Liftgate cable fix??
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New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 23
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Liftgate cable fix??
My Expy has both cables on the liftgate (glass and door) in decent shape but the anchors are broken. I found this video of a man that immobilizes his cable ends with zipties and I'm wondering if that might be a better option than forking over $50+ for a cable just a few inches long.
Might be good as a band-aid, but this truck is $40-ing me to death so I'd rather not be helping pay Ford's alimony.
Ford Expedition Lift Gate Repair 1997 - 2000 Screw Ford and their 60 bucks! 15 cent zip tie works - YouTube
Might be good as a band-aid, but this truck is $40-ing me to death so I'd rather not be helping pay Ford's alimony.
Ford Expedition Lift Gate Repair 1997 - 2000 Screw Ford and their 60 bucks! 15 cent zip tie works - YouTube
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,316
Likes: 5,127
From: 0,0,1
If it so happens that the cable itself broke and if you want something more durable than a wire-tie go down to your local bicycle shop and buy a replacement cable. Just the steel insert, not the outer sheath. Then go to your local hardware store for a decent cable crimp.
Slipped the new cable into the old newly oiled sheath, and then installed the crimp at the correct length, cut off the excess cable and viola you're done.
1 cable insert - $5
1 cable crimp - $0.43
Slipped the new cable into the old newly oiled sheath, and then installed the crimp at the correct length, cut off the excess cable and viola you're done.
1 cable insert - $5
1 cable crimp - $0.43
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 58
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I took some 2 part plumber epoxy and built up on the ends after removing the old. I then took a saw saw blade for cutting wood (wood cutting blades are wide, however a small file or hack saw blade will do) and cut a slot (by hand not in the saw saw) and file the new part down as to fit.
Both of mine had a small plastic tube going around the cable that I was able to pull out as to keep the cable clear of the epoxy. If the plastic tube was not there I thought of splitting some insulation off of some wire and putting it over the cable
It is OK if the build up is larger than the old on the out side of the latch or pull...You only have to file it where it will fit in between the metal and cut a slot just large enough to slide in
After breaking one end out of 4 I then instead of cutting the slot 360° around I just cut down 2 sides....it worked great
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/e...l#.UHVGElFNiSk
Both of mine had a small plastic tube going around the cable that I was able to pull out as to keep the cable clear of the epoxy. If the plastic tube was not there I thought of splitting some insulation off of some wire and putting it over the cable
It is OK if the build up is larger than the old on the out side of the latch or pull...You only have to file it where it will fit in between the metal and cut a slot just large enough to slide in
After breaking one end out of 4 I then instead of cutting the slot 360° around I just cut down 2 sides....it worked great
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/e...l#.UHVGElFNiSk
New User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
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From: Orlando, FL
I know I'm late to the party but my cable ends are broken and I saw this and was wanting a second opinion.
http://www.okmarketplace.com/Rear-Do...4-1B3A-Nav.htm
http://www.okmarketplace.com/Rear-Do...4-1B3A-Nav.htm
Trailering
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 16
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I did the zip tie thing. It lasted a couple years. I just bought the prosthetic ends featured in this video and installed them. They are tremendous. Took some doing to get them in, etc., but it's better than new now.
New User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2
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In my case the cable came completely out of the latch.
This video (
) showed me how to get the door open and repair the cable, but it stops short of reinstalling it. Where exactly does the cable go? Since the cable has little ***** on each end, I assume there are two socket-like receptacles somewhere, but I can't see them.
I'm talking about the one for the hatch door itself, not the window. Thanks for any tips.
This video (
I'm talking about the one for the hatch door itself, not the window. Thanks for any tips.
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Trailering
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 16
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Will send photo
Luckily, I've not replaced my back panel because I'm trying to figure out why my rear wiper doesn't work. I'll try to snap a photo or two for you tonight.
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Trailering
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Door/Window Actuator
Actuator from Below
Above Latch
First shot is the mechanism inside door and behind the handle that opens the door and window. The silver thing on the right is the prosthetic cable end I installed just like the guy in your video. I zip-tied it into its cradle just to make sure it didn't come loose.
The second shot shows the same mechanism from below. If you look just inside the blue paint at bottom left, you can see the prosthetic cable end. In the dead center of the photo behind the gold metal you can see a little arm with a slot in it. That slot is what catches the ball on the end of the cable.
The third shot is the latch at the bottom of the door. You can see the other prosthetic cable end at the bottom right sitting in its cradle. There is a similar slotted arm to its left that catches the ball at that end of the cable.
The cable runs inside the door body. Good luck. I hope this helps.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,316
Likes: 5,127
From: 0,0,1
Here is the link to the product that was posted on the youtube page:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251928585356
But they're about 5 bucks cheaper here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221754934910
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251928585356
But they're about 5 bucks cheaper here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221754934910
