1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody 1961, 1962 and 1963 Ford F100 Unibody trucks

62 Unibody - Just Got it - have a question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-18-2012, 09:22 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
62 Unibody - Just Got it - have a question

I just picked up a 62 longbed unibody 1/2 ton, V8 292 cubic inch, 4 speed stick. The truck is all original except for the wheels. Interior is in great shape with the original radio that still works, and the owners manual in the glove box.




Small amount of rust was found in the front cab supports, not a big deal have fabricated many of those for the 67-72 chevy trucks. Tailgate has a slight bow in it but I have a way to fix that with a hydraulic ram and a little metal work. Body is in excellent shape except for the front drivers side fender will need to be replaced...it is toast. Excellent full chrome grill and headlight buckets.




The truck has a leaking carburetor around the float bowl. It is the stock Holley carb that came with the truck. The numbers I found on the drivers side of the carb are 12 R 1628B . The carb also has a aluminum tag on the top that has these numbers C2TEMA 1HD .Been searching around and have not seem to have any luck finding those numbers for a rebuild kit. Any help would be great.
 
  #2  
Old 07-22-2012, 03:41 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Well went over Saturday morning to get the uni running ....replaced the fuel pump and a few rubber fuel line, fuel filter. Got it started right up no problem. Notice that the fuel going into the plastic see thru filter looked a little brown. I asked the owner how old the gas was and he said he just put it in and it was fresh gas not a more than a month old.

The only way I could get it to start was to squirt a little fluid into the carb, then it would fire right up. Still did not like the brown colored fuel so i drain it out and put in another 4 gallons. Went home for the day and planned on returning Sunday morning with my son to pick it up.

I jumped in the truck tried to see if it would start on its own....no go. Popped open the hood and removed the oil bath air cleaner, gave it a little squirt and it fired right up. Then I let it sit for a few minutes running to let the old uni warm up. Jumped in and backed out of the drive which was on a high incline, once in the street that was level it died. Jumped out gave it a squirt and down the road we went.

I only got around the block and about a 1/4 mile down the road and it died. Try a few different items ....could get it started no problem, just would die as I tried to give it gas and move on.

Here is where I started the trouble shooting by process of elimination.
  1. Removed the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump, turned it over and really not much was coming out
  2. Suspected that there was a line that might be clogged up or the tank feed tube might have a problem with blockage.
  3. Got under the trunk and tried to undo the gas line to see if it was flowing...could not get it lose.
  4. Then we towed it back to previous owners home removed the gas tank and the fuel pump all the way up to the carb.
After I got home with the gas tank I removed the float, and did an look through that opening with a l.e.d. flashlight and found that the tank was really clean inside. So I applied air from my compressor to the pickup tube and it would not allow the air through.


Here is the remedy for this problem, done this before on the 67-72 chevy trucks.


  1. I have a few different bottles that I keep chemicals in for cleaning out my paint gun or when I have to wipe down metal for prepping.
  2. Grabbed the bottle that is label lacquer thinner and tried to squirt some down the pickup tube...let it sit for about five minutes
  3. Then I got a long piece of rigid copper wite and tried feeding it down the tube to free up the dried up lacquered gas which looks like black tar.
  4. Repeated the cycle a few times then its started to free up and come out the bottom of the tube.
  5. Now I applied air and really got quite a bit out that way.....rinse and repeat a few times
  6. Now in the bottom of the tank is some residual tar.....added more lacquer thinner and let it sit for about 30 minutes
  7. Rinsed out with some clean lacquer thinner and then followed up with another rinse with about 3-4 cups of clean gasoline
  8. That did the trick...now all lines are free
Basically the pickup tube had old gas that had lacquered over and turned into tar....lacquer thinner or acetone will break it down quickly and clean up the tank inside of any residue. Back Monday after work to put the gas tank back in and get the truck over to my place.
 
  #3  
Old 07-22-2012, 11:08 PM
kjvforme's Avatar
kjvforme
kjvforme is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Eastern Oregon
Posts: 4,224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Welcome to the FTE and the UNi section. Whats the information of the warranty tag on the glove box lid? I have two 62's one a uni and the other a 4x4.
 
  #4  
Old 07-23-2012, 07:46 AM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Here is a actual picture of stance


Here is a photoshop of the stance

 
  #5  
Old 08-07-2012, 09:15 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Vin plate


Interior plate


Wind wing deflector
 
  #6  
Old 08-07-2012, 09:19 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Finally got the truck home from where I purchased it. I had to tow it home with a tow bar that i bought from Harbour Freight $60. I will get more use out of it since I have a few more projects in storage will need to be towed.

Cold not drive it home due to safety reasons. The truck would start and run just fine but the carb was leaking to much for my safety reasons. I already had one truck fire due to a cracked glass on a fuel filter.

The plan is to remove the carb and rebuild it, reinstall the fuel pump and cleaned out gas tank. Should be good to call after that.
 
  #7  
Old 08-07-2012, 09:30 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Here is the plan going forward:
  • Remove motor and install a 302 for temporary use
  • Rebuild the 292 and dress it for the re-install
  • Fabricate new front cab supports - existing has minor rust
  • Replace front drivers fender or cut and replace top front corner
  • Repair minor rust in rocker steps
  • Repair small rust hole in drivers floor
  • Lower truck with a conservative stance like in photo in previous post
  • mount new tank in rear under frame & fabricate gas fill in bed
  • Cut back side of tailgate to relieve crease- rework & straighten
  • Love the patina not sure on repaint yet
  • Will repaint interior floor , Raptor line it then cover with heat sheild and new rubber mat
  • Possible redo seat - all though it is in great shape

I am sure the list will grow or change over time as they always do. I am learning more about the Fords now since most of knowledge comes from the 67-72 Chevy truck era. The nice thing about knowing those trucks will allow some of my talents to spill over in fabrication and repair on the Unibody.
 
  #8  
Old 08-08-2012, 10:02 PM
garbz2's Avatar
garbz2
garbz2 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
You can get the straight axle that low with a good bit of work.



Just plan it out.

Look forward tot he build.

Garbz
 
  #9  
Old 08-09-2012, 09:28 AM
Customcab's Avatar
Customcab
Customcab is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Clarksville,Tn
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
Sounds like a another uni found a good home; looking forward to hearing more about you progress.
I'm in the process of trying to purchase a 62 swb from a guy; and then I can offically become a "Uni member". lol
 
  #10  
Old 08-09-2012, 12:27 PM
arctic y block's Avatar
arctic y block
arctic y block is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Looks like a nice solid Uni. Look in my Album at some of the stuff we did to mine.

It may give ya some more Ideas as to what works.
 
  #11  
Old 08-10-2012, 08:24 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Got the carb off this morning before going to work, tore it down and put it in the soaker. This carb was really stuck together with some bad gas. After work took it out of the soaker and used a bristle brush to finish off the cleaning. I will clean again with brake cleaner and air supply, then start the reassembly. If all goes well it will fire up this time without leaking, if not and the carb is shot I will get a new one if needed.

Saturday morning I will start making templates for cab mounts and floor pad repairs. If all goes well I will be cutting them out , welding and prepping the areas for replacement.

Got a line on a 302 that I might put in so I can drive the truck while I am rebuilding / refreshing the 292.
 
  #12  
Old 08-11-2012, 01:07 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Well this morning I put on the rebuilt carb, installed the gas tank, installed the fuel pump, hooked everything up and it fired with no problem. At first I was getting overflow coming out of the breather tube. Turned the truck off and adjusted it down a little and it now runs like a champ!

Now I will move on to checking brakes and lights and making sure that it is road worthy. Do a little motor maintenance like , oil, oil filter, change out the oil in the oil bath air cleaner and see if plugs need to be replaced. P.O. said they were new so I will check it out as well as the points and condenser.

Sunday i will remove he tailgate and cut a relief on the middle backside to see if I can get the bow out of it. If not i will probably take it all apart and rebuild the entire tailgate. I would rather do that to see if I can salvage it, for now it opens and closes fine it just has a bow in the middle from someone putting something heavy enough to bend it. Pictures will follow.
 
  #13  
Old 08-11-2012, 01:29 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Where is the best place to find a period correct wiring diagram for the 62 Unibody?
 
  #14  
Old 08-11-2012, 03:18 PM
Buzz44's Avatar
Buzz44
Buzz44 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: colbert washington
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
  #15  
Old 08-11-2012, 08:19 PM
landarts's Avatar
landarts
landarts is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Received 26 Likes on 20 Posts
Thanks for the link I will check it out!
 


Quick Reply: 62 Unibody - Just Got it - have a question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:39 AM.