99' e250 5.4 ext cargo 283k

just wondering what tools i will need to do this? belt tensioner?(sp) might as well replace the belt. and what alt do i have the 130amp or 95 amp? will a higher amp be better? i do have a 1000w amp for my subs. and 10, 3ft led strips along the top of the inside of the van so you can see when the door opens.

so im almost sure it is the alt. the battery is at 12.66v.
start the van and the batt. is at 12.19v and dropping slowly.
turn off van, batt. climbs back up to 12.66v quicky

 

if the belt isn't recent, may as well. if the tensioner (or other idler pulleys) are the slightest bit questionable, may as well. as you're there, may as well check the water pump for any wiggle in the shaft.

as for which alt you have, hard to guess what it came with except by looking up the VIN, but its likely that you can install either one, so bigger is better, especially with your large sound system.
i would suggest asking the guy at the parts store to put them both on the counter so you can verify that connections are identical between them (i'm sure they would be), but if there's any difference, take both and return the one you don't need. if they're a perfect fit, just go with the 130

 

I figured my 95 cargo had the 95 amp but it had the 130 amp and they were not interchangeable.

 

The 130 amp alternator is installed if you ahve the Class II tow package or rear AC. The rear fan consumes ~30 amps at full tilt. The 130-amp alternators are 'big case' and the 95-amp alternators are 'small-case.'

Its easy to tell the difference.



Mounts and wiring are compatible, but you CANNOT go to a 95 amp from a 130 amp. Your battery will slowly deplete if the rear AC is on or a 7-pin trailer is connected.

 

My 95 doesn't have rear ac or towing and still has the 130 amp and the mounts were different.

 

It could be speced separately by ordering the 'heavy duty' electrical system. Fords computer would also auto-select it for certain applications, and it could easily be installed by the previous owner by clearancing the alternator bracket. Special purpose vans (ambulances, conversions, vans ordered for utility companies, or one of a myriad of other reasons) could have dual alts, etc.

460 equipped vans used the 'pivot' style alternators. 5.0/5.8L used the 't' mount pictured above. 4.9's i THINK used the pivot style mount as well, but i havent seen too many in person. Diesels used 't' mount.

OPs van uses an 'a' mount. Measure the diameter of the alternator. If its 5-1/8th inch is a 95 amp. If its 5-6/8th inch its a 130 amp.

 

My 4.9 130 amp simply has 2 bolts not the pivot style. One bolt hole at 6 o'clock and one at 12 o'clock. The 95 amp has one at 6 o'clock and one at 2 o'clock.

I was surprised that it had the 130 amp since it didn't come with the tow package nor anything else that would require the higher amps from the factory.

 

The 99 has it on top, the case has holes in the face going into the bracket, and a steel strap on the back bolting it on top. I had a 130 amp, so rather than getting another, I went to a shop to get it built, they peaked it out, well above stock, only way to get more amps is a bigger case, I believe it's over 200 now. The shop replaced the front case with one that has slots on the screw holes, so you need not remove the bolts, just loosen them, easier to replace it as you don't struggle lining up the holes for the bolts.
I have an all electric screw driven wheelchair lift, in us my fluke meter reads 35 amps, I also have a Rockford Fosgate 500/2, 800/2, and Jensen 400/4, the RF puts out well over their listed rating, they are the old school ones.
No special tools required, always replace the belt, check your wires while you're at it, especially the one from the battery to the starter, that one is known to fail, replace those crap battery clamps too.

 

how do you adjust the pulley tensioner?

 

You can't adjust it, you put a wrench on it and rotate it off of the belt to allow slack, for removal of the belt, replace in reverse.

 

so to tighten it? does it tighten it self? or do i have to crank it the other way once the belt is back on?

 

ohh yeah it was a 130amp. the other the 95 is tiny

ugghhh wheres this fluid coming from?

Wish I could have made it, had work. Yes I will be in town for his birthday thing.


seems easy enough took the old one in and tested it... it failed all 3 tests.



hope it starts

time for some hot laps around the block.

 

Better be a hose leak or its the one under the intake, requires pulling the engine, or lifting the body for room to strip down to it, leave it to Ford to put a rubber line between the intake and block that feeds off the water pump.

 

These belt tensioners are spring loaded-self adjusting.

They don't just "rotate off" you must fight against considerable spring tension & hold the tensioner pulley back against the spring to R&R the belt.

Some tensioners have a 1/2" square hole to accept a breaker bar, which greatly eases the arm/hand pressure. If you use a wrench/ratchet on bolt head you may find it difficult to fight against the spring tension by yourself, while also wrestling with a new folded belt.

 

well, its in there ran fine all day got a full pallet of ply wood in 3500lbs. runs better now maybe faster........


whats the story with the 95 amp and the 130 amp? i have a ext cargo nothing special but i have the 130amp.