Stereo issue
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
Stereo issue
Hey ya'll,
I've noticed my drivers side front speaker wasn't working, I assume the rear also wasn't, but didn't check. I figured it was just blown. Today I replaced all my speakers and my head unit. Well my left side still wasn't working so I went back through the radio connections and those are all good. I've known I've had an issue with the wire harness that goes to the rear drivers side door. I spliced it back together and tried to fix the broken wires as best I could, this was several months ago and it has been fine.
I went back through and retaped this harness today and found both my drivers speakers to work. A few minutes ago I went out and drove my truck and was happy they were still working. A couple of minutes later I noticed that I wasn't getting anything again.
So my question is, is there anything else to check besides this rear harness? Why would a short in this area affect my stereo? I'd assume the front would at least work, where as the rear wouldn't simply because of it being after the problem area.
Any ideas?
I've noticed my drivers side front speaker wasn't working, I assume the rear also wasn't, but didn't check. I figured it was just blown. Today I replaced all my speakers and my head unit. Well my left side still wasn't working so I went back through the radio connections and those are all good. I've known I've had an issue with the wire harness that goes to the rear drivers side door. I spliced it back together and tried to fix the broken wires as best I could, this was several months ago and it has been fine.
I went back through and retaped this harness today and found both my drivers speakers to work. A few minutes ago I went out and drove my truck and was happy they were still working. A couple of minutes later I noticed that I wasn't getting anything again.
So my question is, is there anything else to check besides this rear harness? Why would a short in this area affect my stereo? I'd assume the front would at least work, where as the rear wouldn't simply because of it being after the problem area.
Any ideas?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
According to Ford shop manual, all trucks got premium speakers, but tape means no premium.
I haven't ever seen an amp in my looking around my pickup either.
I went out this morning and both driver side speakers are working just fine. I still am going to cut the harness in the mid of the sill plate and then inside the rear door and run new wires.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,429
Likes: 5,509
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if you have the 2 flat wire plugs on the back of the radio, it is not a premium sound. if it has one flat and one square plug, it is the premium sound with separate amp behind the dash.
here is a wiring pin-out to determine what style you have.
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.asp
here is a wiring pin-out to determine what style you have.
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.asp
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Do you have an Ohm Meter?
Ohm the wires to check for continuity.
Rarely do speaker wires go bad.
Why the hell are you taping your wiring harness together.
Solder that bitch and get it over with.
Or at least use barrel connectors.
Being a standard style audio, that makes everything easy though, so that's good.
Just set your ohm meter to tone and test your wires.
If you don't have a tone mode, check to see if it moves from infinity.
If it doesn't read resistance, you have a wire break.
Try and not put your fingers on the leads when you do it if you can, it sometimes effects the reading, rarely, but its possible depending on your luck.
Ohm the wires to check for continuity.
Rarely do speaker wires go bad.
Why the hell are you taping your wiring harness together.
Solder that bitch and get it over with.
Or at least use barrel connectors.
Being a standard style audio, that makes everything easy though, so that's good.
Just set your ohm meter to tone and test your wires.
If you don't have a tone mode, check to see if it moves from infinity.
If it doesn't read resistance, you have a wire break.
Try and not put your fingers on the leads when you do it if you can, it sometimes effects the reading, rarely, but its possible depending on your luck.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Do you have an Ohm Meter?
Ohm the wires to check for continuity.
Rarely do speaker wires go bad.
Why the hell are you taping your wiring harness together.
Solder that bitch and get it over with.
Or at least use barrel connectors.
Being a standard style audio, that makes everything easy though, so that's good.
Just set your ohm meter to tone and test your wires.
If you don't have a tone mode, check to see if it moves from infinity.
If it doesn't read resistance, you have a wire break.
Try and not put your fingers on the leads when you do it if you can, it sometimes effects the reading, rarely, but its possible depending on your luck.
Ohm the wires to check for continuity.
Rarely do speaker wires go bad.
Why the hell are you taping your wiring harness together.
Solder that bitch and get it over with.
Or at least use barrel connectors.
Being a standard style audio, that makes everything easy though, so that's good.
Just set your ohm meter to tone and test your wires.
If you don't have a tone mode, check to see if it moves from infinity.
If it doesn't read resistance, you have a wire break.
Try and not put your fingers on the leads when you do it if you can, it sometimes effects the reading, rarely, but its possible depending on your luck.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 40
I used butt connectors and then tape over those and the entire harness as the rubber door boot is haggard as hell.
I thought for testing speakers one used volts, but I guess since I wasn't getting volts I check ohms?
Regardless I had both door panels and was fixing to drop the door and fix the harness there and my speakers started working and worked all day. They sure have a bad habit of working perfect when I get going to fix/diagnose them.
I thought for testing speakers one used volts, but I guess since I wasn't getting volts I check ohms?
Regardless I had both door panels and was fixing to drop the door and fix the harness there and my speakers started working and worked all day. They sure have a bad habit of working perfect when I get going to fix/diagnose them.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Your checking the wire continuity, you use ohm.
Wire has a resistance, you only test volts when your testing for power, and to see how much. =)
To test a speaker you ohm them as well, unless you want to see if they actuate, then apply voltage to them to see if they are froze up.
I bet the issue was/is in your harness behind the radio if you are just twisting the wires and taping them.
Saw so many cars get fixed because of that at my last job.
Wire has a resistance, you only test volts when your testing for power, and to see how much. =)
To test a speaker you ohm them as well, unless you want to see if they actuate, then apply voltage to them to see if they are froze up.
I bet the issue was/is in your harness behind the radio if you are just twisting the wires and taping them.
Saw so many cars get fixed because of that at my last job.
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