Wow!

Lotsa' goodies!

And no drips!

Yeaaaaaah!

Pop

 

Marv, I certainly admire your enthusiasm!

You might consider adding that o-ring to your o-ring chart.

 

I have some web work to do on another couple of websites, and I'll try to remember to do just that!

Pop

 

Suffering a similar fate - 4 years later my non-serviceable port has sprung a new leak.

In 2008 I found the plug loose and the o-ring in this condition:



I installed the IH kit that time...1842906C92...long plug, 680. Held for 4 years or so until today, when I found oil all over the driveway, valley, pulled hpop...plug loose, o-ring in this condition:



So I'll try the repair again if it will get me another 4 years. Kel - I did your check and the plug does seat flush by hand with no o-ring installed.

Does anyone have the p/n for just the o-ring? (edit: Viton #903 90?) I don't need bob's whole kit or a new plug - just need another o-ring and some more 680.

I'm planning on calling Bob tomorrow or Monday to see if he'll sell it separate.

Also - does anyone have the hpop mounting bolt p/ns? I rounded my passenger bolt on removal (with a 6pt 10mm craftsman socket). had to hammer a 3/8 on to get it out and the bolt is trash. need to replace both.

Thanks!
Paul

 

I don't know the p/ns but the bolts are M8 x 1.25. Hopefully you can find a flange head the proper length.

 

Looks like most commercial M8x1.25 10.9 flange heads are 13mm.

Hopefully the dealer can source me some replacements...

 

Have you tried Fastenal. I doubt you need grade 10.9. 8.8 or 8 would be sufficient.

 

Robin, Robin, Robin!

Where's that ol' "overkill" spirit?

Pop

 

Fly, meet hammer.

Stewart

 

Thanks for the tip. I did indeed check fastenal to no avail, as well as mcmaster. All are 13mm heads which I anticipate wouldn't fit on the HPOP's landings.

13mm head for a M8 bolt appears pretty standard. 10mm is standard for M6. So thanks, Ford.

The OEM bolts I removed are 10.9...which is roughly grade 8 equivalent. 10.9 is the metric rating while 8 is the SAE rating.

 

McMaster has the o-rings. You might also consider using an Allen head screw to get the narrow profile needed, as long as you have an Allen driver to fit your torque wrench. The Allen heads in that category on McMaster are all 12.9, it appears, so definitely strong enough.

 

What is the o-ring? I believe you said you used a Viton #903 90 durometer? And it's holding up?

 

Alright, not to highjack this thread on the bolt topic, but as near as I can tell they are:

Passenger: **TZ-9N517-C - this is a M8 x 50mm. edit: I *think* it has been superceded by W300010 - can anyone confirm that W300010 is a M8x1.25x50mm 10mm head hex flange bolt?

Driver: **TZ-9N517-B - this is a M8 x 70mm. looks like it is $3.40. I believe this one has been superseded by **3z-9n517-AA. Still $3.40. Can anyone confirm that **3z-9n517-AA is a M8x12.5x70mm 10mm head hex flange bolt?

 

Pretty much faded out after all I have spent on truck mods.
Haven't even put a winch on the Jeep.
I'm getting old, lazy and broke.
Well, maybe not broke, but trying to avoid it.

 

Yes, -903 Viton shore 90A from McMaster. It is holding up fine so far, but only 2300 miles since the change, so not exactly a long-term test.

A couple things I did with the latest replacement: First of all, clean clean clean with acetone, and made sure it was thoroughly dry and there were no fibers or any other foreign objects from shop towels or q-tips.

Secondly, I oriented the pump so that the plug was facing upwards, and kept it that way while the Loctite was curing, so that any residual oil couldn't run down in there and foul things up. You may recall from my initial failure described in this thread that after the o-ring blew, I could turn the plug very easily, despite the Loctite. My theory is that I didn't pay any attention first time around to the possibility of oil fouling the process.

The third thing I did, you may or may not have the ability to do, but at work we have a "burn-in room", basically a closet, that we keep at 125 degrees F. I put the pump in there for a couple days, again with the plug oriented upward (can you tell that I never wanted to do this job again?) You might be able to replicate this with a heatlamp or something, certainly not essential, but if you can do something like that it can only help with the Loctite cure.

Good luck with the job.