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foreign junk brake question.

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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 12:57 PM
  #1  
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tjc transport
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foreign junk brake question.

the girl across the street has a 02 altima. the thing had almost no brakes.
new pads and rotors on front, and new everything on the back.
i managed to get the passenger side done without any major difficulty. the driver side rear is fighting me all the way.
caliper seized, caliper sliders seized, and caliper mounting bracket bolts oxidized into the aluminum axle assemblies.

anyone have any ideas on how to get the bracket bolts loose without removing the rear suspension??
i don't have enough room in there it get the impact gun on the bolt heads to break them loose.
i also can't get a good grip on the bolt heads with a breaker bar.

.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #2  
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Rusty_Old_F250
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Is there any way you can punch out the pins and just pull the calipers and leave the brackets where they are?

Sam
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #3  
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tjc transport
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nope. you need to remove the brackets to replace the rotors.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Rusty_Old_F250
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Ouch, that's a problem. Is there any way you could clean up the head of the bolt and get a better grip on it? Does the bolt stick out the other side? Can you get at it from behind and spray some oil on it? EDIT: is the enough swing room to put a box end wrench on it and hit that with a hammer? That trick has saved me a couple times.

I suppose you could use a torch and heat up the bolt and try to get it out that way. Or if nothing will fit on it at all maybe weld a piece of flat stock to the head of that bolt and beat on that with a hammer, it might come loose that way.

Good luck man!

Sam
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #5  
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this is the major dilemma.
the rear suspension piece it mounts to is cast aluminum.
the bolts are blind holes, so no way to get oil in there.
heat is a no go because the bolts are rite next to the bearings.
breaker bar is no good because there is no room to get in there, same as going at it with a hammer. no room to swing.

i picked up some CRC freeze off and am going to try that. supposedly it will freeze and shrink the bolt allowing it to be removed.
i just don't know if it will work with the oxidization between the aluminum casting and the steel bolt.

if worst comes into the picture i will have to unbolt the rear suspension to get enough room to get the impact gun in there on the bolts
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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Sounds like your easiest option at this point is unbolting those control arms. That might actually be easier than struggling with it the way it is.

Good luck!

Sam
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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I know GM used lock tite on their caliper mount bolts, so the first time they get removed, heat is required. May be your case here.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #8  
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no locktite, the passenger side came rite off.
this makes the 4th nissan under 10 years old i have done brakes on in the past year, and every one of them has had seized rear calipers.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #9  
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It seems to be a problem with Mazda too, I had to beat on the calipers with a hammer to get them to move at all. The whole back brakes were rusted up, don't usually see that around here. I twisted off a couple big bolts, fortunately (for me at least!), they threaded into the calipers, so the guys who got those cores had fun I'm sure!

As much as I hate drums, I will admit they stand up to the weather a lot better.

Did you get that bracket off?

Sam
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #10  
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no, went in at 3am and did not get home till 6:45 pm. i put it off till saturday morning.
she needs the car for school and does not want to drive my crown vic. she claims it is too big, but i think she is just afraid of getting in an accident with it.

she took it to get parts saturday morning, so i know she can handle it.

now the truck on the other hand, she has no problem with driving. but that is my baby.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #11  
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I'm looking at a diagram of the brakes and don't see a reason you can't use a torch, doesn't require a big azz rosebud a small propane or mapp gas will do the trick, the bearing will be fine
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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push it into the nearest sink hole , pothole , river what have you , tell her it got stolen and call her insurance company ...... and give her some guidance on what real cars are , not furrin' owned co. junk ............. and yes i know thats gonna include a lot of so called domestic junk too .........
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #13  
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well, it took me all of 15 minutes to take it apart this morning and just about 1/2 hour for total job, including replacing 3 studs.. i have no idea what went wrong last week, except it did not want to come apart.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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Blame it on the weather, thermal expansion, blah blah blah...

Glad to hear it worked!

Sam
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty_Old_F250

As much as I hate drums, I will admit they stand up to the weather a lot better.
I dont get the hate for drums. A FWD family/economy car does not need rear disks. 80% of the braking is done by the fronts. Rear drums make the parking brake so much simpler, too. I blame the cheap alloy wheels that are standard on almost everything today. People dont want to see drums behind them.
 
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