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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Mercury engine differences?

Old Nov 2, 2012 | 07:41 AM
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Mercury engine differences?

I tore down my 8BA last night and found a nasty crack between a valve seat and a sleeve that's been put in that cylinder by someone in the past. So today I'm going to look at an Mercury engine. I know the crank is different but i was wondering what else was different too. Can i swap my truck water pumps, crank pulley, fan, exhaust manifolds and oil pan to this engine? Is the bell housing the same? Are the intakes the same?

Thanks, Bill
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 07:48 AM
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Mercurys have a four bolt carburetor mounting flange on the intake, so that will need swapping if you want to keep your current caburetor, assuming you have a 94 style now. You will need your truck bellhousing as well. Yes to the rest of your inquiry.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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How "nasty" is that crack? Does it go past the seat and into the port (bowl)? Since there's already a sleeve in the cylinder, that side is covered-OK. If the crack doesn't go beyond the seat, what about a new seat insert? The Merc engine should be an improvement unless it too has problems like what you already have. Don't be too quick to comdemn a Flathead block. The supply isn't growing and almost anything can be repaired.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:16 AM
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I tried to post a picture of the crack but i cnat figure out how to do it. I didnt look to see if the crack went down into the bowl beyond the valve seat. I'll look at that tonight when i get home. My real concern was that the crack has cause the block to distort so much that there's now a 2-3" long gap that you can almost get your fingernail in around the outside of the sleeve. There's other sins I've discovered in this engine. There's at least four different looking valves. There's two rods labled #7 and two labled #3.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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Regarding the four bolt mounting flange for the carb. Is there any benefit to using the Mercury carb? The one on my 8BA was just rebuilt and works great so i was wanting to stay with it unless somebody tells me the Mercury carb is a much better way to go.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by brkellogg
I tried to post a picture of the crack but i cnat figure out how to do it. I didnt look to see if the crack went down into the bowl beyond the valve seat. I'll look at that tonight when i get home. My real concern was that the crack has cause the block to distort so much that there's now a 2-3" long gap that you can almost get your fingernail in around the outside of the sleeve. There's other sins I've discovered in this engine. There's at least four different looking valves. There's two rods labled #7 and two labled #3.
Was the crack causing problems? Leaking? Coolant loss? Compression loss? Different numbered rods and different type valves, not really sins. Common to see this back when. Some sleeves may be installed with a lip cut into the block so what your finger nail goes into may not be an issue. Go slowly. Probably a good idea to have the block pressure tested unless you know there is a fatal problem.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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The engine was skipping and there was a lot of bubbles in the radiator. I chesked the copmpression and there were three cylinders that were low. This onewasnt the lowest but it was 63#. The lowest one was 50#. It looks like the intake valve wasnt fully closing on that one. So, i pulled the engine, tore it down and found the crack on the #6 cylinder.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by brkellogg
Regarding the four bolt mounting flange for the carb. Is there any benefit to using the Mercury carb? The one on my 8BA was just rebuilt and works great so i was wanting to stay with it unless somebody tells me the Mercury carb is a much better way to go.
I have fooled with exactly one Mercury carburetor, so I can't speak to the good or bad. I have gleaned the knowledge that the fuel inlet is easy to strip/cross thread, so many have developed leaks over the years in this area.

IF your 3 bolt Holley is rebuilt and you are happy with it, USE it! Since you will be swapping other parts, it's only a few more minutes/dollars to swap manifolds.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 09:35 AM
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Ray's right, when engines were rebuilt they wouldn't always re-stamp the rods. I have two #2's in mine, but I'd be the first to admit it concerns me. Did they just swap out of another engine, or were they balanced together? Honestly it sounds like your block is scrap, too many good ones out there to waste the time on one that's that far gone.

I just heard recently that many of the common parts for rebuilding Merc teapot carbs are not available any more. They have a reputation as leakers that catch fire.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Ray's right, when engines were rebuilt they wouldn't always re-stamp the rods. I have two #2's in mine, but I'd be the first to admit it concerns me. Did they just swap out of another engine, or were they balanced together? Honestly it sounds like your block is scrap, too many good ones out there to waste the time on one that's that far gone.

I just heard recently that many of the common parts for rebuilding Merc teapot carbs are not available any more. They have a reputation as leakers that catch fire.
Dang Ross, you and I must have been typing at the same time. I hadn't heard the parts problem with Merc carbs. Was asked to rebuild a couple a few years ago, kind of shined them off. I didn't like the leaking inlet problem. I've fixed some stripped 94 inlets, but never looked to closely at the Mercs. I try to stick to 94s, but lately have been allowing myself to stay from the comfort zone.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 03:45 PM
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I went out and took a look at the engine that i think is a Mercury. It does have the teapot carb and has EAC on the heads. Its got the water pumps, generator and fan with narrow belts. The starter and flywheel are gone. It has sat outdoors for more than 30 years covered by a piece of tin roofing. half of the oil pan has sunk into the ground but it still turns over. I offered the owner $200 for it. He says he need at least $500. Whats everybody's opinion. Is it worth risking $500?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by brkellogg
. Whats everybody's opinion. Is it worth risking $500?
Only if you can negotiate a deal with the seller that what you will pay is based on the engine being good. This deal would probably involve an immediate tear down and examination with the block tested. Just my humble opinion of course.
Years outside and sitting in the mud does not sound conducive to good engine maintenance.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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You can't polish a turd, pass on this one. I wouldn't even give him $200.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Too much to pay as is IMHO
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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Thanks guys. I think I'll pass on this one.
 
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