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Big Help Needed, No Start

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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #1  
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Big Help Needed, No Start

Hello all. Started up the truck this morning to take the kids to school and she idled like crap for about 20 seconds or so and then cut off. No dark smoke no white smoke. Now, it will crank but will not start up. I have already dc'd the fuel bowl heater in the past and the #22 fuse is alive and well. She has been driving perfectly fine up until this morning, but I just can't figure out what is wrong with her. I changed the oil about a week ago, and ran about 2 quarts low until I had a chance to top it off a few days back. I am going out now to drain the fuel bowl and see if it refills when I crank it (to check the fuel pump I guess?). Any other thoughts on what it could be or what I could check? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and the GPR is only about 2 years old and is hot to the touch after cranking.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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check oil level in upper resivour,tack moving when cranking?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Check fuel pressure
Does the tac move?
Any smoke while cranking?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Okay, little update. I stuck the charger on the battery after draining the fuel bowl, and it started up after a little cranking, maybe 10 seconds or so. When it started, I disconnected the charger and let it idle for a minute or so, it sounded a little rough but it wasn't chugging or anything. Then when I got in and put it into gear and tried to drive, it started chugging, rpm's dropped and it died again. Will not restart (without charger) just cranks.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:44 PM
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Put a volt meter on the batteries and have someone watch the voltage while you crank it. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts while you're cranking, the PCM won't fire the injectors. Even if the engine is turning over at a seemingly decent speed, the voltage will be too low to allow the injectors to fire, so it won't start.

When you got it to start did the battery light stay lit? I am wondering if you don't have a bad connection at the alternator (the single big wire is especially notorious for doing this) and it isn't charging, which drains the battery to below 10.5 volts and it dies. Make sense?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:52 PM
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Yeah, makes sense Nate, unfortunately I'm home alone. I don't remember seeing the battery light on when it was running. The fuel bowl did not refill, btw, which would make me think it's bad, but there is nothing in the valley, nice and dry. The tak is moving when it cranks, I cannot check fuel pressure as my gauge does not show while cranking.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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Did the battery light stay on when you had it running?

I would put the charger back on it (or jump it) then see if you can get it to fire again. I am in a similar position, and probably buying batteries this week. There goes a couple hundred bucks that could have been used for mods...
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:16 PM
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I have it on the charger right now, although it seems to read at 10+ amps as it is. Is it a non-issue right now that the fuel bowl did not refill after idling for more than a minute? Here is a video I just shot, maybe this will help.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/982ufU2XKPQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by thebig350
Yeah, makes sense Nate, unfortunately I'm home alone. I don't remember seeing the battery light on when it was running. The fuel bowl did not refill, btw, which would make me think it's bad, but there is nothing in the valley, nice and dry. The tak is moving when it cranks, I cannot check fuel pressure as my gauge does not show while cranking.
That make me suppose that your fuel pump is bad. IDK.
Also, is your starter spinning as it should?

 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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As far as I know the starter is working fine. You can hear in the video that it is cranking, it just does not seem to be turning over and starting. Any idea of how long it takes for the fuel bowl to refill? I suppose it can go bad without it showing, like coming out of the weep hole, right?

Also, now that I think of it, I have been catching glimpses of the battery light coming on for a few seconds then turning off for about the last week or so, just real faintly. One of them is new, replaced about 3 weeks ago, the other is about 3 years old and when they tested it they said it was fine. Maybe I should have them retest it?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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check fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel bowl...hth
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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No start

The first item you should check would be ignition voltage,also need to confirm 100% if fuel is present,check the timing,it did sound like a rough attempt when it was turning over.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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^^2X.

I thing you have a fuel issue based upon the way it tries to start but won't catch. When the injectors aren't firing it just cranks and you never get a "pop" out of it like you're hearing when it is trying to start. That sounds to me like a fuel issue. try opening the fuel bowl up, filling it about 1/3 the way with fuel, putting the filter back in and then crank it. If the bowl isn't re-filling you have a fuel issue of some kind.

Have you tried switching tanks?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BigRodsAuto
The first item you should check would be ignition voltage,also need to confirm 100% if fuel is present,check the timing,it did sound like a rough attempt when it was turning over.
By ignition voltage I assume you mean cranking voltage (as was suggested already). Timing is set by the PCM as these are 100% electronically controlled so there is nothing to check there.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Just got back from O'Reilly's, both batteries are good. I can't check the cranking voltage as I have no voltmeter (BIL broke it and hasn't replaced it yet). The fuel bowl has not refilled with fuel after I drained it the first time, and I have been cranking on it plenty. I can't switch to my other tank because my other tank has an unresolved clog/issue with it.
 
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