The only way my truck is going a 1/4 mile in under 12 seconds is if you can find me a cliff higher than 1/4 mile

I'd love to have my truck engine in a Volvo 240 station wagon.

(hmm.. future project idea)

 

If the cliff was exactly 1/4 mile, the truck would take just a hair over 9 seconds to hit the ground .... I got bored not being in school . I think 11's could be done though, but it would be expensive.

 

ya, i dont plan on doing this over night, i will be taking my time (mostly pay check to paycheck) and starting with the drivetrain and suspension, and running the stock engine, while i am building up the extra tranny and extra engine.

 

5.8, okay I am glad you will see this is no mild undertaking.

You can't do a rear gear swap without doing the front too. Your ratios will be off and stuff will explode.

I would try and find a 84+ block for the one piece rear main. Sure the older early 70's blocks are stronger (just barely) but that two piece rear main is bad news.

You don't need a 460 to hit 11's by any means. I'd say away from 11:1 compression for durability reasons. 10:1 is far better and you can still run 93 pump.

If you don't have a sniffer that is a BIG plus for you. Here in Texas we are about two sets behind California in this emissions thing.

I'd stick with an AOD too. You will have an overdrive. I have build a few AOD's that will take easily 650-800HP, that all depends on how indepth you want to go with it. Ask me and I'll tell you the main weak points and how to alleviate them.

A 3.5" crank and the 400M rods, you will need a special set of pistons. I am gonna say this: a 392 is the cheapest way to make tons of power. A $300 nodular iron crank @ 3.85" stroke, 351W rods 5.955", and 302 pistons 1.61 comp height. THAT is the cheapest displacment to make.

I do not like carbs. Why go backwards in time? I can easily make a good EFI system make as much power but be durable. Start, drive, and get half decent gas milage too. That is just my opinion...

 

THe gear swaps, i understand, i was just stating i wouldnt have to pay 150 for the rear, just have to buy the fronts.

Ya, the 70 have there pros and cons, as well as the newer blocks. Its give and take both ways.

THe reason i will be running 10.8:1 is because the pistons and rods (400 rods with the special KB pistons) i already have.

Ya, no smog checks is really nice good thing about living in BFE.

and carbs are much easier to tune, cheaper than a set of injectors, and i already have the 750dp sitting in the garage.

thanks for the suggestions, i will probably e-mail you on the tranny's, as i have only delt with t-5's

 

i no its a lil bit late in the convo but whoever said that a shortbed shortcab weighs ~4000 is looking at a midsize truck...i have a '77 k10 and it weighs around 6500 pounds...even though its all steel theres no way that body panals and the absence of the front axle takes off 2000 pounds

 

you could get a big headv start by buying a f250 or 350 shortbeb excab 4x4. then get the best of both worlds by going with a truck with a powerstroke deisel. granted there heavy but in stock form they out preform the gas rigs. You'll already have enough TQ to pull your stang with ease and great fuel mileage. then with all the easy bolt on aftermarket for power now you should be able to get it to runs good times with ease. i'll bet if you add up the cost of buying the f150 building the 351w to spec's to suit you. then add up the cost of doing a powerstroke rig you'll come out cheaper. then still be able to tow anything with ease with good fuel mileage to boot. I see quite a few deisel rigs at the track that'll scream. thats just with bolt on mods without having a long down time.

 

DAG GUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Y DONT U JUST GO OUT N GET U THAT DANG BULLY DOG DEISEL KIT AND PROPANE INJECTION OR UR P/S FORD! THEN ADD ELEVENTY MILLION HORSEPOWER SHOT OF NITROUS!...actually i have seen a deisel with the bully dog chip, nitrous and propane injection on it. If you ever saw TRUCKS the show it was on that...i was up in nashville and saw that stacy guy driven it around...one werd....BADA$$

 

My 96 short cab/short bed F150 w/ 300/E4OD weighs right at 4100# empty.

 

S/R...ur rite, buddy of mine has 95 shortcab weighin in the same...im a *******

 

i would look at a lightning engine for sure...i owned a 94 lightning and it has a 8.8 in it. There are guys out there running 10's and lower on the 8.8 in these trucks. It can be done...also the stock 5.8 crank and rods are stronger than most think. Most lightning guys run either turbo's or superchargers on stock bottom end and are putting out over 500 hp at the wheels. Use the lightning intake system which is identical to the mustang. Screw that twin throttle body ****. I would run the AFR's for sure...if you want top end go with a turbo setup. If you want lots of lowend to get you off the line then i would go with a twin screw compressor followed by a 100 shot at the end. This is what i had on my lightning and it was good for a 10.4@128mph with stock heads and stock intake and 12 #'s of boost. Not to mention stock cam...the E4OD can be made to handle anything you can throw at it. Get ahold of Gregg Evans. He builds a monster box that can take anything you can put at it. I was running his valve body upgrade and a navigator torque converter. I would also recommend the rancho traction bars. You will need them! Since your truck will weigh more than mine did...I would say with a cam and head package and the intake ported it is very possible. Goodluck!

 

btw if you want some more info on the lightning's go to www.nloc.net the best site around for lightnings!