Latest version of cpd? The oldest, original is the best.

 

The "A" revision? That's the one that died on me. If it's the best, why would Ford have a recall on it? What am I missing?

Mine has a "B" in it. I read just the other day that a "C" revision is available. If I am providing erroneous information, please correct me.

Looks like Clay is selling the "C" revision:

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me...Category_Code=

.

 

The only thing I know is the black one is the best.

 

My original A revision was black, and it looks like the C revision is also black.

 

Is the 6.0 tranny cooler better than the B&M i already installed? Should I add the 6.0 and change the B&M to an oil cooler?

Will the John Wood valve body prolong the life of the rest of the transmission? or just make it shift better? I am content with how it shifts now with the Banks transmission controller, but I dont tow much more than 3-4 4wheelers now. I plan to get a camper one day.

Ryan

 

The 6.0 cooler is really nice and big, and drops right in, but I can't speak specifically as to how it compares in cooling ability to what you have now. I know there are threads out there about that.

In my opinion, and in my particular case, I have a very strong feeling that the VB will prolong the life of my transmission; but then again when I bought the truck with 90K miles on it, it was shifting quite poorly. I had never owned a Super Duty before, and didn't really know what "normal" was for it. With the VB in there though, the shifts are super firm, but not harsh. Could have been that there was something wrong with the original VB.

It was just over $200, and an easy (but messy) install.

 

I'll weigh in by seconding Greg's suggested link in post 13, the failure prevention thread. That's gold right there. The 6.0 trans cooler is arguably the best IMO, but you will get arguments. You do not need an engine oil cooler in addition to the oil-to-water one on the driver side of the engine. Another item to bullet-proof your truck is bellowed up-pipes. The stock donut gaskets always leak over time. Great air filter setup is the Ford AIS. Stick a Fumoto oil drain valve on there; if the oil pan strips out the engine must be pulled to replace it.

We're always available to help you spend your money on your truck. But a lot of the things in the failure prevention thread cost next to nothing.

 

50 cent mod here.
You know I have to pop in here and ask if the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) connector has been looked at and the 50 cent mod done? 50 cent mod video here
2001 F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel, UVCH - YouTube

How to do it written down from my post in another thread. The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne

 

Yup, I went at my 7.3 top end before having any problems. New o-rings threwout the top and injectors. Checked UVCH and did the 50 cent mod while injectors were out. Some say you should replace the high pressure oil hoses before they blow as well. I haven't yet. While the top end is apart you can check over intercooler pipe boots, spider boots, and the like.

Flush/change power steering/brake booster fluid.

Change trans fluid per Mark's write up.

Change coolant if it is green. Possibly flush it if you are unsure how old it is or what it is.

 

I was looking at the bellowed up kit at RiffRaff. Thanks. As far as that drain plug goes, It kind of scares me. I do alot of off road riding and would be very scared a stick or stump would catch that thing. I like the concept. How low does it hang under the pan?

I'm a believer in an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of replacement.

Ryan

 

Thanks. I hadnt thought about flushing the P/S fluid. Its on my list now. Along with brake fluid, Tranny fluid, and Anti freeze.(16 gallons of antifreeze?!?!? Really?? I think these engines are so heavy because the 100 gallons of various fluids in them)

Ryan

 

Awesome write up fixitman!! I will be following your directions. Thank you so much for the input.

Ryan

 

I bought a 2000 7.3 powerstroke a little over a year ago. it seems like its got a miss and real hesitant on take off what could it be? I just recently replaced my hpop lines and fixin to do uppipes but wondering if its maybe something more major that needs attention or if I just need to do an injector rebuild kit?

 

It's most likely an electrical issue. Have you scanned it for codes? Do you have the ability to do a buzz test? You'll have better luck if you start your own thread.

 

Ive seen 4 times in this thread mention of changing HPOP lines. I hope yall are talking about the 4 fittings on the end of these lines cause that's what blows out. OP, there is not 16 gal of coolant in the truck.
Enjoy your new truck