evening and the gauges aren't awful, just dim. I'm hoping that the silver tape will help a lot, but if it isn't enough I think I'll try new, green bulbs.
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