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Went to DMV this morning to get my tags. On the way home the truck just died. I did somepoking around and saw when I turned the engine over the dist did not turn. The little dowel that hold the gear on the shaft broke. Got another dowel but the hole on the shaft was so elongated it broke again. The id tag on the engine says its a 1968 390, I know that someone could have put that tag there, but thats all I have to go on. Trying to find a replacement, Its a single vac with points but some say 1/4 in diameter oil pump shaft hole. Stupid question but how do I know if thatrs what I have? Here are a couple of pics with the part number...I'll be damned if I can read them. Maybe someone with better eyes can see.....
I know its tough to see. I'm reading C8TF -12127-3 with a L underneath. Does that make sense? Anybody know of a good replacement?? Thanks for helping out a
C8TE-12127 is correct, but suffix is a letter, not a number (3). Doesn't really matter, any 1965/73, 1974/75 without electronic ignition FE single point/dual point dizzy can be used.
Here's the dowel pin info. Since it's the problemo, why replace the dizzy?
61489-S .. Dizzy Dowel Pin-Retains gear to shaft / 1/8" x 1/4"
Man your off to a great start. I guess it only goes down hill from here. Ha Ha just kidding. Hope things smooth out with the new 4x4.
Hey I meant to ask you what did those blocks that were under the springs on the front measure. Garbz2 on here says you can rearch your springs and add 2 inches without changing the angle on your drive line. After that you start to enounter problems.
That 3 could be a G? Damn these eyes!! Even with my dollar store glasses, I can't see a thing.
If you think your eyes are bad now, just wait'll you're 68 years old. Even with implants, prescription reading glasses, magnifying glass, I could not make out that fracatta suffix.
Clean it up w/a pencil eraser, smear some damp tube toothpaste on it, when it dries, number will be easier to read. Works on firearm serial numbers, will work on dizzy ID numbers.
Marked: C8TF-12127-G = Ford part number: C8TZ-12127-G (Auto-Lite/Motorcraft DA-896).
Original applications: 1968 F100/350 360/390 C6 or M/T.
FAB-12390-C .. 15 Tooth Dizzy Driven Gear (Auto-Lite/Motorcraft DZ-367) / Use with 61489-S .. Dowel Pin.
Hey Vic, it did only go down hill...backwards. lol I just measured the blocks and they are 3 inches tall!! I ordered up an add a leaf from http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/ford-f2...72-p21659.aspx I might do the rear as well. I want to see how it looks. BTW, if you want, I will sell those lift blocks to you real cheap! I even have a matching set for the rear...
Bill, ordered up the distributor from green sales co. Should be here next tuesday. Thanks again!
Bill, ordered up the distributor from green sales co. Should be here next tuesday.
Green had it, but so did JST Automotive. Before you buy something, let me know beforehand.
Obsolete parts prices vary wildly from one source to the other. I usually list all the sources that have a particular part, so you can call around for the best price.
Ha Ha Chris Ill pass on the blocks. I will howerver say thanks for that link to FB. When I get to my spring packs on my 63 I will have them rearched and add 2" if they can. Tie them together and use as boat anchor or use as door stops. Only things I can think to do with them.
I got the new distributor today, but it doesn't exactly match up to what I have. Number on the box matches what I ordered, but the number on the distributor reads 12127-D when I ordered a 12127-G. They sent a dual vac when I have a single. Is that a big deal? Can I either swap cans or just plug one?
I highly doubt a dual vacuum distributor was used on a truck in CT. Number Dummy will know more but I believe the dual vacuum would have been seen in California due to smog regulations. I know 68 CA cars could come both ways depending on the engine but not in 1966. I would get another and say for a 1967 390 as I have never seen a 1967 390 or 410, in CA, with a dual. The port closest to the distributor body is used to retard timing during low throttle and you really don't need that. The engine runs much better without it and less complications if there is a vacuum advance problem. Besides it hooks up to a 3 port vacuum which I am sure you don't have currently, do you? Also, single is cheaper.
Swap? If your vacuum diaphragm is in good shape then I assume it could unscrew from you and screw onto the other.
I got the new distributor today, but it doesn't exactly match up to what I have.
Number on the box matches what I ordered, but the number on the distributor reads 12127-D when I ordered a 12127-G.
They sent a dual vac when I have a single. Is that a big deal? Can I either swap cans or just plug one?
12127-D is the basic number (12127) and suffix (D). What is the prefix? I cannot tell you what it's for without the complete ID engineering number.
It cannot be C8TF-12127-D, cuz that's a 300 I-6 dizzy. This dizzy is too long to be for an I-6. If it's C7TF-12127-D = 1964/72 F500/700 330 2V M/D FT engine.
There are more prefixes with 12127-D in the truck parts catalog and a lot more in the car parts catalog, but I'm not gonna list them all, cuz that would take hours.
Dizzy obviously mis-boxed, what's the part number on the box, C8TZ-12127-GX ?
With or without the X .. this is a REMANUFACTURED (rebuilt) distributor, not new.
I kinda suspected it would be, after you said you only paid 75 bucks for it.
See that label? Read what it sez. I don't need to read it cuz the same label was used by all authorized FoMoCo rebuilders.
Why not just press the pin out of the gear in both and swap shafts? If the hole is elongated in the original shaft and that's the only problem then it might be worth a shot. Or return that dizzy if you can find just the shaft. Might save a few coins.