When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What PSI should the shop air be? How hard will it be to locate a leak if there is one?
So I haven't had much free time this week, and I messed around and didn't order the high pressure oil air fitting, so I decided to make my own this evening so I could try to test it this weekend. I thought I would share my Frankenfitting -
Here is what I started with. A 3 piece air fitting set, and a M12 x 1.5 bolt and nut:
I drilled a hole through the bolt and ground down the top and the air fitting end getting ready to weld:
I lined up the holes and clamped the top of the bold and the ground down tip of the air fitting together and welded it. Then I attached the two air fittings together so that it is ready for the quick connect fitting:
I notched out a groove to put an O-ring on the bolt:
Then I welded the nut in place:
I'm pretty sure I won't win any welding contests, but I needed an excuse to finally break out the welder. It's not pretty, but I'm fairly confident that it is air tight and will work for what I need it for. Plus, it cost under 10 bucks.
Thanks a lot for those videos BLADE. I set mine up just like that and used a little over a 100 PSI. I could not hear any air at all out of either valve cover, so I don't think it would be an injector O-ring. I couldn't hear any air from the oil supply line to the turbo. I could hear what sounded like a very small amount of air coming from the oil return of the turbo. Is that normal? And is it normal for that tube to be loose? The IPR valve seemed to work when voltage was applied. I applied air pressure first and I could hear lots of air from the turbo oil return line. I think that is normal according to the video. Then when voltage is applied to the IPR, most of the air leaking sound stops, but just that little sound from the turbo oil return line. So what does it all mean? Is the IPR valve good at least?
I've been testing it now for over 30 minutes, applying voltage to the IPR valve for 1-2 minutes then disconnecting and waiting a minute or so and reconnecting. Still, no air leak can be hear in either of the valve covers, the oil supply line to the turbo, or the oil filter housing (no bubbles either). The only air that can be heard it a very small amount from the oil return line of the turbo. It sounds like it is a lot less that the one in the video. Mine seems to be the opposite, when the IPR valve is not connected to 12V, there is a lot more air, and when it is connected, there is considerably less, almost none. I am using over 100 PSI and my air pressure regulator is maxed out. During the time the IPR valve is connected, the is almost no pressure loss. It seems to me that there should be some pressure on the scangauge while cranking if it is just a very small leak at the HPOP.
Have you checked for lpo at the filter housing? remove the filter and press the little button in the bottom of the housing and crank the motor, it should rapidly fill the housing with oil when cranked. Your HPO system sounds fine to me.
The code for ICP appeared to be right in the SGII. I went ahead and entered it again into another slot just to make sure I had it right. The next time I crank it, I will display both and see if the first one is wrong.
I did get my wife to crank it while I watched the oil filter housing. It did fill, but not very, very rapidly. It took about 5-10 seconds, but that was without pressing down the button. I tried to do it again pressing down the button, but by then the batteries were out of juice. I will try it next time I crank it to see if it still fills or fills faster with the button pressed.
I'm wondering if it is safe to try cranking it with the turbo off. I really don't want to install it and then have to take it out again.
I just tried cranking it again with the turbo off. First I pressed the button in the oil filter housing and my wife cranked it. It did seem to fill up much faster pressing the button. In less than 5 seconds it was full. I'm not sure if its the button that made the difference or the batteries - I swapped out the Interstate batteris that were in it with a couple Optima Blue Tops. Then I replaced the oil filter and cap and cranked it again watching the ICP on the scangauge. I decided to crank it longer to see if I could get some pressure. After around a minute of continuous cranking, my wife stopped me. Oil started gushing out of the supply line to the turbo. It was still 0 for ICP on the SGII. Now I guess its time to reinstall the turbo and try again. I'm really going to be unhappy if it turns out to be the oil cooler or HPOP and I have to tear it down again.
I got the turbo back in, which was a PITA. Then I cranked it continously forever, it had to be over 2 minutes, then I finally saw some numbers on the SCII for the ICP.
I get the impression you didn't crank the engine over long enough and ran out of battery juice to continue cranking long enough to build up enough pressure for the engine to fire up. That's my two cents.
I am not the least bit surprised at the outcome of this. All too often when working on these engines, if any part of the high pressure oil system gets "opened up", a lot of extended engine cranking is to be expected before initial engine start up can be achieved. That said, if the batteries are weak, you will most definitely have two chargers connected, or both batteries replaced outright in situations like this.