No Spark
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No Spark
Hey guys I just recently put the motor back in my 1979 F250. It is the 6.6l 400m motor. I can't get any spark. I'm not sure but I'm pretty sure the ignition control module is hard wired. Please lend me a hand
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
Welcome to FTE. First step: connect a test light from the TACH TEST (negative) terminal of the coil to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Crank the engine over from the key, and the light should BLINK. Post your results.
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Thank you for the warm welcome. Se the thing is... I have no idea if I have it wired up right or not. I didn't remove the motor from the truck I just got the job of putting back in. I need like I wiring diagram for an ignition module that's hard wired
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I guess I'm not quite following. The ignition module is essentially a box with wires coming out. There is no relay in the original ignition system. Instead of trying to understand what's there, focus on how it should be, and what you must do to make what's there match what should be there.
Here is a diagram of the original Duraspark system:
Here is a diagram of the original Duraspark system:
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Ok so I had to get a new coil. Now I have 3 wires that come from the distributor purple orange and black. The have no where to go...? I know they should plug into the ignition control module but it's not there. It never was. So now I'm really lost
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
All three of those wires go straight to the ignition module. It mounts to the driver side inner fenderwell toward the firewall. If your '79 is missing it, you'll need to get a new one.
The factory electronic ignition cannot operate without the ignition module (there is nothing to switch the coil if it's gone).
The factory electronic ignition cannot operate without the ignition module (there is nothing to switch the coil if it's gone).
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
It is physically impossible for an electronic ignition system that uses the distributor you've mentioned to run without the ignition module. Without the module, there physically is no method to switch the coil primary winding and fire the spark plugs. It's like saying points ignition can run without the points.
If you're saying the engine ran when it was in the old truck, then obviously that truck's ignition module was still bolted to the fender. When the engine was pulled, the engine came out but the module stayed in the truck. It does not typically travel with the engine.
If you're saying that truck didn't have an ignition module either, then something else was different; either the engine was using points, or a Pertronix conversion (which is an ignition module). But in those two cases, you wouldn't have those three wires coming from the distributor.
Or, that truck really did have an ignition module and you just didn't see it.
If you're saying the engine ran when it was in the old truck, then obviously that truck's ignition module was still bolted to the fender. When the engine was pulled, the engine came out but the module stayed in the truck. It does not typically travel with the engine.
If you're saying that truck didn't have an ignition module either, then something else was different; either the engine was using points, or a Pertronix conversion (which is an ignition module). But in those two cases, you wouldn't have those three wires coming from the distributor.
Or, that truck really did have an ignition module and you just didn't see it.
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ok i figured it out i went threw some picks. The motor that was in the truck i have before whick ran had a 2 wire msd distributor not an OEM 3 wire. now what do i do? run a 2 wire msd typ distributor?
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: San Angelo
Or you could get the original style ignition module Standard Motor Products LX203 - Standard Motor Ignition Modules - Application - SummitRacing.com
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From: San Angelo
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Either way you will not get around the fact that you will have to add the wiring in between whatever you end up using yourself. If it's missing, you must replace it. There is no 5-minute solution for an engine swap with cut up wiring and missing pieces.