View Poll Results: F250 7.3L w/150K VS F250 6.0L w/50K
7.3L
7
36.84%
6.0L
9
47.37%
neither
3
15.79%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll
Which way to go??
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Which way to go??
PLEASE HELP!!!
I am looking to buy a used diesel to tow a 16' Hallmark trailer full of cookies daily about 20K miles a year. It has to last me at least 10 years at that rate. My question is which of the following would you purchase (if any):
Both choices are about $15K.
2002 F250 7.3L Lariat Crew W/150K miles. It has the black/chrome Moto Metal 20inch rims with 305/50 R20 Goodyear Eagle GT II tires. These tires and bi storm shocks are new. Also has HyperTech Power Programmer stage III, K&N Full air intake, 5" Bulldog down tube/full 5" exhaust and new injectors. The truck recently got a brand new radiator, water pump, serpentine belt, new turbo intake and new turbo couplings. Body/interior in great shape.
OR
2004 F250 6.0L Supercab XLT W/50K miles. Body/interior in great shape.
I am looking to buy a used diesel to tow a 16' Hallmark trailer full of cookies daily about 20K miles a year. It has to last me at least 10 years at that rate. My question is which of the following would you purchase (if any):
Both choices are about $15K.
2002 F250 7.3L Lariat Crew W/150K miles. It has the black/chrome Moto Metal 20inch rims with 305/50 R20 Goodyear Eagle GT II tires. These tires and bi storm shocks are new. Also has HyperTech Power Programmer stage III, K&N Full air intake, 5" Bulldog down tube/full 5" exhaust and new injectors. The truck recently got a brand new radiator, water pump, serpentine belt, new turbo intake and new turbo couplings. Body/interior in great shape.
OR
2004 F250 6.0L Supercab XLT W/50K miles. Body/interior in great shape.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,514
Likes: 5,567
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
while i love the 7.3, i would get the 6.0 truck without a seconds thought.
the tuner and K&N air filter scare me, and those tires will cost you an arm and a leg to replace.
the tuner and K&N air filter scare me, and those tires will cost you an arm and a leg to replace.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4
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I am not an "engine" person. So not sure how to check out the engine before purchasing from private party. Been reading through different forums on internet about the 6.0 and 7.3. Nothing negative about the 7.3. Greatest diesel ever is what it sounds like. Everything negative about the 6.0. Comments about getting rid of it before 100K warr. is up. Hoping all these engine buffs can give me a lot of feedback.
9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
The water pump on a 7.3L is known to go out, usually around 150k. But there is no reason to replace the radiator and everything else if there was no problem. Usually if those are replaced it was a) by a shop that convinced the owner he needed repairs that didnt need to be done or b) he didnt maintain the SCAs of the coolant. When you dont maintain the SCAs of the coolant it can cause cavitation and ruin the parts in the cooling system.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
I agree with this. My 00 7.3 excursion didnt need injectors untill 270,000 miles. The water pump and radiator were recently replaced by the PO. The K&N is also a red flag to me as they let un-filterd air into the turbo.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2012
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If I were to find a 7.3 without any modifications and 100K, would you still go with the 45k 6.0? Are most 6.0's good or bad? I just can't afford the down time of fixing problems when I have to have the truck for my bread and butter.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 25
From: Panama City, FL
If the k&n is the whole system and not the drop in in the oem box then you should be fine with it. If nothing has been done to the 6.0 then I would get the 7.3. IMO I think the 6.0 with give you problems later on with it not being bullet proof, like head gaskets, egr, oil cooler.
9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
Go with the 6.0. Expect to do some modifications to bullet proof it, but the 6.0 is a great motor. Once you drive a 6.0 you don't wanna go back. They do need a little work to be solid, but they are way more powerful than a 7.3, they have a much better trans, and in this case 1/3 the miles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 26
From: Mesa AZ
Based on my own personal experience.....If you expect 10 more years of service, then I would not recommend the 6.0 liter unless you like replacing engines. Our last 6.0 engine failure was a dropped lifter in #8....no amount of "bullet proofing" will avoid that sort of failure. So far to date, our work fleet has had five 6.0 engine failures....our primary wholesale vendor has gone through 4 engines. Our freight contractor has blown up two engines and I have 6 friends who have owned the 6.0 and had very bad experiences.
If you want reliability then the 7.3 can't be beat. Period. We have 17 in our fleet and they are still getting the job done every single day. Some trucks pull double shifts and don't seem to mind at all.
There is nothing wrong with the K&N filter, especially the full kit. Check the 7.3 for blow by and make sure the turbo wheel isn't damaged.
Overdosing on SCA can cause a water pump to fail early and might clog the radiator with drop out so you might want to be on the lookout for that as well.
A crew cab is much more useful than extra cab as well. To me it is a no brainer...7.3 and don't look back.
If you want reliability then the 7.3 can't be beat. Period. We have 17 in our fleet and they are still getting the job done every single day. Some trucks pull double shifts and don't seem to mind at all.
There is nothing wrong with the K&N filter, especially the full kit. Check the 7.3 for blow by and make sure the turbo wheel isn't damaged.
Overdosing on SCA can cause a water pump to fail early and might clog the radiator with drop out so you might want to be on the lookout for that as well.
A crew cab is much more useful than extra cab as well. To me it is a no brainer...7.3 and don't look back.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
Likes: 1,678
From: Stephensville WI
You do not need a diesel engine to pull a 16 foot trailer. Any fuel savings will be lost in higher maintenance costs.
I recommend any gas engine, 2005 and newer (for the better transmission). 4.10 differential gearing will make the tow a little easier, but 3.73 gears will work also. Stay away from lifts, wide tires and flashy wheels. None of those items help you tow.
I recommend any gas engine, 2005 and newer (for the better transmission). 4.10 differential gearing will make the tow a little easier, but 3.73 gears will work also. Stay away from lifts, wide tires and flashy wheels. None of those items help you tow.