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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:48 AM
  #16  
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There's no feasible way to attach a vacuum pump to a mold because the resin can be sucked into the pump when poured.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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The plastic pieces with the Blower - Air -Defrost - Temp are rare & hard to find & are yr. inclusive to '51 .The set atop a metal bracket with the grooves in it . The ***** on a '51 have a chrome bezel around them and are again yr. inclusive to a '51 .I have one with the back corner chipped off . Have had thoughts of milling one from a pc. of lucite but then again the problem of having the light shine thru the 4 words arises .I suppose one could use a decal for a '53 + and cut out the little letters on the pc. of lucite .You would have to rearrange the letters as I do for the all steel '52 heater control cable panel.Have a bunch of them restored as well some of the '51's. On the heater control bracket pictured for a '53+ the words are Blower - Temp - Air -Defrost .On a '52 control panel they are Blower - Air - Defrost - Temp .
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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I have a friend who's hobby is plastic casting. He uses a vacuum pump and a glass bell jar to pull any air out of the material before pouring it into the mold. Once the mold is poured he puts the mold into a pressure pot and applies 115 p.s.i. The air pressure squeezes any remaining air bubbles down so they are very small.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
If I can get a good 51 plastic piece, I can have a mold made and run off as many in clear resin as the mold will produce. I have a control panel in my 51, but never bothered to check if it was plastic or metal. If it is indeed plastic, I may pull it off to experiment with the mold and casting in resin.
You could also use a metal one to produce the mold, using clay to add the light socket or whatever is different.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Chuck, do you still have, or access to, the rubber mold? Could another batch be made, perhaps even better than the first run, knowing if you'd do something different to improve the product? Making the mold is usually the hard/expensive part.
It was too many years ago. I'm sure the mold has deteriorated. And, the guy is getting old and doesn't take on projects like this anymore.
Chuck
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #21  
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OK, is it just me or does Mike, Wayne, and Ilya's control ***** all pictured above have a bigger chromed bezels than these below??

I took a slight detour on my way home tonight to a special yard with a handfull of bonus builts and economy trucks to see what I could find!

here is a heater control I found.

plus a couple I had in the attic, (please excuse the crappy dark pictures)


So It appears the metal brackets with the backlights also have the vertical lines (impressions) as I think was stated above for a 1951? . the other brackets I have dont have the vertical lines and no light holes but I don't know what was there that has the "blower - air - defrost - temp" for the I assume a 52 heater bracket?? were they the same plastic part just didnt have the backlight?? need to dig deeper in the parts pile to see if there is more there...


Mike, Have you been to Wendell Idaho, Or Gooding ? there is a fairly large yard there< i bet they would have a few of these trucks that may have the part you need? I never had time to wander the yard but looked like fun. I forget the name? L&L classics or??
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
There's no feasible way to attach a vacuum pump to a mold because the resin can be sucked into the pump when poured.
Sure: Using a Bell jar, outgas the molding compound, pour, pull vacuum again, return to pressure and allow to cure. Complete the mold.
Mix resin and outgas it prior to pouring piece. Pour, evacuate and allow to cure.

The Bell jar is the key. Always outgas prior to pouring and at pouring time. Allow to return to atmosphere prior to end of "working time" of the compound that you're working with. I've done it successfully many, many times. I can also cast some metals. There, the "investment" (mold compound) is porous to allow vacuum to help gravity pull the metal into the mold.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:49 PM
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OK Josh, just so I'm understanding what I'm seeing, you have one each, a 51 and a 52, both have a plastic insert that attaches to the metal bracket, but the clear one is backlit for '51, and the 52 unit is painted black and has no light assemblies, but the bracket is the same for both?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:55 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by The Horvaths
Sure: Using a Bell jar, outgas the molding compound, pour, pull vacuum again, return to pressure and allow to cure. Complete the mold.
Mix resin and outgas it prior to pouring piece. Pour, evacuate and allow to cure.

The Bell jar is the key. Always outgas prior to pouring and at pouring time. Allow to return to atmosphere prior to end of "working time" of the compound that you're working with. I've done it successfully many, many times. I can also cast some metals. There, the "investment" (mold compound) is porous to allow vacuum to help gravity pull the metal into the mold.
You are correct in your explanation. I've never seen the bell jar during a resin casting process since I've only dealt with smaller parts for model cars. Wasn't familiar with it.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
OK Josh, just so I'm understanding what I'm seeing, you have one each, a 51 and a 52, both have a plastic insert that attaches to the metal bracket, but the clear one is backlit for '51, and the 52 unit is painted black and has no light assemblies, but the bracket is the same for both?
I think the clear one may have just been sanded lightly on the face?? ?
its same as the black one, it just looks like they painted the clear plastic less the letters so they would illuminate.
at least thats what i assume? thats why im wondering what the 52's look like. im going to have to dig.through my older pictures and see what i can find for a 52.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #26  
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As stated in post #17 . The clear plastic insert was used in only a '51 Magic Air heater system .A '52 only has a metal bracket with a decal the reads L-R . Blower -Air - Defrost -Temp .

Josh ,do any of your extra control panels w/ plastic inserts need a new home ?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #27  
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Josh,
I've been through Wendell and Gooding, but never to parts yards. Vintage Auto here in Mt.Home is where I got my truck from. Mine was the only complete bonus built he had. I got it minus the engine. He does have some cabs/frames/etc. Nice place just to walk around sometimes.
The bezels on my bracket do seem to be larger than the picture you posted. Can't explain that one. Right now the bed is kicking my backside, the heater will have to wait.
Mike
 
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