Overheating Problem (5.4L)
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Forked River NJ
Overheating Problem (5.4L)
Ill try to make this short...my temp gauge shoots to hot check gauge comes on and antifreeze shoots out of the reservoir cap and my reservoir is fill to the top. now ill let it sit for 10 mins then it will drive fine wont overheat. but it has done this 3 times this week(didnt do it at all 2 days)..
anybody no what could be wrong?
-2003 f250 5.4l
anybody no what could be wrong?
-2003 f250 5.4l
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,859
Likes: 55
From: Middleville, MI
yep, for what they cost and as easy of a swap as it is i'd just replace it. happened on my 5.4 too.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Forked River NJ
Well changed the thermostat on saturday..let it idle for about 20 mins while i cleaned up then took it for a 45 min ride.drove great didnt over heat or anything. took it out sunday got gas went to food store drove again fine.take it out today and 15 mins into the drive it overheats!!! I dont know iam assuming a headgasket at this point!
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Forked River NJ
idk how the water pump is to tell you the truth.i thought it ethier works or doesnt?idk y some days its ok and some days its not...weird...anyway i can check the water pump?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
water pump is simply, truck starts, belt spins water pump and thats it. BUT ive been at my buddies shop where he removed a water pump and the blades were GONE so i really dont know. i guess you could just buy a water pump gasket take yours off and look to check the blades and then just put it back on. How many miles do you have?
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 721
Likes: 4
From: Forked River NJ
water pump is simply, truck starts, belt spins water pump and thats it. BUT ive been at my buddies shop where he removed a water pump and the blades were GONE so i really dont know. i guess you could just buy a water pump gasket take yours off and look to check the blades and then just put it back on. How many miles do you have?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Not sure on the pump design but impellers have been known to slip on the shaft. So it looks like it’s moving but the impeller isn’t pushing coolant. This can happen intermittently. A cooling system pressure tester should be hooked up to this system (radiator not reservoir). When cold pump it up to the specified pressure and see if it holds (~10 minutes or so). If so then it’s not leaking. If it does drop and you don’t see coolant on the ground, pull the spark plugs and turn over the engine. You'll see the coolant spray out of the plug holes if it’s leaking into the combustion chambers, or you’ll see it in the oil. Pull the oil pan plug see if coolant comes out with the oil? If you still don’t find it run the engine to op temp with the tester attached and see if it builds too much pressure. Put the tester on the reservoir so the rad cap can do its thing. It should maintain ~15-16 psi hot or whatever the caps rated at.<O
</O
Intermittent cooling issues can be caused by a few things:<O</O
1. Clutch fan not engaging or intermittent. Grab the fan (engine off). It should have near zero up/down/side to side movement and should have good resistance to spin. If not replace with a high quality replacement. It shouldnt freewheel when you do this test.
2. Bad rad cap.<O</O
3. Partial blockage in the cooling system. Generally caused by a lower radiator hose collapsing thus causing a restriction. This usually shows up at higher road/engine speeds. Replace any soft hoses and make sure the inlet radiator hose (the one which feeds the engine) has the spring in it to prevent suction collapse.<O</O
4. The radiator and system may need a flush. The core could be restricted from sediment or corrosion build up.<O</O
5. Faulty new T-stat. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen faulty new out of the box stats. Stay away from the cheap Off Shore GARBAGE. Stant makes a HD and a Standard version of that stat. For less than 10 get the HD.<O</O
6. Obstructions in the exterior fins of the radiator. Are the fins free from debris & grease?<O</O
7. Lastly if the trans is slipping and on its way out that will throw extra heat at the radiator. Less likely if you have a trans cooler?<O</O
Do you notice the overheating at highway speeds or stop-n-go traffic?<O</O
</OIntermittent cooling issues can be caused by a few things:<O
</O1. Clutch fan not engaging or intermittent. Grab the fan (engine off). It should have near zero up/down/side to side movement and should have good resistance to spin. If not replace with a high quality replacement. It shouldnt freewheel when you do this test.
2. Bad rad cap.<O
</O3. Partial blockage in the cooling system. Generally caused by a lower radiator hose collapsing thus causing a restriction. This usually shows up at higher road/engine speeds. Replace any soft hoses and make sure the inlet radiator hose (the one which feeds the engine) has the spring in it to prevent suction collapse.<O
</O4. The radiator and system may need a flush. The core could be restricted from sediment or corrosion build up.<O
</O5. Faulty new T-stat. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen faulty new out of the box stats. Stay away from the cheap Off Shore GARBAGE. Stant makes a HD and a Standard version of that stat. For less than 10 get the HD.<O
</O6. Obstructions in the exterior fins of the radiator. Are the fins free from debris & grease?<O
</O7. Lastly if the trans is slipping and on its way out that will throw extra heat at the radiator. Less likely if you have a trans cooler?<O
</ODo you notice the overheating at highway speeds or stop-n-go traffic?<O
</O
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