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Hey guys, just joined today because I wasn't able to solve the issue through reading only. This Bronco is my dad's and it's gonna be the death of my brother and I if we can't figure it out. I've reading many threads about other trucks having a shudder when it shifts into 3rd and OD, but I can't seen to put my fingure on the issue why it's doing it. We replaced the entire trans a little bit ago thinking it was that and then a month or so later it came back. Listening the the motor when it shudders it sounds like its missing, as if the timing isn't advancing when we get on the throttle. We test the coil, TFI modual, replaced the PIP sensor (just threw a reman distributor in), new plugs, new wires, and still ain't clearing up. We were gonna look into the vacuum system for a leak or look into checking out emissions components. Any ideas? Thanks ahead of time.
1990 Bronco Eddie Bauer 351W E4OD 171K miles, and thats the thing I have no CEL light, I have a scanner, but for OBD2 only. My 1993 W350 Cummins is OBD1 but I can get codes from the the CEL flashing when I go through a key on, key off sequence. Does it work as well in these older Fords?
did you install a rebuilt tranny or a wrecking yard model? when you check the timing what is it set at with the spout connector removed?
have you checked your rear drive shaft? perhaps its bent or just needs serviced.
I would also suspect your CEL is burn out so try installing a new bulb in there and see what happens. IS the OD light flashing by chance? you can pull codes by watching the flashes just like your Dodge. or pick up a obd1 scanner they are maybe $30. i just cant recall the brand off hand.
have you guys messed with the idle screw on the throttlebody at all by chance?
the TPS
MLPS
ECU
solenoid pack
all these play a roll in how the tranny works
The tranny is from the boneyard with fresh fluid and we checked everthing out before install, the fluid that was in the trans we pulled was a little darker than the fresh stuff we put in. We did check and adjust the timing accordingly with the SPOUT removed. The light isn't blown because on initial startup of the truck the CEL light is on, but when the truck is driven around it's never on. The TPS or anyhthing such as a sensor or solnoid was tested, but not adjusted, all checked out okay. I can can drop the rear drive shaft and look into the U-joints, shoot some grease into them if needed, but I definitly sounds as if the motors missing and falling flat on it's face. Thanks for the help so far, I'll see what I can come up with.
what kinda of spark plugs are you using? make sure that # 7 & 8 pluge wires are not touching each other, these pair are known to crossfire and cause issues.
the timing was at 10*btdc correct?
what size tires are on the bronco? i cant recall if that year bronco has an electronic odometer or not, can you confirm?
You might want to check the firing order to separate the wires that fire right after another. On my 94 5.8 they are #6,#5....not #7, #8 You want them to be the outside wires in the loom and not cross each other, look at your firing order.
what kinda of spark plugs are you using? make sure that # 7 & 8 pluge wires are not touching each other, these pair are known to crossfire and cause issues.
the timing was at 10*btdc correct?
what size tires are on the bronco? i cant recall if that year bronco has an electronic odometer or not, can you confirm?
The plugs are Autolights, The timing is correct, we had made sure timimg was done at 10* BTDC with the SPOUT removed and my Dad has the factpry tire size of 31x10.5x15 on there.
You might want to check the firing order to separate the wires that fire right after another. On my 94 5.8 they are #6,#5....not #7, #8 You want them to be the outside wires in the loom and not cross each other, look at your firing order.
I like them, maybe I did not crack them when installing.
Since the two of you brought up plug wires as something to check I'm going to check them right now. Make sure the're routed where they belong and make sure they aren't touching out wires, thanks guys!
The E4OD is completely electronic and therefore REQUIRES computer control. Between the MLPS, TOT sensor and several shift solenoids, something amiss can be more readily determined by pulling Codes. There is no calibration since the EEC-IV computer (PCM) performs all shift calculations in real-time based on VSS, tachometer, and a host of other inputs. I will reiterate that we are merely speculating here on a topic that could have far more pinpointed data with the results of a KOEO and KOER test.
I manually pulled codes today and got code 11- system pass and code 33- EGR valve opening not detected. I looked into the EGR valve and watched for the diafram to move as I gave it throttle and it didn't. So I bypassed the carbon canister and then I would open, but I think it may still have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any thpughts on wheather we're on the right track?
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