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Since it is so cold today, I am staying inside. I was watching Rick's Restoration on the History Channel today. They had a guy come there to blast some big parts (they were restoring that playground slide shaped like a moon rocket). The guy used dry ice, no dust, no grit, the dry ice evaporates,.... not a cheap operation I am sure for the DIYer.
I'm looking at this to blast my truck, but just curious as to using sand. I've heard the sand can cause warpage, and will tear up seals, bushings, etc. Since this is using water to push the sand, so I still have to worry about that?
I'm looking at this to blast my truck, but just curious as to using sand. I've heard the sand can cause warpage, and will tear up seals, bushings, etc. Since this is using water to push the sand, so I still have to worry about that?
Short answer, yes. This will tear up seals, bushing very quickly. You're working with potentially much higher pressures than with air.
Richard,
I have that set up and have used it for years. I have blasted cabs, doors, hoods, etc.. with no problems. You just need to pay attention to what you are doing, blast at angles, keep moving, etc.. It is not sand that warps the panels, it is the heat caused from the friction of the sand (or any abrasive) hitting the surface. By using water as the medium for carrying the sand you are cooling the surface so warping is not that big of issue as long as you use good blasting practices.
As far as seal and bushing damage there is no reason you should be blasting these items with any type of media, they should be removed or at least covered and protected, otherwise you are just doing a half-*** job anyway.
If you want this for cleaning the cab/truck, I say go for it. If you are not familiar with blasting make sure to practice on scrap panels, old garbage cans, anything you can find to get your skills up to speed.
One last good thing about the water blaster is no silica dust to give you cancer, the dust is controlled by the water.
I have that same system Northern sells and it worked great on my fenders. I sprayed on the concrete and let the sand dry then swept it up and screened it for reuse. As was stated you need to dry your parts once your done to prevent flash rust but other than that it's great.
Remi
I have that same system Northern sells and it worked great on my fenders. I sprayed on the concrete and let the sand dry then swept it up and screened it for reuse. As was stated you need to dry your parts once your done to prevent flash rust but other than that it's great.
Remi
Whats the best way to dry the parts, just paper towels or use a leaf blower?
Whats the best way to dry the parts, just paper towels or use a leaf blower?
I used bathroom towels and compressed air. Anything will work as long as you get it dried off. I did have one guy who dried his sheetmetal then sprayed it with cooking spray like pam. Seemed strange to me as you would just have to wash it again to get the grease off but he swore by it. Guess it would help if you had to store it for a bit.
About 10yrs ago I wanted to start a small soda blasting business,,,looked at all the diff machine,MMLJ being one of them,,,everything is way to over priced,,,I ended up piecing together my equipment for around 3000 bucks,,,Armex blaster,cooler, water separator,,,just rented a large tow behind compressor when needed,,closest system was around 15 grand ,,,do your research and u can get it way cheaper,,,,wine will do water also,, just a clip on spray nozzle at the nozzle,,,works great
I had my cab, fenders hood, doors and some other pieces Dustless blasted, I would never ever ever do it it again! What they don't tell you is that all the blasting material turns to a mud like substance in all the nooks and crannies and I personally spent a month, yes a month trying to clean the mess up and to this day, the truck is in primer and occasionally I still see residual crap falling out of nooks and crannies. After I had it done, I mentioned to another guy that does high end restorations and he had the same issue to the point where the vendor kicked back some $$$ to the guy and he also would never use that process again. At least with soda blasting or sand blasting you can vacuum or use air to get rid of it. I suppose for pieces that you have 100% access to clean it'd be ok, but thats about it. Just my opinion
Don
In the Ugly Blaster video from the link above yours, they showed the guys washing the cab out with water and Hold Tight 105 - would that have helped out your situation?
It may have, but the people returned it full of mud. I had mud caked up everywhere it was a disaster. Maybe they were new at it and clueless I don't know other than the result I got back.
Don
Sorry for your experience and I definitely sympathize with your results. But I can tell you this is the exception or at least it is with my company.
Dustless Blaster can mix glass or sand with water and both will leave a wet "residue" behind. My company carries a leaf blower on our truck. After we are done we blow the car out. This can get 90%-95% of the media out of the car. Because you have 72 hours before you have to primer (because of the rust inhibitor), I recommend that you blow it out again before you prime. Maybe blow it out 2 more times. You should be able to get the overwhelming majority of the media out.
Hope this helps and again sorry for your personal story.
Only problem with dustless blasting is that in some ways it can be messier as it will sling mud instead of just dust and have to have rust inhibitor which is expensive. Doesn't do to much different than standard blasting but does keep dust down which is important if your in area with a lot of people
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