KOEO:
23-TPS voltage higher or lower than expected
24-ACT sensor out of self test range
67-AC circuit on during test or neutral safety circuit failure

CM:
14-2 or more successive erratic PIP pulses
32-EVP circuit intermittently failed below min voltage
96-Fuel pump secondary circuit failure

I guess 23 is probably why my idle is a little high. How much are the TPS? I may just live with it idling at about 850-900 if they are a lot.

Not sure even where the ACT sensor is or what adverse affects code 24 would have on anything.

Not sure what code 67 is all about. I don't have AC and I have a manual, so I don't know why this code is showing up. Watched the blinking lights three times to verify.

Code 14 I think was probably stored before I gave it a good tune up, plugs and all were in horrid condition.

Not sure about code 32 if anyone can help me with that one I'd appreciate it.

96 I'm pretty sure was stored when the wire to my fuel pump relay corroded through and wasn't making connection.

Thanks in advance!

 

In light of the high idle/IAC problem you have another thread on, I suspect a previous owner has jacked with the throttle stop screw. I would suggest checking what the closed throttle TPS voltage is before tossing on parts. If it is high then you will most likely need to crank it back. There used to be a procedure online, I'll see if I can find how to reset the base idle speed. Basically the stop screw is there to prevent the throttle from closing completely which could cause it to stick.

Code 24 is typically triggered if you did not warm up the engine before running the KOEO/KOER tests.

Code 67 is a common one when running the KOEO test. For some reason Ford designed the test to be run with the operator pushing down on the clutch the whole time on the 4.9L equipped trucks.

Code 14 is a sign your PIP sensor may be going out or the output is low. Does the truck frequently stall, hard to start when warm, etc.?

Code 32 from CM indicates the EVP signal, sits on top of the EGR valve, is intermittently dropping below 0.32 VDC when it is supposed to be closed. Could be a weak spring in the EGR valve or the EVP itself is marginal. Verify the output signal with a meter, key on/engine off or on. Should be very close to the same value.

Code 96 can be triggered by switching between tanks with the engine running. Or the relay issue as you noted previously.

 

I was going to post here that I had posted my TPS voltages on that other thread but it looks like you found it already.


Nope doesn't stall at all or hard to start; starts right up every time. The one thing that was weird though is I just put a new exhaust on this past weekend and it started right away but kinda acted weird at first.
I would give it some gas and it sounded like it was hesitating. It stopped after a little while. I started again and it was fine so I don't know what that was all about.

I'll have to check this out.

Thanks for the insight.

 

EVP info: Fuel Injection Technical Library » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)


Code 32 is tough to break apart to find the root cause. The EGR valve preloads the EVP sensor. A weak EGR spring/diaphragm can cause that code as well as a faulty EVP sensor. It will probably take some detective work.

 

Any luck on finding that idle adjust procedure? I tried looking some myself but no dice.

 

Our good buddy Steve83 has the procedure as outlined by Ford, but it is based on using a Data logger. It's is more involved that what it needs to be.

I found this from my buddy Gack on another forum:

1. Start engine

2. Warm engine to operating temp.

3. Remove the plug on the IAC.

4. Turn the throttle stop screw until you reach ~550-600rpm.

5. Turn off engine but place key back in on position.

6. Test the TPS. It should read between 0.6 - 1.0 VDC, if not replace the TPS.

7. Restart engine, is idle still at 600? If yes then continue to step 8. If not repeat 1-7 until you have ~550-600rpm idle.

8. Reconnect IAC.

9. Idle should rise to the manufacturer's recommendation.

10. Have a beer because your idle is now set.

Edited slightly to remove any references to adjusting the TPS. It's not necessary. If the TPS is outside the listed range, replace it.



One other methodology I have found is to remove the throttle body, hold it up to the light, adjust the throttle stop screw until you just start to see light between the metal casting and the butterflies. Re-install the throttle body, check the TPS output voltage, if it is between the values listed then start the engine to verify where the idle RPM settles out at when warm.

If the idle continues to be high then you definitely have unmetered air (vacuum leak) somewhere in the intake tract. This applies to both methodologies.

 

Didn't work :-(. I started backing out the screw and things looked good at first, TPS voltage started to drop (.01), rpms sounded like they dropped slightly. However, as I continued nothing was happening. When I looked the screw was no longer even making contact with the stop plate. I guess the screw was where it should have been, so I reset it to where it was based on the TPS voltage I took before I started. I then artificially set the TPS voltage to about .80V by taping it place and restarted it. This didn't seem to make a difference either, idle still at about 1K. So it seems I have a vacuum leak somewhere I guess. I don't have any idea how to pin point it though. I tried using ether where ever I could think to spray it to find a leak but nothing. I guess it can't be that bad a of a leak though because the idle isn't crazy high, I guess maybe that's why it's hard to find. Any suggestions?

 

You could start unplugging the vacuum lines from the intake one at a time, capping the open port on the intake to see if the idle drops back to normal. I have never used this method, but I would keep the vacuum line to the MAP sensor connected during this type of testing. I would suggest to temporarily run a test line directly to the MAP sensor. Second method is to use a hand held vacuum pump/gauge to test each vacuum circuit to see which one(s) are leaking. Either method will isolate each circuit to determine which one may be causing your high idle.

If that checks out then you have a leak in the intake system itself. This would mean disassembling the intake to check/replace gaskets. This is another classic example why I do not put a lot of faith in the spray ether/carb cleaner/propane method to look for vacuum leaks.

Now that you found out with the throttle completely closed the TPS voltage is too high you also need to replace it.

 

Anyone have experience with and aftermarket TPS? Any point in pulling one at a yard?

 

If you are getting 0.8 VDC out of the TPS with the throttle closed and the idle is too high it is not the TPS causing it.
Either your IAC valve is sticking open or you have a vacuum leak as stated above or you have a bad computer or wiring to the IAC valve.

 

Many of the aftermarket TPS sensors are bad right out of the box. Quality control does not appear to be high on the criteria list for many of them. You may get lucky, you may not. Trying to install a used on from the JY would not be my first choice, but sometimes we have to make decision based on money in our wallets.

 

I bought a new TPS (motorcraft) and the voltage although lower at idle is 1.19v is still out of spec. What is going on? There is only one way to install this thing really so I don't know what the deal is. Maybe I got a bad one? I bought is on eBay and I asked before I bought it and it is brand new. It looks brand new and came in the box and everything. Any ideas?

 

Go back to the procedures I listed before for how to set the idle stop screw. The last one has you set the screw where the throttle butterflies are open just enough to show some light.

The other thought is how you are mounting the TPS. There is some preload built in. You need to place the TPS on the throttle blade shaft at a slight angle in order for it to properly engage the slot. The you twist it slightly to align to the screw holes. Perhaps this is where something has gone awry?

 

Yeah that's how in putting it on. Slightly angled forward the rotate back slightly into position to align the holes. I guess I can try adjusting it again but when I did it before it was right at where I could feel the plates sticking and the stop just making contact with the screw; when I backed it off anymore it didn't make contact. Thanks.

 

Double checked the idle screw, it's as low as it can be. Also got another TPS, same voltage. I'm stumped. Maybe I installed the plates wrong somehow when I reinstalled them in the throttle body. I really can't think of what the heck is going on.